I'm building the Pensils/10P's. I have a Decware Zen Clone I built from their schematics using Edcor Iron. My listening room is small 11.6L x 9.5W x 8tall. I only listen at low volumes. Will the two watts be enough for the 10P's at low volume? I like tube SQ but, I can use class D also.
I'm also looking to buy a new preamp & amp. So I'm open to suggestions if the Zen is marginal.
Thanks,
Mark
I'm also looking to buy a new preamp & amp. So I'm open to suggestions if the Zen is marginal.
Thanks,
Mark
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Only you willknow when you fire them up.
With the Edcor iron your amp will be better into higher impedances than the Decware. In a small room at lowlevels it is likely sufficient.
If the <2 W is insufficient you can approximately double that by wiring the EL84 in pentode and apply Scade/RH84 style feedback. That and using all Solen poly caps in the power dupply made big improvements in the SE EL84 journey we started with a Decware clone.
With the Edcor iron your amp will be better into higher impedances than the Decware. In a small room at lowlevels it is likely sufficient.
If the <2 W is insufficient you can approximately double that by wiring the EL84 in pentode and apply Scade/RH84 style feedback. That and using all Solen poly caps in the power dupply made big improvements in the SE EL84 journey we started with a Decware clone.
nice build on the ZenClone - for the size of room described, I think you'll get lots of enjoyment once amp and speakers are fully broken in.
tell us about the barbells?
As to pre-amp - what will the source(s) be? If mostly digital there are some pretty decent (& incredibly convenient) DAC-pre combos to be had - otherwise how about something like the Grounded Grid?
tell us about the barbells?
As to pre-amp - what will the source(s) be? If mostly digital there are some pretty decent (& incredibly convenient) DAC-pre combos to be had - otherwise how about something like the Grounded Grid?
The barbells are for me to get my strength up. 
Really there for the spikes/stands. Not sure I'll use them. Well see after I router the edges.
I built the amp last year. I'm using MLTL's with BetsyK's, alignment by GM/MJK right now. I expect a big improvement in SQ with the 10P's.
I run source direct on the CDP. For my vinyl, I use a CNC phono stage that's battery powered. I haven't tried the system with my PC, Modi dac.
Mark
Here's the phono stage. Made to match amp.
Really there for the spikes/stands. Not sure I'll use them. Well see after I router the edges. I built the amp last year. I'm using MLTL's with BetsyK's, alignment by GM/MJK right now. I expect a big improvement in SQ with the 10P's.
I run source direct on the CDP. For my vinyl, I use a CNC phono stage that's battery powered. I haven't tried the system with my PC, Modi dac.
Mark
Here's the phono stage. Made to match amp.
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One down, one to go. The CNC cut flat pack sure makes for a quick assembly.
Have the 10p's sitting in their shipping boxes burning in. I tried the Zen and it's going to work great. I have a TPA3116 running 24/7 with them now. Gotta save the tubes.
Thanks out to StevenZ for the CNC flat pack and introducing me to the MarkAudio drivers. I should of done this along time ago.
Mark
Have the 10p's sitting in their shipping boxes burning in. I tried the Zen and it's going to work great. I have a TPA3116 running 24/7 with them now. Gotta save the tubes.
Thanks out to StevenZ for the CNC flat pack and introducing me to the MarkAudio drivers. I should of done this along time ago.
Mark
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Now, don't I wish I had access to CNC cut flat packs for the cabinets I put together...
My Alp 10P is breaking in and also trying to build an FH-XL for them - but it's been slow going (no flat pack
).
Mark - by the time all the prep is done to get a paint job that doesn't telegraph the ply edgegrain, wood backed veneer could be faster and cheaper.
Then just clear coat with oil, varnish, sprayed lacquer - your choice.
Of course I say that as I'm not at all a fan of painted enclosures - YMMV.
Then just clear coat with oil, varnish, sprayed lacquer - your choice.
Of course I say that as I'm not at all a fan of painted enclosures - YMMV.
Thanks Chrisb, I'm still thinking on it. I could veneer. That is what I would really like to do. The Duratex is a roll on paint that's like bedliner. It does hide the end grain. It applies direct to bare wood and is tough. I have a few days to think about it. Had to order binding posts etc.
Mark
Mark
As the boxes are already fully assembled, the iron on veneer edge tape would sit as much as 1mm proud of the adjacent panels, and would be hard to trim & clean adhesive seepage on the "inside" edges.
In commercial millwork edge banding of any type is generally applied to panels and trimmed / finished before assembly.
Another alternative would be to chamfer the front edges at 45' and apply a thin strip of solid of either matching or contrasting solid (3M #203 construction grade masking tape is your friend). Use sanding block to get level with front / sides, then give the whole thing a sanding down to at least 220g and apply finishing products of your choice. Saves veneering the whole box, and can look like it was meant to be that way.
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