Hi guys,
I've searched and found a fair bit of info on this topic. Many seem to use a table saw with a non-ferrous metal cutting blade.
I want to cut 3mm aluminium alloy sheet for the bottom and top of a power amp, so max length of cut is around 400mm.
As I don't have a table saw, but do have a Makita 6" circular saw, I was thinking of buying a metal cutting blade and cutting the ally most of the way through, then snapping it and filing. The idea is to cobble up a guide either side with the lot clamped down to a table, and just go slow. I have 1" square steel tubing for the guides. I reckon if I do it this way, it'll be straight but will avoid the issues with grabbing you'd get with a full cut right through. I'm happy to finish with a series of files. I don't fancy my alternative of using a hacksaw with the blade turned 90 degrees (I'm only taking about 40mm off each side).
Advice please: does this sound safe enough to do by hand?
I don't know what grade the alloy is.
Cheers
Stuey
I've searched and found a fair bit of info on this topic. Many seem to use a table saw with a non-ferrous metal cutting blade.
I want to cut 3mm aluminium alloy sheet for the bottom and top of a power amp, so max length of cut is around 400mm.
As I don't have a table saw, but do have a Makita 6" circular saw, I was thinking of buying a metal cutting blade and cutting the ally most of the way through, then snapping it and filing. The idea is to cobble up a guide either side with the lot clamped down to a table, and just go slow. I have 1" square steel tubing for the guides. I reckon if I do it this way, it'll be straight but will avoid the issues with grabbing you'd get with a full cut right through. I'm happy to finish with a series of files. I don't fancy my alternative of using a hacksaw with the blade turned 90 degrees (I'm only taking about 40mm off each side).
Advice please: does this sound safe enough to do by hand?
I don't know what grade the alloy is.
Cheers
Stuey
It could get dangerous
Another issue is damage to plate surface
Which may occur when using a less dangerous jigsaw
Your best option is to use a regular simple metal handsaw
I dont know what its called in english
But you can angle the blade for this kind of work
Special alu cutting blades with bigger toothing for a handsaw dont cost much
With proper markings, and slowly careful working, its no big deal
But if you clamp the alu plate between to pieces of wood, a jigsaw would be easy to use, and not harm the plate
There are also special files for alu work, may cost though
But with no tablesaw, I would get the best precision by using a handsaw(hacksaw?), very carefully
But sure, it takes practice
Another issue is damage to plate surface
Which may occur when using a less dangerous jigsaw
Your best option is to use a regular simple metal handsaw
I dont know what its called in english
But you can angle the blade for this kind of work
Special alu cutting blades with bigger toothing for a handsaw dont cost much
With proper markings, and slowly careful working, its no big deal
But if you clamp the alu plate between to pieces of wood, a jigsaw would be easy to use, and not harm the plate
There are also special files for alu work, may cost though
But with no tablesaw, I would get the best precision by using a handsaw(hacksaw?), very carefully
But sure, it takes practice
fwiw...I have successively cut 1/8" aluminum with my radial arm saw many times. Provided your hand circular saw is of good quality I think you can do what you suggest. When cutting the metal, I suggest you drag the saw through rather than push it through . This might mean removing the guard on your saw. I use a normal carbide blade without any damage to the material . Guides should be very sturdy and secured well.
Good luck!!!
Good luck!!!
I am in the final stages of assembling the preamp that I built. I'm using 1/16" aluminum for top and bottom. I bought the metal at http://www.onlinemetals.com/ - which happens to be within a reasonable drive from my house. I cut a 36x36 inch sheet into smaller pieces using a friend's table saw. Standard run of the mill Craftman saw with a 10", 96-tooth metal cutting blade. It worked quite well once I had the fence set right. I don't see any reason you wouldn't be able to do the same with a circular saw.
I've also cut a 1" thick block with the same setup. Just go slow... It worked.
~ Tom
I've also cut a 1" thick block with the same setup. Just go slow... It worked.
~ Tom
Magura said:
He is gonna need that
Magura
I was actually looking for constructive comments from people who know and who've tried it, or something similar. I'm no idiot, and am quite skilled in all sorts of DIY fabrication. I'm also no beginner, and can generally make, build or repair most things.
I genuinely thought scoring the ally to 2mm would have been a doddle (and still do) but without experience I just don't know about catching of the material etc.
This does not mean that I won't take advice, though, and given the number of negatives I'll probably take them to the metal shop.
Like many, though, I just like to do things myself. But not at the expense of my fingers or something...
Incidentally, I bought the metal from a place which cuts it using high pressure water and a garnet media, computer controlled. They could do it, but it's inconvenient and OTT for such a job. These were offcuts from the inside of ambulance window cutouts.
[Tomchr: 1/16" can be cut using a Stanley knife to repeatedly score the line, then carefully bending a slight bit back and forth until it snaps, then draw filing with a fine file. I've done this many times with perfect results. Just don't bend it too far.]
Cheers
Stuey
I hear what you're saying Stuey. I like to do things myself too. It's ultimately far more satisfying, but sometimes I stand there in my shed after several hours of frustration thinking "Why the hell didn't I just take this to a workshop (or wherever)".
Just on a slight tangent, I am totally amazed at how thick a metal plate those water cutters can cut! And soooo clean! Have fun.
Just on a slight tangent, I am totally amazed at how thick a metal plate those water cutters can cut! And soooo clean! Have fun.
Yes; I went there to have some holes cut through 10mm thick porcelain tiles I was laying, around power outlets. The cut was perfect. The job before mine was a series of 30mm granite slabs that were being cut to square. The edge was like it had been sanded (which I guess it had!).
The proprietor was so proud of his machine he showed me all around it. I believe he said it ran at up to 100,000psi.
Cheers
Stu
The proprietor was so proud of his machine he showed me all around it. I believe he said it ran at up to 100,000psi.
Cheers
Stu
theAnonymous1 said:Perhaps you should check and see how much Front Panel Express would cost to create and ship the panels for you. It might just be cheaper than the medical bills you would end up with trying to use a circular saw.
Actually, probably not cheaper with postage...
Stuey - living in 'the most isolated city in the world' (TM)
Stuey said:
I use a 2kW/10" Hitachi circular saw with a carbide tip blade to saw Trespa phenolic resin panels to size, is harder surface stuff than aluminum.
Guiding the saw on both sides and go through the full 3 mm material height would work safely, the saw would remain in the material if the blade bites.
The way you intend to saw the aluminum panels will be difficult without removing/fixating the safe guard.
Not sawing fully through will make the circular saw jump when it bites, 3mm will be more difficult to saw than 10.
Slicing 3 feet of 10mm aluminum panels is a piece of cake with my 16" carbide blade table saw.
I also assume to have the world's largest private scar collection, ranging from bullet and stab wound residu to various shapes of cut, hack, and saw marks.
Cheers Jacco. I wasn't suggesting anyone here hasn't tried it, just that no one gave any indications of the actual issues faced. So you're suggesting that, were I to try it, I should go right through?
Just interested, but I will almost certainly get them cut by a sheet metal working shop. There's one about 4km from home. I'm sure they'd guillotine/shear all the cuts in a matter of minutes. Not worth the risk, in other words.
I've had enough time in hospital this year...
Stu
Just interested, but I will almost certainly get them cut by a sheet metal working shop. There's one about 4km from home. I'm sure they'd guillotine/shear all the cuts in a matter of minutes. Not worth the risk, in other words.
I've had enough time in hospital this year...
Stu
Magura said:
He is gonna need that
Magura
Stuey said:
Exactly my point.
I happen to be fairly familiar with metal work, and what you were thinking of doing, I would never even consider, it's just not worth the risk.
....but don't get me wrong, it's not like I have a problem giving advice regarding stuff like this, as long as I know that my advice is not going to cause a risk, which it would in this case.
So, work safe, stay clear of what should not be done with the equipment and skills/experience at hand, and I'll happily help you.
Magura
Another suggestion that works for me.
If you have a wood router, you can use an 1/8" carbide bit and cutting oil and rout through the aluminum. Use the bar as a guide and you can probably make a nice, clean, fast cut. Make sure to use a good cutting oil too.
This may sound odd, and naturally has its dangers as do all power tools, but I've done this many times with excellent results. Make sure to make slow passes and keep firm pressure on the router because if it jumps, it will chip the carbide bit and ruin it. I just used cheap Chinese carbide bits that ran $8 USD for 3 pcs and they worked great. My router is a standard 1HP Craftsman.
Plus, if you have the router and bits, this is a great primer for other aluminum routing projects that may let you enhance your metal projects by routing out holes, making recessed pockets, fancy angles/bevels/curves, etc.
Naturally, be careful, wear eye/ear protection, and plan all moves in advance with the material fully supported.
Enjoy,
Paul
If you have a wood router, you can use an 1/8" carbide bit and cutting oil and rout through the aluminum. Use the bar as a guide and you can probably make a nice, clean, fast cut. Make sure to use a good cutting oil too.
This may sound odd, and naturally has its dangers as do all power tools, but I've done this many times with excellent results. Make sure to make slow passes and keep firm pressure on the router because if it jumps, it will chip the carbide bit and ruin it. I just used cheap Chinese carbide bits that ran $8 USD for 3 pcs and they worked great. My router is a standard 1HP Craftsman.
Plus, if you have the router and bits, this is a great primer for other aluminum routing projects that may let you enhance your metal projects by routing out holes, making recessed pockets, fancy angles/bevels/curves, etc.
Naturally, be careful, wear eye/ear protection, and plan all moves in advance with the material fully supported.
Enjoy,
Paul
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