According to PE, this can be used with mid/bass at 2-4K Hz, can this be used in BiB with addition of the tweeter? (plan to xover at 2K).
any thoughts?
mid/bass:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=297-435
tweeter:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-035
gychang
any thoughts?
mid/bass:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=297-435
tweeter:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-035
gychang
Attachments
There's no reason not to make a two-way bib. I belive that 'Zilla has asked why he hasn't seen any yet.
There are plenty of good drivers out there that aren't "fullrange".
What were the critria for chosing this driver? Any specific design goals?
I was looking at something along the same lines but using this woofer here . It's nearly fullrange so you can bring in the tweeter up high and out of the "telephone band".
Has anyone here made a multi-way Bib?
edit: I got ninja'd on the driver by sreten.
There are plenty of good drivers out there that aren't "fullrange".
What were the critria for chosing this driver? Any specific design goals?
I was looking at something along the same lines but using this woofer here . It's nearly fullrange so you can bring in the tweeter up high and out of the "telephone band".
Has anyone here made a multi-way Bib?
edit: I got ninja'd on the driver by sreten.
gurley123 said:
I posted this at the BIB thread before:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1471558#post1471558
I did cross the tweeter ~9kHz to a 5" 'nearly' full range driver.
The drivers I used are not available in the US anymore afaik.
gychang said:
They would make a nice sized BIB. Not real sure about the kevlar cone, some do not like the sound. But, for the price, could be worth a try. As for the little 1.5k spike, dare I say it, a crossover. If so, definetely a little larger tweeter. This may all depend on what the intended use is though.
The driver gurley123 suggested looks very good, have been eyeballng it also. The qts is a bit more in the range for a horn.
Go on Zaphs and look at the specs and graphs of some of the lower end Seas midwoofers. They've got some great flat responses with nice, polite rolloffs up top, ideal for for running fullrange with supertweeters, and many make for only moderately sized BiB cabinets and should be able to handle fairly low tunings, to boot. I'm interested in this sort of arrangement myself, and have run pretty much everything 6" and under through the BiB spreadsheet, just to see, and some of the results were really promising. You're just looking for a reasonable combination of low Qts, low Vas and low Fs (and low $$ in my case, too).
Kensai
Kensai
gurley123 said:
On this Tangband how about an MLTL for it?
I have little experience with Tangband. I got the 871 and was disappointed in the area of efficiency.
The SPL is lower than the FE127e and the Xmax is higher. Vas is similar.
I've been itching to use a 5 in but don't want to invest in
the 6 inchers which would most conservatively be the FF165.
Can someone plug the Tang Band W5-704D 5-1/4" Woofer
into the Martin King prog for MLTL? Where's GM?
loninappleton said:
Spending most of my quality time dealing with personal stuff I feel I shouldn't have to in a country that claims to have a government 'by the people, for the people' and a justice system that claims you're 'innocent until proven guilty'........
Anyway, TB MLTL where Vb = Vas, Fb = Fs using published specs:
L = 22.75"
CSA = 33.42"^2
zdriver = 8.93"
zport = near/at the bottom
dport = 2"
Lport = 4"
All dims i.d. and approximate. Simmed stuffing density = 0.2 lbs/ft^3 polyfil.
GM
Attachments
GM said:
Spending most of my quality time dealing with personal stuff I feel I shouldn't have to in a country that claims to have a government 'by the people, for the people' and a justice system that claims you're 'innocent until proven guilty'........
Anyway, TB MLTL where Vb = Vas, Fb = Fs using published specs:
L = 22.75"
CSA = 33.42"^2
zdriver = 8.93"
zport = near/at the bottom
dport = 2"
Lport = 4"
All dims i.d. and approximate. Simmed stuffing density = 0.2 lbs/ft^3 polyfil.
GM
Thanks so much. This is very tempting. I have something I can use for a mock-up box on hand. But I'm still chary about Tangband and the power they need.
But I have to finish off my Franken-BIB. BIB and MLTL are the only
builds I've ever made pairs of. The trick is to get the clarity of the
MLTL with the depth of the rear horn of the BIB.
Later in the year I may step up to the plate for a Fonken or Mileva.
Lately I have been doing flush mounting of my FE127e's. But elsewhere it was said it's not necessary or productive. What's your take on that?
GM said:
If I wanted to bring the midrange forward on the bib what is the
best method? Currently there is regular poly fill in the peak, a piece of felt behind the driver. The driver has a 'bonnet' on it around the magnet to cancel reflections. Down in the bottom, there's about
a 1/2 inch of poly.
I have seen the felt ring on some designs.
If the flush mount is a waste, then I can save myself a bundle on
router gear and continue with the smaller tools I have.
We're getting 'thread drift' again. This should be in the bib thread.
Doesn't this driver have a fairly laid back response? If so, I don't know of a way with stuffing since as you increase it to roll off the pipe's gain it's damping the mids down too.
Many inexpensive drivers benefit from recessing, but as I periodically note, it's easy enough to do by just cutting a hole in a separate add on false baffle of a close enough thickness with a hole or jig saw. I didn't own or have access to a router during my prime speaker building years and never felt the need for one.
GM
Many inexpensive drivers benefit from recessing, but as I periodically note, it's easy enough to do by just cutting a hole in a separate add on false baffle of a close enough thickness with a hole or jig saw. I didn't own or have access to a router during my prime speaker building years and never felt the need for one.
GM
GM said:
Well the current build is not quite done yet. But the new one has a double baffle as you suggested to cleat the magnet at the rear.
So there's a four inch hole and a five inch hole in the interior baffle board-- no chamfering-- that would have gotten too close to the edge of my 6.75 width.
Far as laid back goes, the mids sound like they laid back in the slant some place.
I don't think a supra baffle would adequately correct for this.
I now have HD radio streams as a source so that might change the
audio balance of things. My source audio equipment is not extremely refined but I think this is a speaker issue, not in some other component.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.