Scan Speak 18W/4531G00

[A183RT]

Hi....
I have a question about building a new speaker I have a pair of scan speak speaker 18W/4531G00. I'm planning to build a speaker box for them. For the tweeters, I haven't decided yet. Any suggestion for the tweeters?
Also does anybody have experience in using this drivers??
I also really appreciate if anybody can inform me about the dimension for the box of these drivers
Thank you very much


Albert

 

[Geenius]

I used them in this project: Optimo . They will also work with the Vifa XT25TG30-04

 

[kamppi]

Optimo looks very interesting. SS ring radiator is quite expensive, but you mentioned that Optimo will work with XT25TG30-04 as well. SS ringradiator is 3 db more sensitive than Vifa ring. Do I need to do any modifications into the crossover, if I want to use Vifa ringradiator instead of SS ringradiator?

 

[cougarz]

Here is a variation of ULTIMO speakers, called PENULTMO with vifa xt tweeter

http://www.audiokit.it/ITAENG/KitDiffusori/ScanAudiocomp/Ultimo/Ultimo.htm

He says just to remove some component from crossover and place a 0.9 mm spacer between original drawing and xt tweeter to make upgrade possible in the future
Bye
Paolo (ITALY)

 

[Geenius]

Optimo looks very interesting. SS ring radiator is quite expensive, but you mentioned that Optimo will work with XT25TG30-04 as well. SS ringradiator is 3 db more sensitive than Vifa ring. Do I need to do any modifications into the crossover, if I want to use Vifa ringradiator instead of SS ringradiator?

Here's the new url:

Optimo

All that needs to be changed is resistor R1 to something smaller like 1 ohm - its also a matter of taste.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[kamppi]

Thank you for the answers

I am not really familiar with series cross overs, but now I have learned something. I have understood that the bass what SS 18W-4531G00 can produce is quite good and now it is time to try this driver.

 

[azeroth12]

I know this is a way old thread but speakers don't change much. I'm in the middle of building a large full range speaker. Currently I'm working on the tweeter/midbass cab. It will eventually be mated to a larger cabinet with an as of yet choosen 12" and 15" (much like the passlabs sr1's in design. Tony's Galactica in sound? maybe?) Currently im looking at the SS 9700's matched with the 18W/4531G00 in a 22liter cabinet (separate from the woofer cabinet.) This being my first project I was wondering if using Gee's crossover above would be a good place to start. I figure I can test it out full range until I get the bass portion build and then work out the high pass later. Any ideas suggestions? I know it's an ambitious project for a first timer but so far its coming along really well.

 

[filipemacedo]

Hi, take a look at these projects, they may give you some usefull ideas:

Jensen-

SP95-98

I also built a large full-range, using SS D2905/9700+15W4531G in one cabinet, and a 26W8861T in another. Picture attached. The 9700 is anyway a pretty good tweeter, but I would like to upgrade to SS ring radiator (R2904/7000). And yes, it is a bit wee expensive...

Regards,

 

[azeroth12]

First off, that's a great looking set of speakers you have there! For a first time project I'm trying to keep the price somewhat sensible so I settled on the 9700 4eems like a good mid-high quality driver. I actually have spent a lot of time checking out the Jenson, used it's volume and port calculations for my cab. It uses the 8ohm driver though with the 9900 and I'm just not sure about that 120mf cap being used. There are many designs that are close to mine but the crossovers vary dramatically. I'm just not sure where to start. Was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. Maybe something similar to the optimo above (compinsated for the tweet resistance and sensitivity?) Or just a simple 1st order at 2500-2700 for starters? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[filipemacedo]

Thanks!
For a first project, I’d choose something rather simple, and “understandable”! I used a low-Q 2nd order + L-pad for the tweeter (9700), and a first-order + impedance compensation for the 15W, and the result was great (both objective and subjective qualities). I believe the result for the 18W would be quite similar. I’m not using any high-pass for the 15W – I just let it roll-off naturally.

Regarding the bass, it turned out to be a bit trickier, because my room is a bit boomy, and the side-firing, near-the-floor woofer didn’t helped much, although the cabinets are sealed...
However, a low-pass, low-Q 2nd-order + notch filter gave a fair result (crossed at about 120Hz), and I’m now happy with it, although I’m thinking in replacing the 26W for a 12’’ Perless XXLS 835017, and bi-amp it, plus a LT to extend the FR down to 25Hz or so…Let’s see what I can get!

Regards

 

[azeroth12]

Wow, interesting, I don't think I have ever seen anyone let a bandpass driver roll off naturally. Have you ever had your speakers metered? Or is it all by ear? I might try a crossover similar to yours, thanks! Anyone else have any ideas/suggestions?

 

[filipemacedo]

Hi, I already measured it, but the measurements I did are only valid ~250Hz upwards, so I miss the 100 - 150Hz transition region...

Anyway, it sounds good! I'll post a measurement as soon as I can. Anyway, the 15W is a midbass and integrates perfectly with the 26W!

 

[hihopes]

I have had SS 18w8545k's rolling off naturally for12 years. Works great. Currently busy with a version of the Optimo using 18w4531's and SB Acoustics ring tweeters. Still fiddling with stuffing and crossover configurations, but it is a very good speaker system indeed. Using 1st order on tweeters and 2nd order on woofers. Tweeters should in theory have a 3dB pad to match woofs, but 4dB padding is right with the setup I have now. I did not use the version of the optimo as selected by the author. I went for a tapered line instead. It gives a more even FR.

 

[azeroth12]

I think I'm actually going to go with the optimo drivers (instead of the 9700) and cross over but the woofer is going to be in a 22liter ported enclosure (tuned to about 40hz.) I'm not too worried about low end because I still need to build the second enclosure with the 12" and 15" similar to the galactica. Kinda mixing and matching a bunch of ideas here. Hopefully it works out ok. Here are a bunch of build pics if anyone wants to check em out. Speaker Building

 

[Mario Pankov]

Thread is quite old, but if you haven`t started yet ( azeroth ). The 4 ohm version is better suited for sealed cabs, I used them in a 30l sealed cab. Most software suggests 20-22l depending on system Q you prefer, but I find the Revelators to favour a bigger box than the suggested by simulation software. Bass performance is very good for a speaker of this diameter. You can even go with a single mid-bass but expect a sensitivity of under 83db/w as they`ll need a BSC, thus limiting your amp choice. I find them useful up to 2Khz 2nd order. If you want to pair them with the XT25, I find it too harsh when crossed that low and it offers poor high freq. performance, above 12-13Khz ( and I personaly avoid high-order xovers ), perhaps the SB acoustics 1.2" driver might be a better choice ( I`ve not heard it ). Let me know If you want measurements of the SS in sealed cabs.

 

[DrDyna]

Thread is quite old, but if you haven`t started yet ( azeroth ).

Oh, I know, I recently quit Azeroth. I'm getting a lot more done now.

 

[5th element]

Oh, I know, I recently quit Azeroth. I'm getting a lot more done now.

Ain't that the truth.

 

[azeroth12]

Hey

Thanks for the response!

I've actually completed the top portion with the SS drivers. It sounds quite good even with a cookie cutter crossover at 2500. Hoping to start the bottom portion soon. I'm driving them with two emo xpa1's w4s dac2 and premare pre30. My photos up until before gloss. 3

Not sure which drivers for the bottom yet, I'm thinking dual 12" vifas right now

 

[dublin78]

You must chamfer, or bevel the inside of the baffle around the midbass driver. VV. important. It is a pain to do after construction, but I managed to do it with an attachment on an electric drill.

chamfering driver holes