My unfinished gaincline chassis

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6mm aluminium, 430x280x75mm

Here are a few pictures:
 

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I bought the plates from a company that works with aluminium, near strasbourg

I drilled the holes with a (don't know if it's the correct word in english) stand-driller (a big driller on a stand). Holes are 5mm, with a chamfering for the screws

the "inner holes" were drilled with 4.2mm and then I made a M5 tapping
 
Peter Daniel said:
I would place it in a center.


OK :)

Peter, any comments about my case? I know I'm still far from your artwork skills, but I'd like to know what you think about my first chassis.


The problem I've got with it (the only one for now):
the top (and bottom) plates are "inside" the others, not other and under. I did it because of aesthetics, this way when you look at the amp (in front of it) you only see the front plate, ant not the front plate with the left/right/top/bottom plates all around of it.

but I have difficulties to put the top plate off, it's strongly hol in place by the other plates when they are screwed
 
Bricolo said:
now I'm wondering how I'm going to place all my gainclone's components in it :scratch:

should I place the toroid in the center, ant then each channel at one side?

or place the toroid in an edge or a side?


Placing it in the center leads to a very balanced amplifier weight wise. But unless you plan on moving it a lot...this isn't all that critical. Lots of amplifiers do this, but they usually have heatsinks for each channel on either side of the amp. So this layout makes sense for them.

However, I would place it on one side, bringing the AC into the chassis on that same side. Signal in would come in on the far opposite side, to minimize noise. Loudspeaker out would come out of the chassis nearer the signal in than the AC in. This keeps your AC as far away as possible. In fact I have seen, and have made designs where an aluminum/steel divider is placed between the transformer/rectifiers and bulk capacitance and the signal portions of the design. This creates a Faraday cage around the noisy parts.

Toroids can and do leak EM noise, especially around the input/output wiring.

Scott
 
Very nicely done and there is not much to improve here. If the top panel is too tight, you might try to trim it a bit, with belt sander (if available).

This chassis style is very similar to what PassLabs use, the only exception is that top panel is placed over the rear panel and this helps to open the cover (and provides some extra rigidity)
 

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Rarkov said:
As I have just written on another thread...
Absolutley stunning! People are actually catching up with PD's standards! (I'm just trying to nudge him into doing something outstanding! ;))

Keep up the great work and pictures. The name for the drill you were using is called a Pillar Drill.

Gaz
Thanks, Gaz


Teach me some english, please :) Online translators don't work for those technical words

what's the name for all those tools?
 

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millwood said:
I would place the transformer on the far back (either left or right depending on where your power line comes in).


You are not saying that because of my suggestion to place it in a center?

My reasoning to put it centrally is following. This is quite a big chassis by GC standards. If this is stereo amp, you should definitely use dual mono layout, with ea channel on either side and probably using side panels for heatsinking. This leaves the center space empty and it's a perfect place to mount transformer, or maybe even two. Also AC input should be placed centrally and both RCA jacks and binding posts separate on both ends of rear panel. Placing transformer centrally makes for better balanced chassis as well, not to mention having the same resonances for both channels;)
 
Peter Daniel said:
Very nicely done and there is not much to improve here. If the top panel is too tight, you might try to trim it a bit, with belt sander (if available).

This chassis style is very similar to what PassLabs use, the only exception is that top panel is placed over the rear panel and this helps to open the cover (and provides some extra rigidity)


You're the man, Peter!
I didn't think about this solution. It's too late now, but I keep it in mind for the next time.

BTW, how is this pass chassis done for the bottom? The same as for the top? layong over the back plate?
 
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