I was hoping for some Ideas as to how to approach setting up a active multi-way speakers crossovers . I know there are lots of great resources and free softwares for doing computer simulations to help one built a passive xover .........
I suppose it's a matter of taking LOTS of measurements and a sizable tweakfest...... ( I have REW set up on my lappy , and a omni measurement Mic W/ the calibration file provided by Dayton) .
I have my boxes all together ( FINALLY ) and each driver is just wired to the terminals outside the box so I can send each amps signals through each individual driver . I'm really anxious to see If those look like the mfrs SPL spectrum's were in the data sheets ! ( I guess that will be a preliminary indicator as to how well the box construction went !
)
SOoooooo anyway ;
If you are someone who designs and executes speakers for the "active" lifestyle
please share some of your methodologies you implement when you have arrived at this phase of your builds !!!
Thanks
I suppose it's a matter of taking LOTS of measurements and a sizable tweakfest...... ( I have REW set up on my lappy , and a omni measurement Mic W/ the calibration file provided by Dayton) .
I have my boxes all together ( FINALLY ) and each driver is just wired to the terminals outside the box so I can send each amps signals through each individual driver . I'm really anxious to see If those look like the mfrs SPL spectrum's were in the data sheets ! ( I guess that will be a preliminary indicator as to how well the box construction went !
) SOoooooo anyway ;
If you are someone who designs and executes speakers for the "active" lifestyle
please share some of your methodologies you implement when you have arrived at this phase of your builds !!!Thanks
Don't take this as advise, just my thought -
Why do you need to measure when you adjust the crossover to your liking?
Does it mean when it has a dip, but its sounds good to you (you like it) then its BAD?
Or does it mean, when its ruler flat, but sounds like c..p (you hate it, your ears bleed) then its VERY GOOD?
Just thinking out loud, active in my opinion is active with many adjustment possibilities so you can shape the xo point to your liking, not to adjust it to be ruler flat....
At the end, it's you who will be listening to the speakers
Danny
P.S.: Go and build it)))) then share experience
Why do you need to measure when you adjust the crossover to your liking?
Does it mean when it has a dip, but its sounds good to you (you like it) then its BAD?
Or does it mean, when its ruler flat, but sounds like c..p (you hate it, your ears bleed) then its VERY GOOD?
Just thinking out loud, active in my opinion is active with many adjustment possibilities so you can shape the xo point to your liking, not to adjust it to be ruler flat....
At the end, it's you who will be listening to the speakers
Danny
P.S.: Go and build it
)))) then share experience
This is how I do it:
1: Measure each driver individually including polars
2: PEQ down any peaks to get a relatively flat response.
3: Match levels of the drivers. I do this through the amps.
4. Apply crossover points and slopes where I think they will work best for directivity, driver range etc.
5. Measure on axis and off axis and check for any phase or response anomolies.
6. Sit and listen to my favourite music. Walk around the room and listen some more. If im happy, keep listening, if not, repeat step 4.
7. If everything 'locks in" and I get a warm fuzzy feeling in my heart then I stop there. If I am endlessly tweaking without much satisfaction then I think about trying different drivers or changing direction with the project. Being an amateur I try to keep things simple but sometimes I like to try different things to learn and hopefully come up with a design that brings a smile to my face. Just my 2 cents.
1: Measure each driver individually including polars
2: PEQ down any peaks to get a relatively flat response.
3: Match levels of the drivers. I do this through the amps.
4. Apply crossover points and slopes where I think they will work best for directivity, driver range etc.
5. Measure on axis and off axis and check for any phase or response anomolies.
6. Sit and listen to my favourite music. Walk around the room and listen some more. If im happy, keep listening, if not, repeat step 4.
7. If everything 'locks in" and I get a warm fuzzy feeling in my heart then I stop there
. If I am endlessly tweaking without much satisfaction then I think about trying different drivers or changing direction with the project. Being an amateur I try to keep things simple but sometimes I like to try different things to learn and hopefully come up with a design that brings a smile to my face. Just my 2 cents.
Plurality of worlds, my own thoughts :
Before taking any decision for your cross over points and slopes, measure you drivers very close ( one inch), then one meter, then 2 or 3. This on axis, and off axis (a fast polar if you want). If you do it indoor, you can also use 3 different gates lengths when you measure passed 1 meter.
This will give you an idea of that's good and bad. Example, if your boomer has a lot of break up dips in it's high end, a lower Fc with a stepped slope will be required. If you are going two ways, you will also have to consider the natural roll off of each drivers that will probably be summed with the electrical applied slopes.
Once this first step done, then measure with the filters in place. It's better to stick to target curves (Arta has this feature) if not so it's and endless search of the optimal flat result with the correct time alignment, very annoying task if you are running analogic filters.
Once this second step...done, then it's time to take care of the directivity. In case that you could discover some unwanted lobing, horizontal or vertical, go back to the first step and see what has been underestimated....a modern torment of Tantalus. Think also of the interactions with your room.
You can listen at any time, of course, but in this context our hearing is never trustworthy. Good luck and have fun.
Before taking any decision for your cross over points and slopes, measure you drivers very close ( one inch), then one meter, then 2 or 3. This on axis, and off axis (a fast polar if you want). If you do it indoor, you can also use 3 different gates lengths when you measure passed 1 meter.
This will give you an idea of that's good and bad. Example, if your boomer has a lot of break up dips in it's high end, a lower Fc with a stepped slope will be required. If you are going two ways, you will also have to consider the natural roll off of each drivers that will probably be summed with the electrical applied slopes.
Once this first step done, then measure with the filters in place. It's better to stick to target curves (Arta has this feature) if not so it's and endless search of the optimal flat result with the correct time alignment, very annoying task if you are running analogic filters.
Once this second step...done, then it's time to take care of the directivity. In case that you could discover some unwanted lobing, horizontal or vertical, go back to the first step and see what has been underestimated....a modern torment of Tantalus. Think also of the interactions with your room.
You can listen at any time, of course, but in this context our hearing is never trustworthy. Good luck and have fun.
Then there are the very practical considerations:
- What sort of active crossover are you using?
- Does it have a choice of slopes?
- Can you do crossover point spread or overlap?
- Or are the points tied to each other?
- What sort of EQ do you have?
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