Trying to choose which drivers to go with. Need advise

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I am getting ready to start a new subwoofer build and need some advise. I am going to start out building just one and then will build another one to match, around a month later when I am able to save up some more cash for the extra driver. My room is 14 x 18 and these will be used for mostly home theater with a very small amount of music listening.

My budget for the driver is $300.00 ea. I was thinking of going with the Dayton HO18 or Fi Car Audio SSD-18. I am kind of new to this, and those are the only drivers that I have been researching. Can anyone suggest and other drivers in that price range that would be better than the SSD-18 or HO18?

I want to build these in a large ported enclosure that would ideally go down to sub 16hz and also put out a good amount of SPL at those low frequencies. I have no size or space restrictions, no WAF to deal with as these will be going in my man cave.

I am also looking for good suggestions on what amp I should go with. Budget for the amp is $300 and below. Budget for the driver is $300 and below.
 
Either of these drivers should be a good choice, but I only have experience with the Fi drivers, which I cant really fault. An SSD18 will work well in a large enclosure tuned down to 15hz with anything upto 1000 watts of input power. Many people use behringer amps to power DIY subs as they offer lots of power pretty cheaply and one amp can power two subs easily enough. The are pro amps though and come with cooling fans on them that may be an issue for some.
 
Hi ClarkDan,

"...I have no size or space restrictions..."

How about the Kraken 212: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/160879-build-your-own-2x12-th-kraken-212-th-8.html

Regards,

Wow, that looks so impressive that I have decided to build a pair of Kraken 112's. Might possibly go with a 212 but since this is my first build, I think the 112 might be easier. Do you, or anyone else have the proper deminsions of the cabinet, preferably in inches, for the 112 with the recommended JBL 1214 driver? I looked through a ton of pages on that thread and couldn't really find a decent copy of the specs as far as which widths to cut the panels. Any help with that would be awesome!
 
I built a Dayton sub for HT. 4.5 cubic feet. Love it and I won't go down the commercial route again.
 

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Hi ClarkDan,

Here it is in Post #94 (some of these threads should be indexed in Post #1, oh well): http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...own-2x12-th-kraken-212-th-10.html#post2770682

Quote: "... inner width and the outlet hole is 320mm wide/high. Material thickness is
22mm..." (W_inner=12.598" / Material=0.866")

Regards,


Thanks for that link. I have read most of that thread, and to be honest, I am a little bit intimidated. Those diminisons listed are hard for me to understand and picture in my head as I have never done any wood working before. Do you know if anyone has made a cutlist with the exact diminisons of each panal in inches? Kind of like lilmikes thread over at AVS on the F-20 horn sub that he designed? I really need some better sketches of this thing before I jump off into it.
 
If you build create a model in google sketchup you can produce stuff similar to what Ive done in the images attached.
 

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If you build create a model in google sketchup you can produce stuff similar to what Ive done in the images attached.

I have never used google sketchup, but I will look into it. How do I figure out the diminisons of each board, preferably in inches?

I wish I knew more about using google, and had the proper diminisons for each panal. That would make this a whole heck of a lot easier! The picture that was linked a couple of post back, is very confusing in the way that it is written, and I just wish there were a more standard cut list for each panal. I really want to get started on the cabinet but I don't know what size cuts to make.

I will order the driver tomorrow!
 
It looks like they created a google sketcup model of it already. Perhaps you should PM the guy and ask if he has a model he could send you:

diyAudio - View Profile: Petter Persson

If he has a model, but your still not sure what to do with it, let me know, have it sent to me, and I'll break it down for you.



Ok I just sent him a pm asking for a model sketchup or cut list with proper diminisons of each board. You don't know how much I appreciate all of everyones help on this, especially you Moonfly! I am going to wait on ordering the driver until I can make sure thant I will somehow be able to get a detailed cut list and/or sketchup/detailed drawings of the diminisons. I don't want to order the drivers then not be able to get the specs on the cab, thus leaving me with 2 drivers that I would otherwise never use.
 
Hi Moonfly,

I made the drawing you are refering to in Post #14, it is for the Kraken 212, and was to show the sizes of different mouth locations, and the difference between a 3-section and a 4-section Hornresp model. It does not show the individual boards.

What the OP needs is referenced in Post #8 (this thread), i.e.: Post #94 of the Kraken thread, from that he should be able to develop a cut-sheet; the dimensions are in mm (divide by 25.4 to get inches). Or, you could make him a sketchup model.

Regards,
 
Thankfully, John is working on a cutlist for me. I ordered the drivers just a few minutes ago and will probably pick up the wood to start on these babies this weekend since my fiancé is going to be out of town. I am planning on building two of these bad boys, (Krackin 112's). I already have a spare Yung 300 watt plate amp that I purchased from parts express a few weeks ago. Do you guys think I could use that to power one of these Krackin 112's? I know that horn subs are very efficient so I am hoping to save some money by purchasing another cheap Yung 300 watt plate amp to match my other one, then picking up a minidsp to EQ these two subs.
 
Hi Moonfly,

I made the drawing you are refering to in Post #14, it is for the Kraken 212, and was to show the sizes of different mouth locations, and the difference between a 3-section and a 4-section Hornresp model. It does not show the individual boards.

What the OP needs is referenced in Post #8 (this thread), i.e.: Post #94 of the Kraken thread, from that he should be able to develop a cut-sheet; the dimensions are in mm (divide by 25.4 to get inches). Or, you could make him a sketchup model.

Regards,

Ah I see. Well we can see how he gets on, if Dan sorts it out for him then sorted. If help is needed with GS then I can help out there. Can we upload GS models on this forum, if I end up doing one, may as well have it posted here.
 
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