Hi all,
Im looking for an existing proven tapped horn design that works with any of the better ande drivers here: JDs Sound and Lighting. Speaker Components
my requirements are to go as low as possible, be easy to build and not too big. It will be used in my studio so super loud is not necessarily, but i will gladly take what i can get.
If I were not limited to the drivers in Australia choosing a design wold have been easy, I am learning lots about tapped horns and horn response but i'm still too much of a newbie and that's why i ask for help.
thanks,
Im looking for an existing proven tapped horn design that works with any of the better ande drivers here: JDs Sound and Lighting. Speaker Components
my requirements are to go as low as possible, be easy to build and not too big. It will be used in my studio so super loud is not necessarily, but i will gladly take what i can get.
If I were not limited to the drivers in Australia choosing a design wold have been easy, I am learning lots about tapped horns and horn response but i'm still too much of a newbie and that's why i ask for help.
thanks,
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You'll want a driver with plenty of Xmax to get down to 20Hz, the SB18-5 and SB21-1 might be the best bets. But these won't fit with "not too big", you'll probably end up with a box around 20 cubic feet
But I don't see how both sets of T-S parameters can be correct; they've got the same coil diameter, magnet size and Xmax (same coil/magnet?) but the 18" has BL=24.3 (seems low) and the 21" has BL=36.3...
If you don't need such high SPL but still need to get down to 20Hz none of the smaller Ande drivers are suitable (Xmax is too low), you need something more like the Eminence LAB12 -- or for even smaller boxes, the Tangband 8" (or even 6.5") subs might be suitable.
http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/showthread.php/27884-TangBand-range-in-Aus
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are you refering to this: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/143714-lab12-tapped-horn.html
as I was looking at that but with some driver available in aus. If so how good is the box i have read it gets down to 18hz at its rolloff?
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Yup that's the one! I'm not sure what you mean by how is the box? The input screen is there run the sim in hornresp and see if you like the response.
I'm using a qsc rmx 1450 bridged to power it, I was running it off of one channel previously but would get some clipping on the larger explosions. Now with active crossover HP and LP I don't get any clipping at any volume levels!
For the rear of the room I have two volvotretter double fold tang band tapped horns. Each corner loaded, providing bass down to 45hz or so (I was getting motor noise at 40hz so I high passed them right above that)
You will have plenty of options by the time you build, so set your goals (REALISTIC) ones, then choose a design.
I don't have DSP for my mains, so I have no delay set up for the mains....the result?
On music you can tell the bass isn't as tight as it should be, but for HT it really doesn't affect it (to my ears)
But my setup is strictly HT and I used it once for music playback and most likely won't ever again.
So again set your goals then decide, and don't forget things like amp power, DSP etc etc!
I'm using a qsc rmx 1450 bridged to power it, I was running it off of one channel previously but would get some clipping on the larger explosions. Now with active crossover HP and LP I don't get any clipping at any volume levels!
For the rear of the room I have two volvotretter double fold tang band tapped horns. Each corner loaded, providing bass down to 45hz or so (I was getting motor noise at 40hz so I high passed them right above that)
You will have plenty of options by the time you build, so set your goals (REALISTIC) ones, then choose a design.
I don't have DSP for my mains, so I have no delay set up for the mains....the result?
On music you can tell the bass isn't as tight as it should be, but for HT it really doesn't affect it (to my ears)
But my setup is strictly HT and I used it once for music playback and most likely won't ever again.
So again set your goals then decide, and don't forget things like amp power, DSP etc etc!
Im guessing it goes plenty loud to annoy the neighbors
I will be running the low pass at very low for the enclosure so I think that will efectively bypass the whole not being punchy issue in music (because Im pretty darn sure 20hz is never gonna sound punchy)
I have a pair of jbl 8" 2300 series reference monitors that are capable of 60hz-70hz and up which is what i will put the sub alongside. Also I do have access to DSP as I have a dbx driverack not being used atm.
As for an amp, I dont really have one except for a lab gruppen 3400, which is way overkill, I am thinking of getting an xti that can be used for PA at later stage if needed, I can limit it with dsp and Im very courteous to the neighbors and only push into high spl at midday when no one is home.
I will be running the low pass at very low for the enclosure so I think that will efectively bypass the whole not being punchy issue in music (because Im pretty darn sure 20hz is never gonna sound punchy)
I have a pair of jbl 8" 2300 series reference monitors that are capable of 60hz-70hz and up which is what i will put the sub alongside. Also I do have access to DSP as I have a dbx driverack not being used atm.
As for an amp, I dont really have one except for a lab gruppen 3400, which is way overkill, I am thinking of getting an xti that can be used for PA at later stage if needed, I can limit it with dsp and Im very courteous to the neighbors and only push into high spl at midday when no one is home.
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JBL GTO1014 12" Car Subwoofer - RYDA Car Audio($184.85)
Isn't that the driver used in the Kraken 212?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/160879-build-your-own-2x12-th.html
If it is do that one!
But if I remember correctly the drivers were supposed to be $90 each....Making it a very good bang for the buck. I guess even at double that price you can still have a pretty beastly subwoofer for around $450 or so....
Edit...
From sonic electronics the drivers are $86 each...
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13865_JBL-GTO1214.html
Isn't that the driver used in the Kraken 212?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/160879-build-your-own-2x12-th.html
If it is do that one!
But if I remember correctly the drivers were supposed to be $90 each....Making it a very good bang for the buck. I guess even at double that price you can still have a pretty beastly subwoofer for around $450 or so....
Edit...
From sonic electronics the drivers are $86 each...
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13865_JBL-GTO1214.html
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dont forget to add the $180 in shipping hahaha... its so much its funny, yet still hurts.
But yes that is a design I would be interested in and works with an aus speaker, thanks,
have you heard the enclosure?
And the Kraken is about 20ft3 outside, just like I predicted ;-)
-- of course you could build half of it with one driver, only 10ft3 then...
Seriously, if you want a relatively small box which works down to 20Hz you might be better looking at home theatre type sub designs, these usually use inefficient very long-throw drivers in a relatively small box, either sealed or using passive radiators (can't fit big enough ports in) and big amplifiers.
You won't get the output of a TH (which you probably don't need anyway) but you'll need a lot less space.
As to what suitable drivers are available in Oz, I've no idea
I have just been looking at the kraken 112, and that space is fine. I am however unsure of the weight of it, I still need to be able to move it myself, with difficulty is fine but still myself which I think the 112 can do (care to comment anyone?). http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/160879-build-your-own-2x12-th-10.html
However I am a little sad to have to go with a single driver version because if two drivers are used they can cancel each others distortion and since its for the studio this is a very good thing. Or is this effect fairly minimal?
However I am a little sad to have to go with a single driver version because if two drivers are used they can cancel each others distortion and since its for the studio this is a very good thing. Or is this effect fairly minimal?
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