So I took a look at another Reference 500 I have that is down as well and it's got some differences inside. This one is burnt up where the LSE.Q dial comes into the board and is labeled VR303. Also D110 & D111 are also burnt.
I have no idea what these blue things are called but as you can see in the photos they have different values on them between the two amps. Also one has some resistors to the left of the VR303 (looks like R206 and R306)and the other doesn't.
Also R113-R118 are totally different between the two.
Is it odd to see these differences or is this really no big deal?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have no idea what these blue things are called but as you can see in the photos they have different values on them between the two amps. Also one has some resistors to the left of the VR303 (looks like R206 and R306)and the other doesn't.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Also R113-R118 are totally different between the two.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Is it odd to see these differences or is this really no big deal?
I've got (4) Reference 500. I am the original owner of (2). One works perfectly. The other has a problem with output out of the right channel. It's not totally dead but it's very faint.
The two I've posted photos of are ones I picked up years ago. Although I think this one with the burn marks on the pot blew up under my watch. The one with all the burnt up resistors and FETs was like that when I got it for free.
I've also got (3) Ref 300, (1) Ref 705, (1) Ref 160S, and (2) Ref 200s. These all work fine.
I've only had issues with the 500. They have always been run at 2ohms mono switched to High Power but they are supposed to be safe at that load.
I'm hoping the one with only the right output being almost nil is an easy fix. I've been out of the car audio game for a good 6-7 years. Have a teenage boy who just got his first car and wants tunes so it's lit the fire again. So I want to put these to use in the 3 vehicles we have.
Was going to send these in to Wade Stewart for repairs but something went south on that according to the DIYMA site so I decided I'd try to fix these myself. Been trying to understand as much as I can from the info on BCAE. I literally just started down this road yesterday. I really should have done a lot more reading and learning before I started posting here but it's hard when there seems to be so much willing assistance and knowledge here.
The two I've posted photos of are ones I picked up years ago. Although I think this one with the burn marks on the pot blew up under my watch. The one with all the burnt up resistors and FETs was like that when I got it for free.
I've also got (3) Ref 300, (1) Ref 705, (1) Ref 160S, and (2) Ref 200s. These all work fine.
I've only had issues with the 500. They have always been run at 2ohms mono switched to High Power but they are supposed to be safe at that load.
I'm hoping the one with only the right output being almost nil is an easy fix. I've been out of the car audio game for a good 6-7 years. Have a teenage boy who just got his first car and wants tunes so it's lit the fire again. So I want to put these to use in the 3 vehicles we have.
Was going to send these in to Wade Stewart for repairs but something went south on that according to the DIYMA site so I decided I'd try to fix these myself. Been trying to understand as much as I can from the info on BCAE. I literally just started down this road yesterday. I really should have done a lot more reading and learning before I started posting here but it's hard when there seems to be so much willing assistance and knowledge here.
2 ohm mono is not recommended in high power mode. Even if the manual shows that it can be used that way you shouldn't run these amps like that. This is Soundstream's fault for stating it can be run like that and why the company didn't survive due to too many warranty claims. The main indicator that it shouldn't be ran at 2 ohm mono is it doesn't make any more power as you drop from 4 ohm mono to 2 ohm mono. This basically tells you the power supply is all tapped out. When you are in 2 ohm mono, each channel is only seeing 1 ohm, this is too low for high power mode. Switch to high current mode anytime a channel will see anything below 2 ohms. This would include 2 ohm mono. The amps will be so much more reliable if you use high current mode in the way I describe.
Attachments
We currently use a Ref 300 at 2 ohms mono in high power mode, no problems whatsoever, the amplifier doesn't even get hot.
But I do agree that low impedances caused many problems including the demise of the company. Some of their Class A models can be run at 1/2 ohms mono (1/4 ohms stereo !) but I would never, ever do that. 2 ohms mono is the lowest I go and I agree, at this impedance people should try high current mode first. If it's powerful enough, leave it that way. However, on some of the later models one cannot choose between these modes as there was the automatic switch.
But I do agree that low impedances caused many problems including the demise of the company. Some of their Class A models can be run at 1/2 ohms mono (1/4 ohms stereo !) but I would never, ever do that. 2 ohms mono is the lowest I go and I agree, at this impedance people should try high current mode first. If it's powerful enough, leave it that way. However, on some of the later models one cannot choose between these modes as there was the automatic switch.
I could not agree more. I will make the suggestion to my friend, he's coming over tomorrow. I wanted to do so in the first place, we realised we forgot to flip the switch after installing the amp and I guess we left it that way.
And he's pleasant to deal with
reference 500 questions
I have a older reference 500 with a burnt r125. It has 100k pots like one of the ones pictured here. I am having a hard time seeing the color bands. Is it brown, black, black, gold? The amp still works, I just want to replace the damaged resistor. Also is there supose to be anything in the holes where the maxi fuse mounts? Seems weird to mount a flat blade fuse into a round hole, the previous owner just had a piece of 8 awg in place of the fuse. Thanks, shane
I have a older reference 500 with a burnt r125. It has 100k pots like one of the ones pictured here. I am having a hard time seeing the color bands. Is it brown, black, black, gold? The amp still works, I just want to replace the damaged resistor. Also is there supose to be anything in the holes where the maxi fuse mounts? Seems weird to mount a flat blade fuse into a round hole, the previous owner just had a piece of 8 awg in place of the fuse. Thanks, shane
reference 500 questions
I have a older reference 500 with a burnt r125. It has 100k pots like one of the ones pictured here. I am having a hard time seeing the color bands. Is it brown, black, black, gold? The amp still works, I just want to replace the damaged resistor. Also is there supose to be anything in the holes where the maxi fuse mounts? Seems weird to mount a flat blade fuse into a round hole, the previous owner just had a piece of 8 awg in place of the fuse. Thanks, shane
I have a older reference 500 with a burnt r125. It has 100k pots like one of the ones pictured here. I am having a hard time seeing the color bands. Is it brown, black, black, gold? The amp still works, I just want to replace the damaged resistor. Also is there supose to be anything in the holes where the maxi fuse mounts? Seems weird to mount a flat blade fuse into a round hole, the previous owner just had a piece of 8 awg in place of the fuse. Thanks, shane
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.