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Tube Lab Simple SE "kit" parts

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M

Mungo Park

Member
Joined 2009
OK I have the board and power transformer, I was hopeing George could get the kit bag partrs together. I am a nubie if nubies and would like to buy the parts all as one. I could order from the parts list but when it runs to out of stock and subing other parts I figure I would go off the rails, adding to the complication of putting them together.
Any hint of the "kit" comming together. If not Maybe plan "B" could be that
if somebody is ordering parts they could order double and I could compensate them for their trouble.( I know this is reaching a bit)


Cheers Ron.
 
neonthecat

neonthecat

Member
Joined 2010
Obtaining parts in Canada

Ron,

George has talked about offering kits with parts, particularly for the Simple Push-Pull. But, don't hold your breath...he's a busy guy with a real job!

So, don't be afraid to order from the Canadian website of DigiKey. They will ship your order out in 2 days via UPS, without the punitive brokerage charges and other fees that UPS usually adds on to Cdn. shipments. I have nothing but good things to say about their service. They stock just about everything you'll need to do the SSE. I also use another Cdn. supplier for tubes, sockets and caps: The Tubestore.com. Again, an excellent outfit with great selection and service. Good luck with your project!
 
M

Mungo Park

Member
Joined 2009
Since I bought the board i might as well see it through.
OK Cat I will go for it.
Nikon1975, if you do not mind I will take you up on your offer, very nice of you.
By the way i have a 1972 Nikon, close, bit of a paperweight now bit I would never part with it, it earned me a living for a few years, long before autofocus.
I will PM you.
Yes I realize George has a lot on the go, and it seems the "kit" is well intended but to may irons in the fire. Cheers Ron.
 
Tubelab_com

Tubelab_com

Member
Joined 2005
tubelab.com
Yes I realize George has a lot on the go, and it seems the "kit" is well intended but to may irons in the fire. Cheers Ron.
Click to expand...

Lack of time is a major factor (10+ hour work days), but economics is another. In order to be able to sell the parts kits for a reasonable price, I need to purchase the parts in a large enough quantity to recover the shipping charges and our time. It looks like the magic number is 100 pieces of each part. Board sales dropped off the cliff when the economy died, and now run about 2 or 3 boards per week total. The cost of the PC boards have risen about 40% since I started selling them, so rather than raise my prices I have been buying them in larger quantities. The recent purchase of 100 Tubelab SE boards has made further large purchases impossible right now.

I will have to look, I may have 3 or 4 sets of components for the Simple SE's left over from some amps that I built last year.
 
M

Mungo Park

Member
Joined 2009
George, thanks for the response. If you have a bag of parts, well great and a big thanks for going the extra mile for a nubie. Kudos to you.:D And I must say you are a great guy and I did not start this thread to imply anything remotely negative.
If it is not in the cards I will order them from Mouser with the help of Nikon1957's order form to help me along.
If you find the bag, you can find me at mookie1@autobahn.mb.ca

Cheers Ron.
 
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Ty_Bower

Ty_Bower

Member
Joined 2007
M

Mungo Park

Member
Joined 2009
Well here is the list Nikon sent me, I hope he dose not mind me posting it.

https://ca.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=822e07a6cc

Three things on back order:confused:

Which is about as good as it is going to get I figure:

1)Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 63volts 1500uF 18x35.5 20% 7.5LS

2) Wirewound Resistors 150ohms 5% Tol

3)Rectifiers 8A 1200V STEALTH

TY_if you have any time to look at these 3 items that would be great and I will be able to place the order before more parts go out of stock.

Cheers Ron.
 
I

imnewbie

Member
Joined 2010
I'm locating parts for my KT-88 build. If someone has time to look up missing parts for me I'd appreciate it.

Mouser's wait list is 12wk. long for 283-150K-RC, anyone recommend a replacement for me?
Heat sinks are out at Digikey(HS 189). Allied elec. has them. Is there any other part at Mouser or digikey that can be used?

Also which part to get for R17 and R27 if I want to use KT88 tubes?

Although I'm not so keen on it, I've read someone wired the amp in a way that he can swap with other tubes(el34,6v6 etc.) without re-wiring. How is that done, I mean which part at R17 and R27 would allow that?
 
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I

imnewbie

Member
Joined 2010
Ty_Bower said:
How about 594-5093NW150K0J?
Click to expand...

What is the difference between metal film and metal oxide? Does this resistor have to be metal oxide? I recall reading somewhere few months ago that George only recommended using metal oxide at R2 and not some other material since he used some other material and was not as happy about it as using metal oxide R.

BTW does it matter that this part has higher voltage compared to original part?
 
N

no gas

Member
Joined 2010
You can always use higher voltage parts than spec'ed. They are usually larger in size and more expensive. The plus is safety factor and usually lower ESR in caps. Never use a lower voltage part than the max voltage it will be used at, you will let the smoke monster out.:eek:
 
F

fandersen

Member
Joined 2010
imnewbie said:
Mouser's wait list is 12wk. long for 283-150K-RC, anyone recommend a replacement for me?
Click to expand...
You can use two 2W resistors in parallel. See http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/140499-another-tubelab-simplese-build.html starting at #9.

imnewbie said:
Heat sinks are out at Digikey(HS 189). Allied elec. has them. Is there any other part at Mouser or digikey that can be used?
Click to expand...
I used Digi-key HS279-ND

imnewbie said:
Also which part to get for R17 and R27 if I want to use KT88 tubes?

Although I'm not so keen on it, I've read someone wired the amp in a way that he can swap with other tubes(el34,6v6 etc.) without re-wiring. How is that done, I mean which part at R17 and R27 would allow that?
Click to expand...
See http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/132402-yasse-yet-another-simple-se-build-4.html posting #37. George also talked about this in another post but I can't find it right now.
 
Ty_Bower

Ty_Bower

Member
Joined 2007
imnewbie said:
What is the difference between metal film and metal oxide? Does this resistor have to be metal oxide? I recall reading somewhere few months ago that George only recommended using metal oxide at R2...
Click to expand...

George describes some of the differences between films and oxides here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/125250-simple-simple-se-questions.html#post1974077

Another difference worth mentioning is that metal oxides generally tend to be flameproof, while metal films are not as much. The Vishay datasheet doesn't seem to say anything about flameproof, only describing the part as a "power resistor". At R2, this part could be drawing about 3.3 mA at 500 VDC. That's 1.66 watts. I'd say a three watt part is the minimum here for safety. The five watt resistors are usually about an inch long. If you wanted to try to fit one of them on the board, you might be able to mount it "Japanese style", with one end down near the board and the other end sticking up in the air.

I'll keep searching and see if I can find and posts from George specifically referencing R2.
 
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