bass speaker help

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hey, i know nothing about speakers. I've blown a 15 and now a 10.
I play a 5 string bass with high c, i like the crunch sound similar to that of an old mesa tube amp cranked. i currently play through a hartke system, i like the sound of the aluminum cones. any ideas on what speakers would be better for this type of sound for bass guitar?
i'm willing/capable to build. i thought that a 12" might be a good route but i don't have a clue, i just play.
 
I'd say you need a cab with good midrange definition like a two- or three way system.
Since you are here, I guess you are a DIY guy, so why not build your own cab.
There's a guy, Bill Fitzmaurice, who design PA cabs. There are many bass players on his forum who praise those 2-3 way PA cabs for bass.
He sell the plans for $15 or so.
I have build one of his small 1x10" cabs and the midrange clarity is beyond every commercial cabs I've heard.
I would consider an Omni 12 TB or an Omni 15 TB. Both 3-way.
http://www.billfitzmaurice.net/
There's a lot of helpful guys on the forum. There's a lot of tech stuff too.

Henrik
 
I know this is an old thread, but I wouldn't use a 3012LF alone without an upper midrange driver as it drops like a stone from 1.8 kHz.
With a crossover point that low you will squeeze the butt out of a tweeter.
A midrange speaker arrangement could be two Alpha 6A in a small seperate chamber crossed at 1 kHz.
 
I firmly believe that you can't have enough power for a bass amp. What really causes a speaker to blow is driving the amp too hard rather than exceeding the limits of the speaker. My rig: Ampeg SVP Pro tube preamp, Crown CE 1000 power amp (bridged mono; 900watts rms@8 ohms, 1100watts rms @ 4 ohms) a Hartke 115XL cab with a Eminence Kappa Pro LF 15" and a Foster compression horn tweeter added. My basses are stock 1969 and 1973 Fender Precisions. I play mostly classic rock and this rig will get louder than I need, even outside. IMHOP, 400 watts is not enough for a bass amp if you're playing loud rock. BTW, those Hartke aluminum cone speakers sound ok but can't handle much power.
 
The 3015LF will handle full bore down to 45 Hz because of the large Xmax. That's a hell of a lot noise.
The difference between 400W and 900W is sore 4 dB or so, hardly noticable and most of most of the extra power is wasted by heating the voice coil into power compression.
Going with a larger number of, or more sensitive, speakers makes sense.

Of course head room is your friend, but 400W into a 3015LF is roughly 125 dB, 200W is 3 dB down at 122 dB.
If you need that high sound pressure on stage, you should either hire a PA or find another band who can control their stage volume :whazzat:
 
vinylguy said:
My point was that headroom is everything as far as bass goes. Of course, I don't use all that power and the tone is is wonderful, very deep and clean. Since I'm a hi fi enthusiast, I value my hearing!

"WHAT???" :D

I wish I had taken better care of my hearing when I was younger. I know how to wire up a PA, but I can't do the sound check because of a huge dip at 4 kHz.

But still you claim that 400W isn't enough.
I have been playing bass for 25 years and past the first two years or so (it had to be loud at that time :rolleyes: ) I have never had to crank an amp.
And that is:
Some old VOX 100W SS guitar amp
Marshall 100W tube
MusicMan 130W tube
Behringer 450W SS
Always on 8 ohm cabs.

I now have a GK 1001RB-II and it has way more power than I'll ever ask for, even at 8 ohm.
When I measure the output voltage at moderate playing level, it rarely exceed 20 volts average. That is only 50W into my 8 ohm SVT410HE.
Lets assume the peaks go as high as 25-30 volts, that's still only 110W.
 
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Joined 2005
For years I have wanted to build a nice bass rig

I feel now is the time

The popular 5-string basses obviously needs good lowend
Its mainly for home use and quality sound rather than highest SPL

This 12" hifi sub driver in a bandpass
http://www.hoejttalerbutikken.dk/product.asp?product=683

For midbass/midrange maybe 12" Eminence Deltalite?
Tweeter?
Top, Ashdown Little Giant 350W?
Fame(German)?
Traben?
 
Hi AndrewT.

I know dynamics increases output.
When measuring I used a standard multi meter and I took the max readings. This is higher than average and it is not peak either as the meter integrates the reading in some degree. So I'm certain my peaks are less than 10 dB.
I'm sorry for not being clear.

My point is that you don't need more than a couple of hundred watts on stage. If you do that something should be corrected.
If you can't cut through stage noise, the rest of the band is too loud.
If you need higher SPL to fill the room, what you really need is a PA.
400W into an 8 ohm/100 dB cab is around 125 dB, which is insanely loud on stage.
 
Hi tinitus, are you from Denmark?

I suppose you are going to use a passive crossover with this cabinet.
The cost of the components increases rapidly with lower crossover point.
And a low x-over point is a must with this driver.

But I don't understand why you plan on using a subwoofer with a 2512 as mid driver, the 2512 goes low enough alone and with higher sensivity, 99.9 vs 91 dB.
The dominant tone in the bass does not come from the fundamentals, but from the harmonics, especially the first.
So you really don't need to go lower than 60-70 Hz.

@ unclejed613
What do you mean? The AWM does NOT look like a Black Widow AT ALL. Neither by look or specifications.
http://www.peavey.com/products/browse.cfm/action/detail/item/116642/1208-4%20SPS%20BWX.cfm
 
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Joined 2005
Nordskov said:


1. Hi tinitus, are you from Denmark?

2. I suppose you are going to use a passive crossover with this cabinet.

3. The cost of the components increases rapidly with lower crossover point.
And a low x-over point is a must with this driver.

4. But I don't understand why you plan on using a subwoofer with a 2512 as mid driver, the 2512 goes low enough alone and with higher sensivity, 99.9 vs 91 dB.

5.The dominant tone in the bass does not come from the fundamentals, but from the harmonics, especially the first.
So you really don't need to go lower than 60-70 Hz.


1. sure am :)

2, No crossover

3. Sub is bandpass, no xo
Midbass rolls of by itself, in closed
Tweeters? I have 4 small Foster, they would need xo

4. Im not sure about it either
But a 5-string bass is said to do 30hz easily
But sure thats on loose string, which may not matter

5. Sure, I have my doubts about using that 90db 12", and I wouldnt suggest this to others
I suppose you are right about it

Probably much better to use double DeltaliteII-2515
But cost a bit more, but easier to build
Another thing is, I dont believe the response of these 10" woofers
I have never seen a small pro 10" 99db driver having any bass at all
I dont think its possible
Somethings wrong with those specs, or response curves

But nothing decided yet, and I will look at other options ;)
Crazy, it may never leave my house, but I just like those things :)

edit
Could be that the 2512 you mention is about right, and just around 90db in bass, and more than 100db above 1khz
Might result in clear clean crisp sound
 
1. Good for you in many occasions, but not when comes to prices on electronics and drivers ;)
Where are you in Denmark, I'm in Odense.

2. You should. Power is vasted outside bandpass.

3. What bandpass frequencies are you aiming at?

4. A B-string has a 31 Hz fundamental, but it's hardly noticeable compared to the prominent first harmonic at 62 Hz. That's why most commercial cabs don't go lower than 60-70 Hz.

5. :)

You are confusing me. The 2515 is 15", a 2512 is 12". Why are you talking about a 10"?

A 10" can go deep, it's a question of cab size and tuning.
Take a look on Acmebass.com. Andy uses the 10" BP102 from Eminence in his designs.

Eminence' data are known to be trustworthy ;)

I use a 2510 in a high tuned cab, it has a very crisp midrange which I love. Though not the same driver, I think the same applies to the 2512.

Don't you play in a band?
 
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