Ok, I've done a lot of planning on my project, and I found that I need 600w for a good sounding subwoofer and that anything above that will cause my driver to overexcurt.
How do you know when your amp is outputting exactly 600w?
What exactly is the gain, and what does it do?
Is it like when the gain is all the way up, it will output at the rated RMS wattage? (In this case, it would be 787 watts)???
How do you know when your amp is outputting exactly 600w?
What exactly is the gain, and what does it do?
Is it like when the gain is all the way up, it will output at the rated RMS wattage? (In this case, it would be 787 watts)???
rocko1290 said:
Nothing wrong with having more power than necessary
You could use tones and a measuring device (dmm and dummy load or dmm and clamp ammeter with the sub), but music is very dynamic and whatever measurement you make won't really matter once you start playing music.
It controls how much input voltage (from your headunit) is required to bring the amp to full output
No, often times you can get full power out of the amp with the gain all the way down, provided the signal coming from your headunit is strong enough. Normally the gain never needs to be raised above half, as the preout voltage of most modern headunits is more than strong enough to bring the amp to full output with the gain below that level. I set the gain on my amps so they begin clipping when the headunit volume reaches 31 (so 30 is the last clean setting), and that corresponds to about half gain on the sub amp, less than 1/4 gain on the midbass amp, and minimum gain on the tweeter amp (actually that one needs to be attenuated even further in the headunit to keep it from clipping prematurely, but it doesn't matter because it needs to be attenuated even more so the tweets don't overpower the mids)
Zapco AG750 or the newer Reference 750.2
750RMS @ 4ohms
Not a mono amp but you couldn't ask for much better in terms of SQ and power. Beautiful amps.
And the Alpine displays do not show wattage, and their current displays are IMHO kindof flaky as well. I had a salesman showing off the install of their 1000WRMS amp and he's pounding the tunes and it sounds pretty good, display shows 15.5A being drawn and I say
"Well, either the amp isn't putting out full power or somethings amiss, that's not even 300 watts"
To which the salesguy tells me
"F*** that, it's the 1000W monoblock, it's putting out 1000 Watts of power garunteed"
"Well, voltage times current equals power so if you're amp is pulling only 15.5A worth of power and your voltage is about 14.4V.... you do the math"
The guy just kindof huffed at me and in one way or another told me I don't know anything about how electronics or amps work and that I should just buy the amp. I walked away... I hate dumb salesman.
750RMS @ 4ohms
Not a mono amp but you couldn't ask for much better in terms of SQ and power. Beautiful amps.
And the Alpine displays do not show wattage, and their current displays are IMHO kindof flaky as well. I had a salesman showing off the install of their 1000WRMS amp and he's pounding the tunes and it sounds pretty good, display shows 15.5A being drawn and I say
"Well, either the amp isn't putting out full power or somethings amiss, that's not even 300 watts"
To which the salesguy tells me
"F*** that, it's the 1000W monoblock, it's putting out 1000 Watts of power garunteed"
"Well, voltage times current equals power so if you're amp is pulling only 15.5A worth of power and your voltage is about 14.4V.... you do the math"
The guy just kindof huffed at me and in one way or another told me I don't know anything about how electronics or amps work and that I should just buy the amp. I walked away... I hate dumb salesman.
As far as sound quality out of a D class amplifier I've heard they are one of the best amps out there.
I also own one that I picked up from an auction sale, used it for awhile and it sounded really good IMHO. I usually run (2) twin 600RMS Alpine class A/B amplifiers to my subs (one amp per sub) but when I bought this one I thought I would try it out and replaced the 2 amps with just this 1, it sounded very similar I was suprised. I wasn't expecting the same level of SQ from the amplifier but it was very good, if I didn't know my system so well I probably wouldn't have even noticed the amps were changed... except for maybe my lights not dimming as much
I wouldn't hesitate to recomend that MRD-M1005 to you
*Edit* Another nice thing for you is the fact you'll be running it at 4ohms, the amp is stable to 2ohms so you have flexability for later installs and also the fact the amp won't be worked hard witch arguably could result in a greater lifespan.
I also own one that I picked up from an auction sale, used it for awhile and it sounded really good IMHO. I usually run (2) twin 600RMS Alpine class A/B amplifiers to my subs (one amp per sub) but when I bought this one I thought I would try it out and replaced the 2 amps with just this 1, it sounded very similar I was suprised. I wasn't expecting the same level of SQ from the amplifier but it was very good, if I didn't know my system so well I probably wouldn't have even noticed the amps were changed... except for maybe my lights not dimming as much
I wouldn't hesitate to recomend that MRD-M1005 to you
*Edit* Another nice thing for you is the fact you'll be running it at 4ohms, the amp is stable to 2ohms so you have flexability for later installs and also the fact the amp won't be worked hard witch arguably could result in a greater lifespan.
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