Wondered if anyone knows where I could buy this board. It's inside the right satellite of an HK395 PC speaker system.
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb331/schtevo/hk395.jpg
It reads [SAT-MAIN VOLUME PCB] near the top and MODEL:HK395(S) at the bottom. I need everything you see here minus the white and black wire near the upper right where it's labeled SP-L. Hopefully, it comes as one unit (including the red and black wires) from the factory.
Any help is appreciated.
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb331/schtevo/hk395.jpg
It reads [SAT-MAIN VOLUME PCB] near the top and MODEL:HK395(S) at the bottom. I need everything you see here minus the white and black wire near the upper right where it's labeled SP-L. Hopefully, it comes as one unit (including the red and black wires) from the factory.
Any help is appreciated.
you can DIY that piece . Stereo Logarithmic Potentiometer , value between 20-50 KOhm
Led -any color with a series resistance of 1 KOhm
If you can manage to make an L with a hole to house the potentiometer , so it can be mounted inside a little recessed . Make the proper solders using also a solder terminal stripe to make things tidy and clean.
Led -any color with a series resistance of 1 KOhm
If you can manage to make an L with a hole to house the potentiometer , so it can be mounted inside a little recessed . Make the proper solders using also a solder terminal stripe to make things tidy and clean.
Thanks for the quick response. But, I'm a too much of a noob. I know carpentry, laptop repairs, and the occasional auto repair, but I don't have the knowledge or tools to diy this one.
I'm guessing that it's 50k since the knob (potentiometer?) part says 3B50K. I'm also assuming that's the broken part. It's been funky for awhile. When I tweak the volume with that knob, it gets a static sound and sometimes cuts out the right speaker. After a little fiddling with the knob, I can usually get the right speaker back. Lately, the right speaker hardly ever works.
I wanted to get the whole board because the soldier job behind the "3B50K" part seems awfully tight. I'd likely have too messy a solder job that arced and failed.
If you're talking about making the whole board myself, I really don't know how to go about that. Maybe you could point me somewhere to get started with this particular project. This seems like an excellent trade to familiarize oneself with.
I'm guessing that it's 50k since the knob (potentiometer?) part says 3B50K. I'm also assuming that's the broken part. It's been funky for awhile. When I tweak the volume with that knob, it gets a static sound and sometimes cuts out the right speaker. After a little fiddling with the knob, I can usually get the right speaker back. Lately, the right speaker hardly ever works.
I wanted to get the whole board because the soldier job behind the "3B50K" part seems awfully tight. I'd likely have too messy a solder job that arced and failed.
If you're talking about making the whole board myself, I really don't know how to go about that. Maybe you could point me somewhere to get started with this particular project. This seems like an excellent trade to familiarize oneself with.
Of course you can do it .
It would EVEN perform better
You can leave the NEW potentiometer outside the plastic cabinet.
While you're there ,you can even trash those cabinets and build some wooden ones
sorry I've gone too far (as this would imply considering changing the speakers for better ones , and realize that they would need a better quality amplification -power.)
You can bypass completely the PCB job , by connecting the power (speaker) line directly to speaker's terminals , and putting outside the Potentiometer.
The led is just an optical illusion ,you can skip it
It would EVEN perform better
You can leave the NEW potentiometer outside the plastic cabinet.
While you're there ,you can even trash those cabinets and build some wooden ones
sorry I've gone too far (as this would imply considering changing the speakers for better ones , and realize that they would need a better quality amplification -power.)You can bypass completely the PCB job , by connecting the power (speaker) line directly to speaker's terminals , and putting outside the Potentiometer.
The led is just an optical illusion ,you can skip it
Is this topic closed? Schtevo did you get everything figured out? I have the woofer for this set and am looking to build the speakers and need to know the schematic for the board inside of the speaker. If you would be so kind would you be able to take a picture of the bottom of the board so I can see the traces? Thanks!
bipass Potentiometer
Picowallspeaker,
I would like to bipass the potentiometer in my HK395 PC speaker system and was hoping that there might be a simple and effective solution. I have identified the paths of the 9 wires that come into the little board that runs to and from the the potentiometer.
your wisdom would be excitedly appreciated!
Dusty
Picowallspeaker,
I would like to bipass the potentiometer in my HK395 PC speaker system and was hoping that there might be a simple and effective solution. I have identified the paths of the 9 wires that come into the little board that runs to and from the the potentiometer.
your wisdom would be excitedly appreciated!
Dusty
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