So for those of you who don't know, Madisound is having a massive clearance sale on Aurasound drivers. They are literally dirt cheap. I would like to build an open baffle line array with these drivers.
https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=8987
8 drivers per side could give me 8 ohms.
From my research, it seems like a high Qts is good for open baffle designs, and the line array would give me usable efficiency as well as awesomeness, and the open baffle design should sound very natural. I also plan to use two of these in series for 8 ohms in a ported enclosure to help with the bass. It would be cool to only lowpass the bass and let the mid/tweeters roll off naturally.
I don't, however, have any experience with open baffle designs. Is there a way to determine the f3? I would assume that the frequency that rolloff starts is where the frequency is the same length as the driver to the end of the baffle. Is this true, or am I off? Also, would it sound better to crossover to the woofers higher than the point of natural rolloff for the open baffle part?
https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=8987
8 drivers per side could give me 8 ohms.
From my research, it seems like a high Qts is good for open baffle designs, and the line array would give me usable efficiency as well as awesomeness, and the open baffle design should sound very natural. I also plan to use two of these in series for 8 ohms in a ported enclosure to help with the bass. It would be cool to only lowpass the bass and let the mid/tweeters roll off naturally.
I don't, however, have any experience with open baffle designs. Is there a way to determine the f3? I would assume that the frequency that rolloff starts is where the frequency is the same length as the driver to the end of the baffle. Is this true, or am I off? Also, would it sound better to crossover to the woofers higher than the point of natural rolloff for the open baffle part?
You can do some simple OB simulations with free downloads. Is it Edge baffle I'm thinking of? XLbaffle? There are a couple out there. While those look great for the line, I'd use something else for bass reinforcement. There are really inexpensive woofers that will do much, much more for you. You could even go OB bass if you wanted. The challenge will be matching the efficiency. (Worth pointing out that two of those in a ported box would produce inaudible bass compared to the mids/highs 8 would put out at higher frequencies). Biamping would make it really easy, if that is an option. I'd think about a high pass on the widebands (to limit excursion and thus lower distortion). If you are biamping, a single cap at line level would probably do the trick. Another option is to put the widebanders into a sealed box, as it would also limit excursion. With either sealed or OB widebanders, you could also use a solution like the Bottlehead S.E.X.y. speaker: cheap prebuilt parts express (or similar) subs for the bass with the widebanders setting on top.
If you come up with a good solution for the bass, you could have some really excellent speakers!
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
If you come up with a good solution for the bass, you could have some really excellent speakers!
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.