you can't change the value of your speaker. if your looking to make a 4 ohm driver into a 8 ohm driver just add a 4 ohm resistor in series with it. but since it seems you looking to use this speaker for car audio that doesn't make much sence. btw an 8 ohm speaker will work just fine in your car it will just draw half the power.
Thanks for the reply Chrisr.
I think there is a misundertsanding of my intention. Sorry for my misleading question.
My current speaker is rated 8ohms. I am using a car audio amp thats rated st 4ohms to power it. Hence, it's only drawing half the power.
I would like to make full use of the power, by tricking the amp to see the speaker as a 4ohm load instead of 8ohms.
Can I add something along the speaker wire (I am guessing like a cap, since you mentioned resistor earlier) and what value should the cap be?
I might be wrong, your your help is very much appreciated. Thanks.
I think there is a misundertsanding of my intention. Sorry for my misleading question.
My current speaker is rated 8ohms. I am using a car audio amp thats rated st 4ohms to power it. Hence, it's only drawing half the power.
I would like to make full use of the power, by tricking the amp to see the speaker as a 4ohm load instead of 8ohms.
Can I add something along the speaker wire (I am guessing like a cap, since you mentioned resistor earlier) and what value should the cap be?
I might be wrong, your your help is very much appreciated. Thanks.
escuse me
may i offer a suggestion for full power tricking the amp into thinking it is attached to a 4ohm speaker, try adding an 8 ohm
power resistor in parrallel with the speaker the power through
the resistror wont translate into sound though,amp tricked!
for sound however replace the resistor with a second 8ohm
speaker tricked again with sound! good huh?
may i offer a suggestion for full power tricking the amp into thinking it is attached to a 4ohm speaker, try adding an 8 ohm
power resistor in parrallel with the speaker the power through
the resistror wont translate into sound though,amp tricked!
for sound however replace the resistor with a second 8ohm
speaker tricked again with sound! good huh?
When you double the power on a speaker you only increase by three decibels, which is considered to be hte smallest amount the human ear can easily hear the difference in. Also if you take a look at impedance graphs of speakers, your 4 ohm speakers, may only be 4 ohms for a small range usually in the midband for a few thousand hertz, and the rest of time upwards of 8-100ohms.
If you are going for pure SPL just get a second woofer in parallel will give you a 4 ohm load.
If you are going for pure SPL just get a second woofer in parallel will give you a 4 ohm load.
The driver is a Scanspeak 18W/5535 7" mid. Not sure if it's 8ohms, as I can't find it on www.d-s-t.com
The nearest one I could see is 18W/8535 which is 8 ohms.
The reason is more for level matching between tweeter (Scanspeak 2904/6000) and mid. The mids don't seem to play loud enough. That's why. Both mid and tweeter is powered by a 60W x 4channel amp.
The nearest one I could see is 18W/8535 which is 8 ohms.
The reason is more for level matching between tweeter (Scanspeak 2904/6000) and mid. The mids don't seem to play loud enough. That's why. Both mid and tweeter is powered by a 60W x 4channel amp.
bjackson,
Wow! you are fast!
O.K. here's the full details of my ICE system,
HU- Alpine 7998R
AMPS- Sony SD 22X (for subs) & Sony SD 46 (for front stage)
2 x 200W RMS 4 x 60W RMS
Speakers- Tweeter Scanspeak 2904/6000
Mid Scanspeak 18W5535
Sub CDT MS 100, one pair 10".
The system is configured to run as active, High-Mid-Low. X-overs are used in the HU built-ins, as are the EQs(5 band parametric) and Time Alignment.
While I can use the output level of the HU to compensate for level matching, it did not turn out as well as I liked. I do not know how to tell you in writing how it sounds, but here's a try.
The level of sound coming from the mids while is suficient as matching the tweeters, does not provide the same energy or should I say "kick" enough to be coherent to the music as whole.
I was wondering if tricking the amp loads by lowering the ohm value of the mids would do it, and hence my original posting.
This should really be in the car audio section, but since this is the loudspeaker section of the forum, I'd thought I'd be more specific.
Just trying to see if there's another way, as I try to use what 've got. I hope you understand.
Thanks for looking and any more ideas are welcome.
Wow! you are fast!
O.K. here's the full details of my ICE system,
HU- Alpine 7998R
AMPS- Sony SD 22X (for subs) & Sony SD 46 (for front stage)
2 x 200W RMS 4 x 60W RMS
Speakers- Tweeter Scanspeak 2904/6000
Mid Scanspeak 18W5535
Sub CDT MS 100, one pair 10".
The system is configured to run as active, High-Mid-Low. X-overs are used in the HU built-ins, as are the EQs(5 band parametric) and Time Alignment.
While I can use the output level of the HU to compensate for level matching, it did not turn out as well as I liked. I do not know how to tell you in writing how it sounds, but here's a try.
The level of sound coming from the mids while is suficient as matching the tweeters, does not provide the same energy or should I say "kick" enough to be coherent to the music as whole.
I was wondering if tricking the amp loads by lowering the ohm value of the mids would do it, and hence my original posting.
This should really be in the car audio section, but since this is the loudspeaker section of the forum, I'd thought I'd be more specific.
Just trying to see if there's another way, as I try to use what 've got. I hope you understand.
Thanks for looking and any more ideas are welcome.
I think that you are experiancing bad car acoustics. You might want to try using the EQ, especially with a calibration microphone. You can pick up a Behringer ECM8000 mic for 30-40 and a preamp for 50-60 and use a computer RTA....
You gotta correct for car acoustics though. Best bet would be to use a Behringer DCX or DEQ 2496 but those are expensive (300 or so). Well worth it for such nice drivers though...
You gotta correct for car acoustics though. Best bet would be to use a Behringer DCX or DEQ 2496 but those are expensive (300 or so). Well worth it for such nice drivers though...
for current scan drivers, the first 2 letters are the driver size in cm. 18W = 18 cm woofer (vs 18m would be 18 cm midrange). The next number is nominal impedance (15W/4531 is 4 ohm, 15W/8531 is 8 ohm). The rest of the numbers have meaning as well but I don't remember them by heart. There is a spec sheet on the d-s-t web site that has that information. Anyway if the 18W/5535 is similar to current drivers (which it may not be) then the nominal impedance is 5 ohms.
Your best bet is to buy a cheap 3-way outboard crossover with independent level controls and possibly a small 25-50W amp for your tweets, then bridge the 4x60 amp for the mids.
Your best bet is to buy a cheap 3-way outboard crossover with independent level controls and possibly a small 25-50W amp for your tweets, then bridge the 4x60 amp for the mids.
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