I currently have a morel 12'' ultimo car sub in a 3 cubic foot box driven off a Dayton rack amp that claims 1000 rms at 4 ohms
I cant get the out put I want with this set up(unless I sit in another room in the house LOL)
The amp clips way too easy with that power hungry sub(5" voice coil)
What driver would u guy suggest to use in that size box ?
I cant get the out put I want with this set up(unless I sit in another room in the house LOL)
The amp clips way too easy with that power hungry sub(5" voice coil)
What driver would u guy suggest to use in that size box ?
Hi kirk,
Is this being used as a car sub, HT or music?
Everyone here can recommend their 'pet driver(s)' in 3 cuft but application is everything. Can you post the 'specs'/'tsp' on the morel 12" just to reveal more on what's really going on with this system? And is it a BR or IB? Rgds!
Specs are here http://www.morelhifi.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Ultimo.pdf
Home audio application
Dayton sa1000 amp
ported
I use it for music, but the amp starts to clip or go into protection way before I like it too
It does sound great at lower levels.
Home audio application
Dayton sa1000 amp
ported
I use it for music, but the amp starts to clip or go into protection way before I like it too
It does sound great at lower levels.
Happy new year kirk!
You may want to check with some others here on this as I'm no amplifier expert, however, your statement 'alone' is very telling. Your amplifier is wanting to protect itself from working in unsafe parameters in your set-up. The very first thing that I would do is ohm out your speaker cable methodically e.g., drive your amp w/ no load (speaker cable disconnected) and see if the amp still goes into protect mode. Then run the amp w/ cable only (sub disconnected) and check amp's status. Then I would check the sub's impedance (RE) with an ohm meter (in box from back term plate) and then sub/driver only (meter directly on sub's term connectors). Doing these tests should reveal why the amp is so distressed!
Cheers!
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yea its all been checked, it may just be clipping
the subs sounds great for most music, and when u start to walk away from it starts to get to the level I want (down the hall way or next room)
Its much louder corner loaded but I don't like the sound
Guess I m trying to say I want more up front in my face low end,
Not sure if a new enclosure or driver will solve my problem
the subs sounds great for most music, and when u start to walk away from it starts to get to the level I want (down the hall way or next room)
Its much louder corner loaded but I don't like the sound
Guess I m trying to say I want more up front in my face low end,
Not sure if a new enclosure or driver will solve my problem
FWIW - there are many reports that those Dayton sa1000 amps have never been able to make their rated output wattage, especially driving a 4ohm load....
You can try a couple of things without spending money
1. Since it's in a ported box, make sure the switches on the back of the Dayton sa1000 are set to, Bass Boost=OFF, Subsonic Filter=ON and have a listen - if they where not set this way you may have the answer why the until was going into protect mode.
2. Temporarily close the port(stuff it with something) then make sure the switches Subsonic Filter=ON and then experiment with Bass Boost=OFF and Bass Boost=ON to see if this is better to your liking.
You can try a couple of things without spending money
1. Since it's in a ported box, make sure the switches on the back of the Dayton sa1000 are set to, Bass Boost=OFF, Subsonic Filter=ON and have a listen - if they where not set this way you may have the answer why the until was going into protect mode.
2. Temporarily close the port(stuff it with something) then make sure the switches Subsonic Filter=ON and then experiment with Bass Boost=OFF and Bass Boost=ON to see if this is better to your liking.
I know exactly what you're struggling with... believe me! Getting the bass right is a pain, even when you know that the sub(s) are designed 'right'; much more when you're not sure. What are you using to flatten the sub/room out e.g., graphic, parametric...
Once again, I know just what you are up against! Proper 'sub positioning' can be difficult as each room is unique and will offer it's own challenges. Afaik there are no specific rules regarding this as there are far too many variables that factor into this aspect of Home audio system integration. Corner loading definitely exploits room gain but... "there's no free lunch here either!
Moving the sub away from the walls and floor may be a great way to capitalize on some of that (IN YOUR FACE) transient room response e.g., snap, punch, clarity, articulation and presence... but perhaps at the cost of low-end growl and uhf! A middle ground compromise may be the answer here, but finding just the right positioning can be time consuming... anyone who's gotten it "just right" knows what I mean! One other important factor that hasn't been mentioned yet... "Sealed vs Vented" A sealed sub is much less efficient but (imho), far smoother and more easily adaptable and will generally sound/feel tighter (punchier); something we can all disagree on later at some point lol!
Even if you went out right now and bought ALL NEW sub-woofers, amps and the latest DSP equipment, it wouldn't sound any better (might even sound worst) because you still have to fix the hotspots and dead spots in the room, as well as integrate (position) the equipment, so you'd be back to square one! My suggestion would be... once you're sure that your amp and sub are working as they should; and you sound like you are sure, spend some time moving the sub around, in small increments (couple inches at a time "and then listening from the very same chair") until you start to find that "Sweet spot" in the room! I forgot to ask you about your "speaker damping"... this may factor in at some point. Rgds!
Hi kirk,
I don't mean to take this thread in a different direction; hope this doesn't, but I really do believe that the link that I've posted below will be helpful, and does have much to contribute to this topic. It speaks directly to your comment about corner loading and you 'not liking' the sound: Doubling the cone surface area and adding 1.5 lbs/ cuft poly-fill...WOW!!!!!! Cheers!
I don't mean to take this thread in a different direction; hope this doesn't, but I really do believe that the link that I've posted below will be helpful, and does have much to contribute to this topic. It speaks directly to your comment about corner loading and you 'not liking' the sound: Doubling the cone surface area and adding 1.5 lbs/ cuft poly-fill...WOW!!!!!! Cheers!
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I have been playing with positioning in my room. have it next to couch now,
this sub was always better in a sealed box when in a car but I plugged the port and the out put was almost non existent in my hi fi application.
I would kill for a adire tempest 15 or shiva(shame adire when under)
I think I may try a new driver like a Dayton.
this sub was always better in a sealed box when in a car but I plugged the port and the out put was almost non existent in my hi fi application.
I would kill for a adire tempest 15 or shiva(shame adire when under)
I think I may try a new driver like a Dayton.
I had an Adire Audio 15" Tempest. Definately Great......
my Search tonight was to see if i could find this Sub again.
Found this Website, which is a keeper... ...i first became a member here in 2004 evidently.
So the Tempest is not going to be aquireable.......
Very disappointing
I also have the Parts Express $338 Dayton Audio SA1000 sub amp.
Haven't used it yet..... just got it last week........
Kirk, or anyone, did you ever find a good home audio 15" sub ?
my Search tonight was to see if i could find this Sub again.
Found this Website, which is a keeper... ...i first became a member here in 2004 evidently.
So the Tempest is not going to be aquireable.......
Very disappointing
I also have the Parts Express $338 Dayton Audio SA1000 sub amp.
Haven't used it yet..... just got it last week........
Kirk, or anyone, did you ever find a good home audio 15" sub ?
Check Parts Express. I think they have at least one 15" driver that's nearly identical to the old Tempest driver.
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