I am thinking of building a "small" (8") subwoofer mainly for music. The horn designs are somehow appealing (mainly thanks to their efficiency), but I am wondering, how does it compare to a normal ported enclosure, bandpass or even a sealed, both in terms of sound quality and efficiency?
Which will give the deepest response with a given element?
Does the horn enclosure put higher requirements on the element compared to a ported? (Of course, the sealed is the most forgiving).
Which will give the deepest response with a given element?
Does the horn enclosure put higher requirements on the element compared to a ported? (Of course, the sealed is the most forgiving).
Yes, horn designs can be finicky of driver/enclosure parameters. Horn Response is a good aid for designing them. Post up the T/S of the driver and I'm sure someone here will help you along.
It is fun to impress friends by connecting a 1 watt amplifier powered by a 9v transistor radio battery to my tapped horn to show off how much bass it can make, but I use sealed subs in my "serious" music listening systems.
It is fun to impress friends by connecting a 1 watt amplifier powered by a 9v transistor radio battery to my tapped horn to show off how much bass it can make, but I use sealed subs in my "serious" music listening systems.
I have built a ported, a tapped horn and a front loaded pipe (horn with too small throat area) using the same driver.
The ported is about 200 liter, the tapped horn is 400 liter, the "horn" is 600 liter. The ported sounds well for being a ported box, probably because of the driver. The tapped horn sounds ok, louder than the ported but with the same character. The "horn" is a completely different story, it is loud, clear and with a very nice kick.
They all go down to about 30 Hz. A true horn going down to 30 Hz would be about 1500 liters. The ported is useable to 170 Hz, the tapped and the horn to about 80. A true horn would be useable to about 250 Hz.
The ported is about 200 liter, the tapped horn is 400 liter, the "horn" is 600 liter. The ported sounds well for being a ported box, probably because of the driver. The tapped horn sounds ok, louder than the ported but with the same character. The "horn" is a completely different story, it is loud, clear and with a very nice kick.
They all go down to about 30 Hz. A true horn going down to 30 Hz would be about 1500 liters. The ported is useable to 170 Hz, the tapped and the horn to about 80. A true horn would be useable to about 250 Hz.
This is the first,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/224366-jbl-2226-ported-something-i-built-srx-boxes.html
and third,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/224225-jbl-2226h-30-hz-horn-i-built.html
Do those links work ?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/224366-jbl-2226-ported-something-i-built-srx-boxes.html
and third,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/224225-jbl-2226h-30-hz-horn-i-built.html
Do those links work ?
All links works for me in chrome and in internet exporer.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/224366-jbl-2226-ported-something-i-built-srx-boxes.html
HiFiForum.nu - DIY JBL 2226 tapped pipe
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/224225-jbl-2226h-30-hz-horn-i-built.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/224366-jbl-2226-ported-something-i-built-srx-boxes.html
HiFiForum.nu - DIY JBL 2226 tapped pipe
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/224225-jbl-2226h-30-hz-horn-i-built.html
The front loaded pipe layout can be used with different widths of the box. I have made an excel sheet that will give you hornresp values for a width and S1S2 length. You can use it with an 8" driver 
. This is an excel sheet so your browser should complain about the security risk.
. This is an excel sheet so your browser should complain about the security risk.It's "where" they are coming from.
Some authority declared that the Source could be "bad". The security system automatically "blocks" all output from a dubious Source.
Must be something in your PC configuration and set up Andrew (although I don't know what off hand).
@ AndrewT
www security checkers are ok as such, but they often class ALL IP's on the same www as dodgy, even if for eg Only 1 really is, or has been ! They All get tarred with the same brush, that's why i don't use them. Good in theory, but prone to FP's.
Anyway, if you have several layers of defence in place, apart from a good AV, even they don't/won't catch Everything, or even near, you will be safe. I can visit the most infected www's & nothing bad happens
www security checkers are ok as such, but they often class ALL IP's on the same www as dodgy, even if for eg Only 1 really is, or has been ! They All get tarred with the same brush, that's why i don't use them. Good in theory, but prone to FP's.
Anyway, if you have several layers of defence in place, apart from a good AV, even they don't/won't catch Everything, or even near, you will be safe. I can visit the most infected www's & nothing bad happens
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