Are the originals fried and you need to replace them or are you just trying to upgrade the amp?
When repairing my 250, I ordered the original 88/91 outputs, but the power supply uses IRF3205.
Another user on this forum, Clipped, uses BD909/910 as outputs with 3205's in the power supply of his rebuilt 2150SX (same board as 250). I think he has also used BD911/912 as outputs. He also uses 909/910 as replacements for the hard to find MPSU07/57 drivers, but you have to bend the leads to match the 07/57 pinout.
When repairing my 250, I ordered the original 88/91 outputs, but the power supply uses IRF3205.
Another user on this forum, Clipped, uses BD909/910 as outputs with 3205's in the power supply of his rebuilt 2150SX (same board as 250). I think he has also used BD911/912 as outputs. He also uses 909/910 as replacements for the hard to find MPSU07/57 drivers, but you have to bend the leads to match the 07/57 pinout.
I'm just doing an upgrade for the hell of it. I wanted to experiment with it.
As of right now the amp works but the outputs are not matched anymore, so I figured I'd upgrade it and match the outputs at the same time. I saw the posting on the bd911 and 912 i was just wondering what all my options where. Would I need to upgrade the power supply to support the better outputs?
As of right now the amp works but the outputs are not matched anymore, so I figured I'd upgrade it and match the outputs at the same time. I saw the posting on the bd911 and 912 i was just wondering what all my options where. Would I need to upgrade the power supply to support the better outputs?
The BD parts are 90 watt devices. The 911/912 devices are 100V and the 909/910 are rated to 80V. The original 2n6488/91 devices are rated at 80V, 75W.
The 909/910 are a better match to the original parts, but have a higher power rating, 90W vs 75W.
I usually shop at mouser.com, but they don't carry the 909/910 devices, only the 911/912 combo.
IRF 3205's in the power supply with BD devices on the output side should work just fine.
When repairing my HCCA amps, I also replaced all capacitors in the power supply. You can install the same size caps with higher capacity. Be sure to install 105 degree parts as these amps get really hot.
Clipped went as far as changing the input opamp in his amps with good results.
Once you make all those changes, if you have access to a scope, you should check for oscillation on the output. Installing newer, faster, parts can cause the amp to oscillate at high frequencies.
The 909/910 are a better match to the original parts, but have a higher power rating, 90W vs 75W.
I usually shop at mouser.com, but they don't carry the 909/910 devices, only the 911/912 combo.
IRF 3205's in the power supply with BD devices on the output side should work just fine.
When repairing my HCCA amps, I also replaced all capacitors in the power supply. You can install the same size caps with higher capacity. Be sure to install 105 degree parts as these amps get really hot.
Clipped went as far as changing the input opamp in his amps with good results.
Once you make all those changes, if you have access to a scope, you should check for oscillation on the output. Installing newer, faster, parts can cause the amp to oscillate at high frequencies.
Does it produce normal audio when...
Bridged, mono button in, signal fed only into left channel of the amp?
Bridged, mono button in, signal fed only into right channel of the amp?
Stereo, mono button in, signal fed only into left channel of the amp?
Stereo, mono button in, signal fed only into right channel of the amp?
Stereo, mono button out, signal fed only into left channel of the amp?
Stereo, mono button out, signal fed only into right channel of the amp?
Does it produce bass when run in stereo (signal driven into both channels) with the mono button in AND with it out?
Sorry for all of the questions but it appears that the signal is being cancelled out (or not being properly inverted) at some point in the circuit.
Bridged, mono button in, signal fed only into left channel of the amp?
Bridged, mono button in, signal fed only into right channel of the amp?
Stereo, mono button in, signal fed only into left channel of the amp?
Stereo, mono button in, signal fed only into right channel of the amp?
Stereo, mono button out, signal fed only into left channel of the amp?
Stereo, mono button out, signal fed only into right channel of the amp?
Does it produce bass when run in stereo (signal driven into both channels) with the mono button in AND with it out?
Sorry for all of the questions but it appears that the signal is being cancelled out (or not being properly inverted) at some point in the circuit.
if your using the amp for mid/hi work the original signetics opamps sound smoother, ...for sub use if you want a bit tighter sound TI opamps are the way to go.
sometimes when the muting circuit goes bad a super tech will try changing the opamps out hoping this will cure it (it doesnt), make sure they are 5532/5534 opamps...the two by each zener array and next to the capacitors are the 5534's.
you should also change the teardrop shaped tantulums (orange) to 25 volts...they are 2.2uf i think theres about 12-14 of them on the entire board...especially the three in the power supply...the one closest to the sideways cap can be a biatchhhh to remove...make sure you observe polarity.
theres two +/- 30amp diodes underneath the transformer also. you may want to check those out, on one of my amps the legs were melted in half, but they still worked.
the irf3205's work awesome, if you want to keep it as close to original and cant find the smp60n06...the ssp60n06 can be used (fairchild labeled made by samsung)
check your rca cable heads to make sure they arent shorting out.
sometimes when the muting circuit goes bad a super tech will try changing the opamps out hoping this will cure it (it doesnt), make sure they are 5532/5534 opamps...the two by each zener array and next to the capacitors are the 5534's.
you should also change the teardrop shaped tantulums (orange) to 25 volts...they are 2.2uf i think theres about 12-14 of them on the entire board...especially the three in the power supply...the one closest to the sideways cap can be a biatchhhh to remove...make sure you observe polarity.
theres two +/- 30amp diodes underneath the transformer also. you may want to check those out, on one of my amps the legs were melted in half, but they still worked.
the irf3205's work awesome, if you want to keep it as close to original and cant find the smp60n06...the ssp60n06 can be used (fairchild labeled made by samsung)
check your rca cable heads to make sure they arent shorting out.
i never had a chance to order them, but when i was looking for them 'Farnell' had them in stock out of singapore...since your in cyprus that may be ok.
theres a post somewhere on here, that suggest bending the legs of a different diode to be used as a substitute, cant remember the part number for the life of me though...it may even be possible to parrallel a few fen/p16 diodes.
if you by any chance happen to get a few extra, i got a couple of orion plugs with your name all over them.....
theres a post somewhere on here, that suggest bending the legs of a different diode to be used as a substitute, cant remember the part number for the life of me though...it may even be possible to parrallel a few fen/p16 diodes.
if you by any chance happen to get a few extra, i got a couple of orion plugs with your name all over them.....
Clipped, I may have to check ebay or some local electronics store for the common anode rectifier. I actually have extra 2n5639 jfets in my order and was planning on sending some your way. Then you can repair the muting circuits in your amps!
I'm ordering some orion style plugs and sockets, but I may have to take you up on your offer if I can't get the new ones to work.
I had a bottom plate made for the extra 2150sx heatsink, but I still don't have a circuit board for it. I might just stuff a 225 board in it for extra cooling.
I'm ordering some orion style plugs and sockets, but I may have to take you up on your offer if I can't get the new ones to work.
I had a bottom plate made for the extra 2150sx heatsink, but I still don't have a circuit board for it. I might just stuff a 225 board in it for extra cooling.
ECM,
Bridged, mono button in, signal fed only into left channel of the amp? Some bass gets through but not much
Bridged, mono button in, signal fed only into right channel of the amp? Some bass gets through but not much
Stereo, mono button in, signal fed only into left channel of the amp? Some bass gets through but not much
Stereo, mono button in, signal fed only into right channel of the amp? Some bass gets through but not much
Stereo, mono button out, signal fed only into left channel of the amp? Left Channel works to full capacity
Stereo, mono button out, signal fed only into right channel of the amp? Right channel works to full capacity
Does it produce bass when run in stereo (signal driven into both channels) with the mono button in AND with it out?No with it in and yes with it out
Clipped,
Rca cables are good
Diodes are good
I will look into the caps
I'm using this one for my sub amp, so mids and highs are not that important in this case.
Bridged, mono button in, signal fed only into left channel of the amp? Some bass gets through but not much
Bridged, mono button in, signal fed only into right channel of the amp? Some bass gets through but not much
Stereo, mono button in, signal fed only into left channel of the amp? Some bass gets through but not much
Stereo, mono button in, signal fed only into right channel of the amp? Some bass gets through but not much
Stereo, mono button out, signal fed only into left channel of the amp? Left Channel works to full capacity
Stereo, mono button out, signal fed only into right channel of the amp? Right channel works to full capacity
Does it produce bass when run in stereo (signal driven into both channels) with the mono button in AND with it out?No with it in and yes with it out
Clipped,
Rca cables are good
Diodes are good
I will look into the caps
I'm using this one for my sub amp, so mids and highs are not that important in this case.
on my 225 hcca when i press the mono button while the amp is hooked up in stereo, the right side (assuming wiring is correct) will lose about half its output.
those tantulums can cause problems, as many techs on this board know, they are known to fail....one caused scratchy output at low levels by taking out a 5534 opamp and in another case caused the output to palpitate (cant think of the right word) at high speed.
ECM, i dont see why the new plugs wouldnt work, i pulled all the plugs on my amps and soldered new 8 gauge wires straight to the board...i dont plan on ever selling these amps (knock on wood)...i dont mind a little turn on pop, but the judges might...
btw had a contest today, placed first with two 12" subs and 4 2150sx's....146.4 in car / 123.5 outside...linear-x 2.5 meters from front wheels...50ah batt dropped to 8volts!only good for two burps...gonna get seven 2 volt cells next...
gotta give a shout out to Perry for helping me fix these amps otherwise never wouldve been able to get them running.
those tantulums can cause problems, as many techs on this board know, they are known to fail....one caused scratchy output at low levels by taking out a 5534 opamp and in another case caused the output to palpitate (cant think of the right word) at high speed.
ECM, i dont see why the new plugs wouldnt work, i pulled all the plugs on my amps and soldered new 8 gauge wires straight to the board...i dont plan on ever selling these amps (knock on wood)...i dont mind a little turn on pop, but the judges might...
btw had a contest today, placed first with two 12" subs and 4 2150sx's....146.4 in car / 123.5 outside...linear-x 2.5 meters from front wheels...50ah batt dropped to 8volts!only good for two burps...gonna get seven 2 volt cells next...
gotta give a shout out to Perry for helping me fix these amps otherwise never wouldve been able to get them running.SS64:
What type of speaker(s) were you using for testing?
Clipped:
No shouting please.
The problem with your 225 is strange. The mono button only mixes the signals. If the signal on both channels is equal, it should not cause the output to drop in one channel when the mono button is engaged. The only time I've seen one channel drop in volume is when one channel had no signal.
What type of speaker(s) were you using for testing?
Clipped:
No shouting please.
The problem with your 225 is strange. The mono button only mixes the signals. If the signal on both channels is equal, it should not cause the output to drop in one channel when the mono button is engaged. The only time I've seen one channel drop in volume is when one channel had no signal.
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