Hi everybody,
This is my first post here and I need couple of information!
I try to search forum but there's no any result about tweaking
bellow mentioned CD player. (or I really can't see...)
I already got service manual and good will.....just to start
"tweaking"
Thanks in advance and best regards!
![URL]](/community/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2F%5BURL%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fimg193.imageshack.us%2Fi%2Fcdpx555es1.jpg%2F%5D%5BIMGDEAD%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fimg193.imageshack.us%2Fimg193%2F1200%2Fcdpx555es1.jpg%5B%2FIMGDEAD%5D%5B%2FURL%5D&hash=2d5a61f4c06f5ae69c8f29d549ed7bda)
This is my first post here and I need couple of information!
I try to search forum but there's no any result about tweaking
bellow mentioned CD player. (or I really can't see...)
I already got service manual and good will.....just to start
"tweaking"
Thanks in advance and best regards!
I did some changes on a CDP-X55ES which is very similar. All that was done was to change op amps, output caps and power supply caps that feed the op amps.
Output caps were changed to Blackgate NX (Nichicon ES work as well or better IMO) and removed the MKP by-pass caps. The power supply caps were changed to Nichicon FG.
I've tried changing the 2 output opamps (1 left ch, 1 right ch) using OPA2134, AD825 and LM4562 but leaving the preceding 5532 op amps. I also tried changing all 4 op amps to OPA2134 and LM4562.
The best results by far were using the 4 LM4562 giving better resolution (removed the haze) and added smoothness to the sound. Compared to a Cambridge 840C, it's a bit smoother (more refined?) but loses a slight amount of detail retrieval. I swing between the 2 players depending on the CD used.
The use of 2 OPA2134 or AD825 made the player more up front and lively but fatiguing in the long term. Using 4 OPA2134 was way too much and head ache material.
The player sounded very good before but a little polite and restrained for my tastes but these small changes gave a nice lift in sonics. I have no desire to carry out any further mods like clock, power supply, regs etc.
Output caps were changed to Blackgate NX (Nichicon ES work as well or better IMO) and removed the MKP by-pass caps. The power supply caps were changed to Nichicon FG.
I've tried changing the 2 output opamps (1 left ch, 1 right ch) using OPA2134, AD825 and LM4562 but leaving the preceding 5532 op amps. I also tried changing all 4 op amps to OPA2134 and LM4562.
The best results by far were using the 4 LM4562 giving better resolution (removed the haze) and added smoothness to the sound. Compared to a Cambridge 840C, it's a bit smoother (more refined?) but loses a slight amount of detail retrieval. I swing between the 2 players depending on the CD used.
The use of 2 OPA2134 or AD825 made the player more up front and lively but fatiguing in the long term. Using 4 OPA2134 was way too much and head ache material.
The player sounded very good before but a little polite and restrained for my tastes but these small changes gave a nice lift in sonics. I have no desire to carry out any further mods like clock, power supply, regs etc.
Op-amp changing is always a possibility, these will change the character of the sound. You could also try to optimize some of the surrounding circuitry.
Sinse this player was on the market, there has been substantial development going on in especially the electrolytic capacitor business.
In the digital part of the player, there are circuits that controls laser servo, digital processing amongst other things, they do need power en very short current pulses. This places substantial demands for low impedance powersupplies, which normally is accomodated by the means of ceramic decoupling capacitors near these circuits.
This helps, but the recharging of these ceramics also has to be fast, which again puts stress on the smoothing caps. Low impedance caps has become available lately, Panasonic FM is a cap like that, they keep most of the common values in the programme, and they are ekstremely low impedance compared to anything incl. Oscon, which only goes in small values.
The FM´s can also be used in the analog stage, larger values can be found in their FC series, but also Sanyo carries very low impedance series.
I´d pay attention to this, it´s easy, it´s cheap, and it will make the sound a lot more smooth and less "digital".
Sinse this player was on the market, there has been substantial development going on in especially the electrolytic capacitor business.
In the digital part of the player, there are circuits that controls laser servo, digital processing amongst other things, they do need power en very short current pulses. This places substantial demands for low impedance powersupplies, which normally is accomodated by the means of ceramic decoupling capacitors near these circuits.
This helps, but the recharging of these ceramics also has to be fast, which again puts stress on the smoothing caps. Low impedance caps has become available lately, Panasonic FM is a cap like that, they keep most of the common values in the programme, and they are ekstremely low impedance compared to anything incl. Oscon, which only goes in small values.
The FM´s can also be used in the analog stage, larger values can be found in their FC series, but also Sanyo carries very low impedance series.
I´d pay attention to this, it´s easy, it´s cheap, and it will make the sound a lot more smooth and less "digital".
Thank You guys.....rabbitz/Kurt von Kubik!
I suppose to do, let we say, a "light" tweak,...caps, resistors,....maybe OP amps but what I need is precisely marked, which parts on schematic diagram with same (or changed-whatever) values, types, etc.
If is possible, I can send you service manual of CDP-X555ES and it will be great to have it back with marked parts for replacement/tweak!!!
Thanks in advance!
I suppose to do, let we say, a "light" tweak,...caps, resistors,....maybe OP amps but what I need is precisely marked, which parts on schematic diagram with same (or changed-whatever) values, types, etc.
If is possible, I can send you service manual of CDP-X555ES and it will be great to have it back with marked parts for replacement/tweak!!!
Thanks in advance!
IC407, IC408, IC507, IC508 change to LM4562.
C414, C514 change to Blackgate N (or Nx) or Nichicon ES as are the signal output caps.
C415, C515 remove by-pass caps as not required after doing the above change.
C434, C534 change to Nichicon FG, KZ, Panasonic FC, Elna Cerafine or similar good power supply cap.
Look at the LM4562 datasheet about by-pass or power supply requirements. Op amps can benefit from a 100nF by-pass across pin 4 to 8.
Stick with the original cap values to be safe.
IC406, IC506 are the de-emphasis op amps and maybe they may be changed to something better as they are straight after the DAC and in the signal path.
You can always add good quality IC sockets so you can try the op amps without soldering and desoldering.
Do one change at a time and listen before proceding so you know if each change is beneficial or not.
That's all the stuff I've done.... cheers.
C414, C514 change to Blackgate N (or Nx) or Nichicon ES as are the signal output caps.
C415, C515 remove by-pass caps as not required after doing the above change.
C434, C534 change to Nichicon FG, KZ, Panasonic FC, Elna Cerafine or similar good power supply cap.
Look at the LM4562 datasheet about by-pass or power supply requirements. Op amps can benefit from a 100nF by-pass across pin 4 to 8.
Stick with the original cap values to be safe.
IC406, IC506 are the de-emphasis op amps and maybe they may be changed to something better as they are straight after the DAC and in the signal path.
You can always add good quality IC sockets so you can try the op amps without soldering and desoldering.
Do one change at a time and listen before proceding so you know if each change is beneficial or not.
That's all the stuff I've done.... cheers.
I have recently modded this exact player and would actually recommend against doing it. What I did: replaced 100uF output caps c414/514 with Nichicon Muse 100uF (same value), removed 0.47uF bypass cap c415/515, replaced op amps IC407/507 (mix/ line amp) and IC408/508 (low pass filter) with LM4562 and then LM833 and then AD823.
Whilst the sound was definitely clearer and less hazy with these changes, the player lost some of its sense of richness and soundstage - it sounded more digital and flattened. It sort of modernised the sound but not in an improved way. Also the improved components allowed for a bit more top end "fizz" from the DAC to come through. I lived with this for a couple of months before returning the unit to stock. My feeling when moving back to stock was that the player became more musical with better focus and instrument placement.
So this player was designed by Sony as state of the art at the time with appropriate sound. It has massive deep bass, a sense of image and soundstage, and an analog richness and warmth. Sorry to disappoint modders, I feel it was better left as stock.
The shortcomings of this player - if any - are that it loses a bit of focus when getting busy - during complex passages the mid range seems to mash together slightly - compared to a modern CDP/ DAC (of proper calibre) - which maintains its image and focus a lot better. And there is a slight element of 'haze'. But overall one of the true great players of its time.
I have owned several players including a Denon DCD2560, Cambridge Audio 640C, Yamaha CDX-1050, Marantz CD63, and this Sony easily beat all of them. It's a highly desirable player because its sound is massive and rich.
What I'm listening with: electrocompaniet ECP-3 amp, EPOS Epic 5 speakers.
Whilst the sound was definitely clearer and less hazy with these changes, the player lost some of its sense of richness and soundstage - it sounded more digital and flattened. It sort of modernised the sound but not in an improved way. Also the improved components allowed for a bit more top end "fizz" from the DAC to come through. I lived with this for a couple of months before returning the unit to stock. My feeling when moving back to stock was that the player became more musical with better focus and instrument placement.
So this player was designed by Sony as state of the art at the time with appropriate sound. It has massive deep bass, a sense of image and soundstage, and an analog richness and warmth. Sorry to disappoint modders, I feel it was better left as stock.
The shortcomings of this player - if any - are that it loses a bit of focus when getting busy - during complex passages the mid range seems to mash together slightly - compared to a modern CDP/ DAC (of proper calibre) - which maintains its image and focus a lot better. And there is a slight element of 'haze'. But overall one of the true great players of its time.
I have owned several players including a Denon DCD2560, Cambridge Audio 640C, Yamaha CDX-1050, Marantz CD63, and this Sony easily beat all of them. It's a highly desirable player because its sound is massive and rich.
What I'm listening with: electrocompaniet ECP-3 amp, EPOS Epic 5 speakers.
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