Is speaker blown?

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Powered Behringer sub and obvious distortion displayed even at low levels. No scraping or anything felt pushing cone and meter displays continuity and resistance 6.1ohms over terminals. Did not expect that... Should resistance remain the same as cone is moved or change? It goes kind wonky and all over.

Anything else I can try besides trying another driver in cab/hook this driver up? Nothing readily available. Thanks in advance!
 
Thanks so far!

UPDATE: Tested speaker out of enclosure and do not notice distortion. Tested amp with another sub and do not notice distortion. Only thing weird was one of the driver mounting screws was not properly fastened. Remount driver and test? I have had my fare share of blown speakers and amps going bad but the issue I am having is very mild in comparison but definitely there. Enough that non audio people can tell. Small air leak? Weird.
 
Thanks so far!

UPDATE: Tested speaker out of enclosure and do not notice distortion. Tested amp with another sub and do not notice distortion. Only thing weird was one of the driver mounting screws was not properly fastened. Remount driver and test? I have had my fare share of blown speakers and amps going bad but the issue I am having is very mild in comparison but definitely there. Enough that non audio people can tell. Small air leak? Weird.

Check the driver's suspension to see if there are any holes.
 
I spent like 2 hours trying to remount the driver... The t-nuts kept randomly pulling out. What a PITA. Long story short. Sounds much better. I think there was some air or loose screw or both. Swear I still hear a little something, but made wife and daughter listen and they say I'm nuts. In their defense only sounds off up close and not far away. Thanks guys!
 
Looks like t-nuts has the power to really mess up things. I had my first and unique experience at the project SS15MOD.

Fortunately my T-nuts were not pulling out, I bind them :p but as side effect when the screw is not properly aligned with the t-nut the joint will not be able to fastening, the screw point face will block itself forcing you to unscrew all and start again. Just after finish my project I remember about one common solution often used at vehicle industry, it may help many folks here and for sure I will use in the next project.

To avoid problems with t-nuts we should used screw with special point, it was initially designed to improve automated process, it has a kind of cone, or a big chamfer (if you prefer) that will guide the screw to the proper female thread and auto centering. Below you can find a sketch and a real image about it as example. It ca be found with different heads and different necks and I think it can fix issues related to t-nuts.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Direct image link: https://s17.postimg.org/xb4ut51rz/Screw.png
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Direct image link: https://s17.postimg.org/yq6fhvq0f/P_20180206_155908.jpg
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Direct image link: https://s17.postimg.org/q7wzdkm2n/P_20180206_155919.jpg
 
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