They have what's best described as a warm sonic signature in my experience.
Compared to 0.1% Welwyn metal films in the same application (in series with the signal path), the subjective changes are less bass, a smoother less detailed (but more enjoyable mid range) and a slight rounding of edge definition at HF. In short, they can help things sound less clinical and a tad more enjoyable on bad recordings - I guess kinda like 2nd harmonic distortion.
-Raja
Compared to 0.1% Welwyn metal films in the same application (in series with the signal path), the subjective changes are less bass, a smoother less detailed (but more enjoyable mid range) and a slight rounding of edge definition at HF. In short, they can help things sound less clinical and a tad more enjoyable on bad recordings - I guess kinda like 2nd harmonic distortion.
-Raja
Interesting. Almost the entire opposite of my impressions
They are obviously abit warmer than say, Caddock, but your descriptions seems more appropriate for carbon resistors than tantalums. Then again, it's probably essential to involve brand particulars. My impressions are mostly based on Shinkoh.I compared the AudioNote tantalum to Riken carbon in the cathode bias in my 5687 tube linestage. the tants has a more sense of air around the high notes where the carbons sounded fuller and rounded. the tants give the impression of cleaner lines between the mids and highs, but a tad softer in the bass department where the carbons fare better with firmer and richer bottoms. at the end of the tests, i decided that the tants are sounding too 'hi-fi' and the carbons remained in the circuit.
Bybee Quantum Purifier.what is BB QP?
Threads and much discussion on this forum.
Eric.
Eric,
The Welwyns are specially trimmed metal film resistors - they sound clean across the audible range and are supposed to exhibit a better SNR ratio when used in the signal path. How is this in conflict with the sound I described of the tantalums, that you've quoted above?
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This description is very close to my experience. Shinkoh are marginally better sounding than Audio Note and non-magnetic but the general sound is very similar. Apparently the tantalums Raj1 has used are very different.
Not necessarily, that's a comparison of tantalum types to carbon (which are known for being very warm and muddy) - the tants are less warm than carbons but are definitely warmer than metal film types.
from Borbely Audio (now retired)
"We have been experimenting with a number of different type resistors and found the non-magnetic Shinkoh Tantalum resistors to solve some of the problems mentioned. They
sound less dry than the metalfilms and they do not emphasize any particular frequency range. They sound more natural, more musical. They work equally well in semiconductor
and tube amplifiers. Most of the customers, who tried the tantalums, say that they would never go back to the common metalfilm type resistors.
Having said that, some also said that the tantalums sound too “nice”, with less control in bass and a touch less “presence” in the midrange. Further experiments with resistors led us
to the Caddock MK-132, which are also non-magnetic. These are also metalfilm resistors, but they do not exhibit the typical “metallic” character of the metalfilms. They sound
very clean with good dynamics, focus and a very good control of bass. Unfortunately, they are very expensive. Although you can build a whole amplifier with only Caddocks
(which we do in our top-of-the line custom made amps!), it is not necessary. To take advantage of their unique sonic qualities it is usually enough to put Caddocks in the input
stage and the feedback network. A combination of Tantalums and Caddocks gives the best result in most amplifiers.
Unfortunately, the Shinkoh tantalum resistors are no longer manufactured, and although we still have a sizable stock, they will disappear when this stock is exhausted. We are
looking for resistors that can replace the tantalums."
.
"We have been experimenting with a number of different type resistors and found the non-magnetic Shinkoh Tantalum resistors to solve some of the problems mentioned. They
sound less dry than the metalfilms and they do not emphasize any particular frequency range. They sound more natural, more musical. They work equally well in semiconductor
and tube amplifiers. Most of the customers, who tried the tantalums, say that they would never go back to the common metalfilm type resistors.
Having said that, some also said that the tantalums sound too “nice”, with less control in bass and a touch less “presence” in the midrange. Further experiments with resistors led us
to the Caddock MK-132, which are also non-magnetic. These are also metalfilm resistors, but they do not exhibit the typical “metallic” character of the metalfilms. They sound
very clean with good dynamics, focus and a very good control of bass. Unfortunately, they are very expensive. Although you can build a whole amplifier with only Caddocks
(which we do in our top-of-the line custom made amps!), it is not necessary. To take advantage of their unique sonic qualities it is usually enough to put Caddocks in the input
stage and the feedback network. A combination of Tantalums and Caddocks gives the best result in most amplifiers.
Unfortunately, the Shinkoh tantalum resistors are no longer manufactured, and although we still have a sizable stock, they will disappear when this stock is exhausted. We are
looking for resistors that can replace the tantalums."
.
Which series of Welwyn do you use?
I cant find laser-trimmed ones on their website... I'm curious and i'd like to try them.
Objectively, bulk metal foils and probably low Tc wirewounds are probably the best resistors of all; they are rather expensive too. Especially Vishay's Z-foil resistors, which have an extremely low Tc (< 1ppm) and voltage coefficient. Tantalum resistors that I've seen don't have any specification for those parameters at all; carbon films are mostly way, way out to the other end of the range, which may account for their more colored sound.
Can't go wrong with Caddocks, either. I'd go with any 25 ppm metal film type you can find, if price is a consideration.
Can't go wrong with Caddocks, either. I'd go with any 25 ppm metal film type you can find, if price is a consideration.
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