guys i'm in the process of rewiring a 80's rega rb300.
any of you know what i may be doing wrong?
removed the rubber plug near the cartridge end but nothing i do will let me remove the din plug at the base of the arm.
i removed the set screw and still can't seem to budge the din plug.
any thoughts?
any of you know what i may be doing wrong?
removed the rubber plug near the cartridge end but nothing i do will let me remove the din plug at the base of the arm.
i removed the set screw and still can't seem to budge the din plug.
any thoughts?
Hi GKF,
I you need to remove entire the old wire follow theses steps.
- Remove the plug on the base arm
- Cut the wire
- Remove the rubber plug behind de cartridge
- Remove the weight stud to see inside the wire. Take care to the small ground clip and don't miss it
- Pull gently to wire to remove them from the arm
After, this reinsert your new wires. Be patient.
Cyr-Marc
I you need to remove entire the old wire follow theses steps.
- Remove the plug on the base arm
- Cut the wire
- Remove the rubber plug behind de cartridge
- Remove the weight stud to see inside the wire. Take care to the small ground clip and don't miss it
- Pull gently to wire to remove them from the arm
After, this reinsert your new wires. Be patient.
Cyr-Marc
thanks guys for your thoughts
jeff this helps more then you know tank you for the link. this is my first time with the vinylengine site .
awesome looking read so far.
If you take the lock-screw out of the side of the arm-pillar base the plastic plug will come out. There is nothing else locking it in place. It's not a DIN plug but just a plastic bung that holds the tone-arm cable.
Usually it's a firm fit but not really solid but maybe you've got one that's a tighter fit than most. Just pull it! It will come out. The worst that can happen is that you snap the wires but you're going to do that anyway.
Be aware that inside the arm pillar there is a thin central hollow shaft that the arm leads pass through. There are rubber rings inside the shaft that the cables go through. If you pull the old wires out it is hard to get the new wires through the rings and get them back in the right places. It's best to use the old wires to pull the new ones through.
Usually it's a firm fit but not really solid but maybe you've got one that's a tighter fit than most. Just pull it! It will come out. The worst that can happen is that you snap the wires but you're going to do that anyway.
Be aware that inside the arm pillar there is a thin central hollow shaft that the arm leads pass through. There are rubber rings inside the shaft that the cables go through. If you pull the old wires out it is hard to get the new wires through the rings and get them back in the right places. It's best to use the old wires to pull the new ones through.
thanks
last night i tried this again with no luck, so after speaking to gene at take five audio here in canada, i grabbed a pair of needle nose and yanked the plastic plug out.
i destroyed it in the process. it looked to have a retailing compound locking it in.
anyway it's now removed and gene tells me he has a cardas replacement din plug for retrofit into a rega.
i'm going to order some 1877 litz wire , 1877 rodendium clips, mogami 2534 wire , vampire lrca7 locking rca's and a atlas 90deg din plug.
i'll post pictures as i get the items in and start down the rewire road.
thanks guys for all your thoughts
Rewiring makes a difference. I went for silver internal and copper external because I felt that silver right through was too lean and bright and copper right through was too warm. Worked out fine. Has a similar overall tonal balance to the original cable but is cleaner and more detailed.
Have to considered stripping the paint off it? Makes as big a difference as the rewire and if you've got the arm apart anyway it's easy enough to do.
Have to considered stripping the paint off it? Makes as big a difference as the rewire and if you've got the arm apart anyway it's easy enough to do.
Personnaly I don't use solid wire tone arm in RB300 or other tone arm where the wire are inside the arm and go to the base arm via a very, very small hole (aka RB 300) because du to wire rigidity the bias tracking is not good. I suggest to you to use stranded wire where they are more "flexible". Also, why you don't buy a sufficient lenght of wire to go directly to your preamplifier. At this time you save some money for the DIN male/female connectors and you increase the quality of your audio signal (where this one is very very sensitive).
For your RB 300, if you scrap the plastic plug on the base arm and if you replace the entire wire with a sufficient lenght to go to your preamplifier, you can replace the plastic plug by a cork wine cap cut in a small disk with a hole in the middle where you wire tone arm pass through the hole.
This is 2 cents.
Cyr-Marc
For your RB 300, if you scrap the plastic plug on the base arm and if you replace the entire wire with a sufficient lenght to go to your preamplifier, you can replace the plastic plug by a cork wine cap cut in a small disk with a hole in the middle where you wire tone arm pass through the hole.
This is 2 cents.
Cyr-Marc
fantastic idea, i love it. thats what makes audio a non hated love affair .keep the ideas coming.
I don't know what kind of wire the silver wire is but it's quite flexible so I don't think it's solid. The copper wire is multi-strand. I tend not to use solid cables, either silver or copper, because I typically don't like the sound of them. I prefer copper wire to silver too but when I tried an arm with all copper it was just a bit too warm sounding.
I've never used an arm that had a single run of cable from the pins to the amp. In theory I can see the logic in it but there are down-sides too. For a start, the wire inside the arm is very thin and for practical reasons I think that maybe a stronger one for the external cable is prudent. I also don't think that one little solder connection is that harmful to the sound. At the moment I'm using a step-up transformer so I've got a lot of connections between my cartridge and pre-amp, seems to be working ok.
I've never seen a Rega arm with a DIN plug in the pillar, is that something that was fitted at a later date? All of the arms I've seen have a plastic bung that the external cables pass trough with the internal wire soldered on to them at a tiny pcb inside the bung.
I've never used an arm that had a single run of cable from the pins to the amp. In theory I can see the logic in it but there are down-sides too. For a start, the wire inside the arm is very thin and for practical reasons I think that maybe a stronger one for the external cable is prudent. I also don't think that one little solder connection is that harmful to the sound. At the moment I'm using a step-up transformer so I've got a lot of connections between my cartridge and pre-amp, seems to be working ok.
I've never seen a Rega arm with a DIN plug in the pillar, is that something that was fitted at a later date? All of the arms I've seen have a plastic bung that the external cables pass trough with the internal wire soldered on to them at a tiny pcb inside the bung.
my rb300 was bought new in 83 days after my purchase of a heybrook tt2.
it has a male 5 pin plug and the rca cable has a female 5 pin 90deg gray plug that plugs into it on out to the rca's.the salesman had to order it for me and my heybrook tt2 needs . when it came in it had 4 spacers to lift it high enough to clear the heybrook thick platter and the wiring was like this right in the rega factory box.
i remember like it was yesterday ( 30 years ago ) wow.
i had to wait for the first ones to be released which took 12 weeks delivery. the heybrook was still new at that time even to the point that i had a real time to get a blank arm board for it . both took the same time . i was told at the time i was one of the first in canada to preorder the arm. when the box came is was ser # 00011. this was on a sticker on the box.
both these have been the only items in my system that have never changed in 30 years.
both look like the day they were bought. i will never sell these.
Cool story :0)
I had to wait for my Planer3 too. Back then you had to wait for all Rega products, even if you lived in the UK! They couldn't make them fast enough.
There aren't many things I regret selling but I do regret selling my rosewood Linn Kans. They were lovely and are very rare now. I still have my original rosewood LP12 but my son uses it these days as the other LP12 I have sounds better!
I loved my Planer3 so much I bought another one years later just to have one in the house! ;0) It's a perfect piece of design in my opinion. In fact the RB300 is my all-time favourite Hi-Fi product. It is a work of genius. I had a very rare cut-away RB300 until a few weeks ago. Rega made them for their dealers, I don't know how many were made but it wasn't a lot. It was a really cool thing to have but I gave it to Johnny at Audio Origami because I knew he'd always wanted one. He's a lovely guy and I know he'll enjoy it.
I had to wait for my Planer3 too. Back then you had to wait for all Rega products, even if you lived in the UK! They couldn't make them fast enough.
There aren't many things I regret selling but I do regret selling my rosewood Linn Kans. They were lovely and are very rare now. I still have my original rosewood LP12 but my son uses it these days as the other LP12 I have sounds better!
I loved my Planer3 so much I bought another one years later just to have one in the house! ;0) It's a perfect piece of design in my opinion. In fact the RB300 is my all-time favourite Hi-Fi product. It is a work of genius. I had a very rare cut-away RB300 until a few weeks ago. Rega made them for their dealers, I don't know how many were made but it wasn't a lot. It was a really cool thing to have but I gave it to Johnny at Audio Origami because I knew he'd always wanted one. He's a lovely guy and I know he'll enjoy it.
hey
yours is a very nice story as well . never own a linn lp12 but i remember back in the day a buddy had one and it was that $1000 good as gold that made me buy the heybrook.
it was $700 and about $300 for the rb300 which in 83 was $5000 now.
audio has been my #1 hobby of hobbys and i have really been around the block with gear.
many preamps many amps and speakers well over 170 pairs.
i build speakers diy since 1981 . everything from small 2 ways to 7 ft line arrays. many 2 way versions from sealed to transmission line. it's a tl speaker i love the most. in fact my newest speaker project i'm working on is a 3 way mtm tl with 4 6" woofers mid & tweeter.
so tonite as it is 8:45 pm here on the east coast of canada as i'm working on the tonearm, it really hit me how much else i have changed but the heybrook and rb300 hve remained.
am i right in thinking that the heybrook was a english design as rega? if so thank you england for the memories.
yours is a very nice story as well . never own a linn lp12 but i remember back in the day a buddy had one and it was that $1000 good as gold that made me buy the heybrook.
it was $700 and about $300 for the rb300 which in 83 was $5000 now.
audio has been my #1 hobby of hobbys and i have really been around the block with gear.
many preamps many amps and speakers well over 170 pairs.
i build speakers diy since 1981 . everything from small 2 ways to 7 ft line arrays. many 2 way versions from sealed to transmission line. it's a tl speaker i love the most. in fact my newest speaker project i'm working on is a 3 way mtm tl with 4 6" woofers mid & tweeter.
so tonite as it is 8:45 pm here on the east coast of canada as i'm working on the tonearm, it really hit me how much else i have changed but the heybrook and rb300 hve remained.
am i right in thinking that the heybrook was a english design as rega? if so thank you england for the memories.
Yes, Heybrook were an English company who made a lot of well respected and loved equipment. Their HB1, 2 and 3 speakers were popular, my son has a pair of HB1s actually.
Those were the golden days when there were lots of nice turntables to choose from and magazines were full of reviews, adverts and pictures of them every month. The TT2 was considered an 'also-ran' relative to the LP12 but in those days the bias of the press towards the Linn was so complete that everything was. The truth is that most of the good mid-range decks, I include the LP12 in that category, have merits and weaknesses and there isn't a clear winner. If you've built your system to fit one turntable you're probably not going to get on as well with another.
The TT2 is a three-point suspended deck which is like a cross between an LP12 and an AR turntable. One distinguishing feature is that it's very heavily built. The build quality is high and certainly up with the Linn, Logic, AR etc. I expect that whether it sounds better than an LP12 will be down to which deck is set up the best as in quality terms I doubt there's much in it.
I use Linn Isobarik speakers, yes, rosewood ones! ;0) I have used classic Linn speaker, Kans, Saras Isobariks, for over twenty-years. I've tried and heard my other speakers in that time but I haven't heard anything I'd rather have. They are not very neutral speakers and not without compromises but they play music. Building speakers sounds like fun! When you consider how much of the cost is in the cabinet it seems likely that you could build very high quality speakers for relatively little cost. Any pictures? :0)
Those were the golden days when there were lots of nice turntables to choose from and magazines were full of reviews, adverts and pictures of them every month. The TT2 was considered an 'also-ran' relative to the LP12 but in those days the bias of the press towards the Linn was so complete that everything was. The truth is that most of the good mid-range decks, I include the LP12 in that category, have merits and weaknesses and there isn't a clear winner. If you've built your system to fit one turntable you're probably not going to get on as well with another.
The TT2 is a three-point suspended deck which is like a cross between an LP12 and an AR turntable. One distinguishing feature is that it's very heavily built. The build quality is high and certainly up with the Linn, Logic, AR etc. I expect that whether it sounds better than an LP12 will be down to which deck is set up the best as in quality terms I doubt there's much in it.
I use Linn Isobarik speakers, yes, rosewood ones! ;0) I have used classic Linn speaker, Kans, Saras Isobariks, for over twenty-years. I've tried and heard my other speakers in that time but I haven't heard anything I'd rather have. They are not very neutral speakers and not without compromises but they play music. Building speakers sounds like fun! When you consider how much of the cost is in the cabinet it seems likely that you could build very high quality speakers for relatively little cost. Any pictures? :0)
Of course. Just solder all of he new wires onto the end of the old ones and pull through. Nice and gently.
Remember to leave slack inside the arm-tube where the wire inters it so that you do not impede the movement of the arm. It's very easy to pull the wires tight when messing about with them at the base of the pillar, where the bung/plug is.
guys here is where i stand so far on my rewire project.
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