Go to www.aurasound.com, and click "Dealers" in the column on the left side.
This will take you to a page of dealers which contain, among others:
www.audiojunkies.com
www.solen.ca Right in your neck of the woods.
www.unical-usa.com
In addition to Madisound, of course.
Good luck!
PS: Couldn't find a price list on Solen's website, so perhaps you have to Email them with the model number for the quote.
This will take you to a page of dealers which contain, among others:
www.audiojunkies.com
www.solen.ca Right in your neck of the woods.
www.unical-usa.com
In addition to Madisound, of course.
Good luck!
PS: Couldn't find a price list on Solen's website, so perhaps you have to Email them with the model number for the quote.
Did you contact Solen? With no price list I could find, they might have them in stock and be ready to sell you one. Don't be confused by their page which lists stuff they have "on sale"-that's only the stuff that is marked down in price.
If you contact Solen and they don't actually have them, I would think the best person to contact for a substitute would be Zaph himself. You might want to include the fact that this is a project for school.
Finally, I think Timin8tr did some project with NT tweeters-maybe he has some experience with a substitute.
If you contact Solen and they don't actually have them, I would think the best person to contact for a substitute would be Zaph himself. You might want to include the fact that this is a project for school.
Finally, I think Timin8tr did some project with NT tweeters-maybe he has some experience with a substitute.
cyberspyder said:
Hi,
The Dayton ND20FB-4 has exactly the same fitting. It could be used
as a temporary substitute by omitting / increasing R5 in the crossover.
(possibly using R5 as R4 if they are too bright). It is not ideal at all,
see http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker20b.html ,
you should fit the NT1 (+ R5) when they are available.
/sreten.
cyberspyder said:
Sorry Brendan, I have no good answers for you. See this post for reasons why I won't recommend the PE rear mount neo. It has packaging issues. In fact, I plan on pulling that wall-mount design that uses that tweeter until I can redo-it using another one. I don't need to hear from anyone who bought one that didn't have a dent in it, but I would like to hear a recent buyer tell me the packaging issues have been resolved.
That said, if you want to take your chances with the PE rear mount neo, you will need to make it behave as close to the Aura (with L-pad) as possible. That will mean new L-pad values to match the impedance that the filter sees and the level the system requires. If I can find the time, I'll look at it. If I can recommend anything, I'll do so and stop back here. No guarantees.
For anyone else looking at this design, I'd say don't build it until all parts become available.
Everyone should be aware that every project I've posted has caused a run on the drivers used and has become unavailable shortly after. This NT1 dome is used in 2 of my recent designs and as such it was inevitable that it would soon sell out.
cyberspyder said:
Nobody can contact me. I like it that way.
Thanks Zaph, but is the Dayton the same size? I just want a reference so I can construct the baffle correctly, and also the Xover. I don't mind waiting for a new tweeter, but I'd like to start on the enclosure ASAP (for a school summative). I can't cut MDF @ school, and I was thinking of using Baltic Birch. Problem is that I wanted to see the plies of the Baltic birch on the front roundover, so is it possible to have the baffle recessed, while preserving the same box volume?
Thanks, Brendan
Thanks, Brendan
Hi,
Yes the baffle can be recessed and arguably it will be stronger if glued
in rather than bolted, but it still can be bolted in if you choose that way.
Round over the edges and mount the baffle near flush with the edge.
The baffle can be slightly proud with a small bevel on its front edge.
From Zaphaudio.com http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/
I think omitting R5 is your simplest option if you do not want to mess
about too much finding the optimum balance, put it back for the NT1.
I've no idea about the reliability of the ND20 packing .......
/sreten.
Yes the baffle can be recessed and arguably it will be stronger if glued
in rather than bolted, but it still can be bolted in if you choose that way.
Round over the edges and mount the baffle near flush with the edge.
The baffle can be slightly proud with a small bevel on its front edge.
From Zaphaudio.com http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/
I think omitting R5 is your simplest option if you do not want to mess
about too much finding the optimum balance, put it back for the NT1.
I've no idea about the reliability of the ND20 packing .......
/sreten.
Ok, I've got an untested but simple crossover mod to use the Dayton ND20 with the ZBM4. Before I post, I'd like agreement of the following:
Don't blame me if it doesn't sound good.
Don't call it a Zaph design.
Do not distribute.
Report back here on the condition and packing materials of the ND20.
It will be available for a day then gone. Note that I won't be coming up with an alternate crossover for the ZDT3. That's a bit too expensive and risky for a modification that's essentially an unverified guess.
Don't blame me if it doesn't sound good.
Don't call it a Zaph design.
Do not distribute.
Report back here on the condition and packing materials of the ND20.
It will be available for a day then gone. Note that I won't be coming up with an alternate crossover for the ZDT3. That's a bit too expensive and risky for a modification that's essentially an unverified guess.
cyberspyder said:
I don't think anyone is going to return a $5 tweeter. The last few I ordered went in the garbage.
In box raw response differences - ND20 vs NT1
Response of ND20 and NT1 using default ZBM4 crossover
Response of the ND20 dropped into the ZBM4 with no crossover changes
Suggested crossover changes for the ND20 - Switch around the L-pad resistors and add an inductor before the filter to tame the top octave.
Hope this helps. This ends my participation in this thread, off to do other things.
Does this Xover layout look right (schematics posted by Zaph several post up)?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Updated:
Any opinions? Are the inductors too close to each other?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Any opinions? Are the inductors too close to each other?
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