Nice vintage speakers! If you don't have a wife at home then this might be interesting to look at:
More information can be found in this nice article that Nelson wrote: http://www.passdiy.com/pdf/KleinHorn.pdf
More information can be found in this nice article that Nelson wrote: http://www.passdiy.com/pdf/KleinHorn.pdf
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Nice vintage speakers! If you don't have a wife at home then this might be interesting to look at:
More information can be found in this nice article that Nelson wrote: http://www.passdiy.com/pdf/KleinHorn.pdf
Uh come on
holly lord will punish me in an other-worldly place kiddin' aside, they are neck-breaking to build. I want something easier as these are very famous and widely used speakers, I wanted others opinion so I'll use their experience and build something which is successfully done before
Have you looked at Philips 9710/
If you use it facing forward you have to equalize it quite a lot. Facing upwards (Lowther America Prices ACE horn) or backward it works better (Decca Corner Horn Speaker)
If you use it facing forward you have to equalize it quite a lot. Facing upwards (Lowther America Prices ACE horn) or backward it works better (Decca Corner Horn Speaker)
thanks buddy for good info
I'll usequestion: will these 9710s play fairly well in a 45square feet room with a 3.5wpc SE 2A3 tube amp??
how do they sound like?
can I use a tweeter for better highs? I got B&C D32s laying around which goes up to 18-19Khz with 107db/w/m
Uh come on
as these are very famous and widely used speakers, I wanted others opinion so I'll use their experience and build something which is successfully done before
You said "there is no limitation in size", so I figured this would be a nice example of why you should take a limit on the size
You said "there is no limitation in size", so I figured this would be a nice example of why you should take a limit on the size
You didn't read my post literally
I said "they are neck-breaking to build" not "they are too big" I can't build something like this. BTW they are big! 
You didn't read my post literally
Most BLH designs are neck-breaking to build. Personally I am looking for a nice enclosure for my Coral Flat-8 speakers and I am thinking of building Lowther TP1 enclosures. The reason why this design is very appealing to me is because of the double horn (one in frontside and one on the backside).
The building plans for these enclosures are available on the web if you search properly. The Lowthers are build out of allot of different sized / shaped boards, these plans are insane and not for the beginner
An 88 litre internal volume vented enclosure tuned to 40 Hz is a good match for the Philips 9710M/01.The braided voice coil leads need to be checked and replaced if necessary as they have a tendency to harden with age.There are some simple refinements for this driver and a cowl of 'Tontine' or similar fitted snugly behind the frame is one of them.A slot diffuser fitted at the front can help alleviate an aggressive high end and a suitable coating (flexible) applied to the corrugated surround will preserve this item for a long period.
is this a BLH?
Hello,
yes,
the driver need support up to 800 Hz + rolloff,
in the Schalmei double horn sat you will get it,
and you need a good sub,
in the double horns with rear invers driver
you get support up to ~2 kHz and a best bass
by delete the bass imp in the lowest oktave.
look:
Schalmei-Sat
saxophon
RDH
9710 is a good driver in the right enclosures,
try it without added tweeter
Hello,
yes,
the driver need support up to 800 Hz + rolloff,
in the Schalmei double horn sat you will get it,
and you need a good sub,
in the double horns with rear invers driver
you get support up to ~2 kHz and a best bass
by delete the bass imp in the lowest oktave.
look:
Schalmei-Sat
saxophon
RDH
9710 is a good driver in the right enclosures,
try it without added tweeter
45 square feet? that is like 4 square meters and in such a small room any amp is more than enough.
If you mean a room of 45 by 45 feet and thus 2000 square feet you are likely to run out of steam with 4 Watt.
I would go for a tweeter as the high range of any 8" driver beams a lot. Look on the danish page on how he Equed and crossed over to get inspiration.
Many years ago I uilt the Lowther Accousta 115 basshorn and used the Philips 9710 as a driver, very sharp beaming tweeter range and no bass at all below 70 Hz.
If you mean a room of 45 by 45 feet and thus 2000 square feet you are likely to run out of steam with 4 Watt.
I would go for a tweeter as the high range of any 8" driver beams a lot. Look on the danish page on how he Equed and crossed over to get inspiration.
Many years ago I uilt the Lowther Accousta 115 basshorn and used the Philips 9710 as a driver, very sharp beaming tweeter range and no bass at all below 70 Hz.
absolutely no horn!!!!
Horns are good for low Q loudspeakers and the 9710 has Q around 0,7-0,8 and if it is old and not correctley stored, the magnet might have lost his power and the 9710 might have a Q even more than 0,8.
My 2 cent suggest is to try it OB. If you don't like (poor bass, etc) you can try a closed box at around 200litres
Aiace
Horns are good for low Q loudspeakers and the 9710 has Q around 0,7-0,8 and if it is old and not correctley stored, the magnet might have lost his power and the 9710 might have a Q even more than 0,8.
My 2 cent suggest is to try it OB. If you don't like (poor bass, etc) you can try a closed box at around 200litres
Aiace
According to Martin J King (Horn Theory) drivers with more of a high Q can be used in backloaded horns. However, that they simulate well amplitude wise does not ensure that they will sound goood, but ruling them out on Q alone might be premature.
Hi, these are some nice drivers you got, they look to be in fantastic shape!
I have a pair of the ceramic magnet version, which has pretty much the same parameters as yours. I used mine in Karlsonettes and they do pretty good, but I believe a better Karlson could be designed for them. AD9710 is on the left; on the right is Richard Allan CG10T.
A big-@$$ TQWT might be your best bet for these. I've attached a variety of Philips enclosures made for the 9710 that I have collected.
IG
I have a pair of the ceramic magnet version, which has pretty much the same parameters as yours. I used mine in Karlsonettes and they do pretty good, but I believe a better Karlson could be designed for them. AD9710 is on the left; on the right is Richard Allan CG10T.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
A big-@$$ TQWT might be your best bet for these. I've attached a variety of Philips enclosures made for the 9710 that I have collected.
IG
Attachments
I actually bought the TP-1 plans from Lowther and scaled it down for a 5"driver. The plans were a mess with the horn both expanding and contracting, my guess is that they converted if rom imperical measures to metric and someone less talented with calculator doing the job and then not bothering testing the results obtained. The top vibrated quite badly as I recall. In hindsight I can not understand why I built such a complicated design for such a crappy driver. I think it was a cheap Japanese driver with a dual cone thing in fake aluminium
So if you build them make sure that the flare is resonable ( not negative in som bends) and that the parts fit together...
So if you build them make sure that the flare is resonable ( not negative in som bends) and that the parts fit together...
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