I am planning to Build rod eliots projects 3A(60W-100w amplifier),88(preamplifier),09(linkwitz riley crossover). Will these projects work well together. I am going to use the amp for 60W amplification which i will have bi-amped.
Does any one who has built these projects have an tips or had any problems with them. This will be me first time building an amp,preamp,crossover they all look fairly straitforward I have access to a etching tank and some realy good software for making artwork.
How much is this whole lot likly to Cost.
Does any one who has built these projects have an tips or had any problems with them. This will be me first time building an amp,preamp,crossover they all look fairly straitforward I have access to a etching tank and some realy good software for making artwork.
How much is this whole lot likly to Cost.
IMO they will fit perfectly togheter. I've built the active crossover and it worked very well the first time. Use good quality cap in it or else it will not work as expected.
Since your starting you should start by the simplest one first.
For the cost this is hard to estimate. depend on what you have on hand and the deal you can get.
Since your starting you should start by the simplest one first.
For the cost this is hard to estimate. depend on what you have on hand and the deal you can get.
I think I got it wrong when I said Bi-amped
. I thought it meant were you have an amp for the left and right speakers rather than an amp for each speaker.
The more i think about it the more a think that doing this wouldn't be a bad idea
. Are there any real addvantages in your eyes of doing this?.
Is it possible to run the ampes off a single power source?
. I thought it meant were you have an amp for the left and right speakers rather than an amp for each speaker. The more i think about it the more a think that doing this wouldn't be a bad idea
. Are there any real addvantages in your eyes of doing this?.Is it possible to run the ampes off a single power source?
please dont purchase all the components from maplins, they are oftern over priced. - for example a 300va transfermer costs £32 but from rapid eletronics it costs £19 and is better quality, for a rapid eldtronics cataloge plese phone 01206 751166 unfortunatly it will cost £4 but you will get the money back if you order stuff over £30.
i used them for almost everything since i found out about them
as for using two amplifiers from a single power sorce, yes you CAN do this, but many people belive seperate powersupplies (one for each amplfier) sounds better, and is more convinanit it you plan to put the ampliflers in sepertate boxes.
you will need to double the current produced by the powersupply in oder to power both ampiflers.
i used them for almost everything since i found out about them
as for using two amplifiers from a single power sorce, yes you CAN do this, but many people belive seperate powersupplies (one for each amplfier) sounds better, and is more convinanit it you plan to put the ampliflers in sepertate boxes.
you will need to double the current produced by the powersupply in oder to power both ampiflers.
Fezz do you know if There are any rapid electronics outlets in east anglia. I am a Bit reluctant to buy from mail order catolags since i have had a lot of trouble with them in the past.
Does rapid electronics have an online catolog of every thing or is it just a small amount of what they actually sell.
Thanks for telling me that they over charge.
Does rapid electronics have an online catolog of every thing or is it just a small amount of what they actually sell.
Thanks for telling me that they over charge.
Yup teir is alot of advandage to bi-amping. Difference is sound qality is very noticable especially on less than ideal system.
I reccomand rod'S article on bi-amping.
www.sound.au.com
got to the article section.
I reccomand rod'S article on bi-amping.
www.sound.au.com
got to the article section.
Beginners guide to hi-fi DIY
Tom J, may I humbly suggest my site, Decibel Dungeon which should be of help to you in getting started on your project.
Tom J, may I humbly suggest my site, Decibel Dungeon which should be of help to you in getting started on your project.
im afraid they do not have any outlets that i am aware of... but do not worry about ordering from them - they are very good, all of my oders have been recived the next day and delivery is free if you spend over £30.
Nuuk - i am afraid they only sell some high quality resistors (Meggitt Holsworthy) no good capacitors but www.audiocom-uk.com sell some and the prices are ok - im afraid i have not bought from them yet though
Nuuk - i am afraid they only sell some high quality resistors (Meggitt Holsworthy) no good capacitors but www.audiocom-uk.com sell some and the prices are ok - im afraid i have not bought from them yet though
Audiocom
Thanks Fezz but there are some big questions about dealing with Audiocom.
I'm still awaiting delivery of some caps that I ordered last Thursday and was supposed to be despatched the same day.
They don't reply to phone or email messages and I have since heard from somebody who ordered stuff, paid for it by credit card but never recieved it. That's why I was hoping to find an alternative supplier.
Post has just arrived and still no capacitors!
Thanks Fezz but there are some big questions about dealing with Audiocom.
I'm still awaiting delivery of some caps that I ordered last Thursday and was supposed to be despatched the same day.
They don't reply to phone or email messages and I have since heard from somebody who ordered stuff, paid for it by credit card but never recieved it. That's why I was hoping to find an alternative supplier.
Post has just arrived and still no capacitors!
I was wondering just how many of us there are in the UK buying these sort of components. Maybe, we could all get together and persuade RS or Farnell to keep a range of Black Gates, Silmics etc. Farnell do OSCON SG's so I can't see why they wouldn't do some more 'exotics' if enough of us asked them to.
Ideally though, a smaller supplier with no minimum order charge would be better. Cricklewood Electronics is one that comes to mind.
It shouldn't be too difficult to canvas enough people through the various hi-fi forums, newslists etc.
Ideally though, a smaller supplier with no minimum order charge would be better. Cricklewood Electronics is one that comes to mind.
It shouldn't be too difficult to canvas enough people through the various hi-fi forums, newslists etc.
TomJ said:The more i think about it the more a think that doing this wouldn't be a bad idea
The ESP projects are well documented. If this is your first time, I do recommend ESP project other than others. And using bipolars! You seemed to have selected the best ESP projects
But I recommend you to build the amp (may be with the pre-amp) first, and forget about the crossover.If cost is your big concern, I think I must tell you that DIY world is filled with maniacs who do not care with money they spend. Hobby is hobby. If you’re looking for a cheap way of making a good sound system, DIY is usually a wrong way. Only experienced DIYers are capable of getting the most out of the least. But bipolar is the right option.
If you are going to build the PCB by yourself (looks as if you’re going to be one of the maniacs), I don’t know what to say. Just expect you will get serious hum.
What Causes the hum you speak off, I thought that a circuit was circuit and that the interference between the magnectic feilds was very small, this being the only thing that I know of the could cause this type of thing.
or am I underestimateing how much Disstortion this will causeIs there any way to work out how much a design is going to hum.
The software I am using uses skematics that you design on "Crocodile clips" it then creates a design whitch is etched by a computer controled etching machine not an echent tank as I first said, this is because the place were I am doing the ecting has just had everything upgraded.
Cost isn't the main thing its more i want to know how much it would cost so i can comparte it with other settups i have seen
Hello,
I built exactly what you described. I put a P88 preamp in a 1U rack case along with a P05 power supply, a P06 phono preamp and a P81 active crossover. I built a P3A and put it in a separate 3U rack. I bought all my boards from Rod.
I am a rank amateur compared to many who frequent this board, and this was my first attempt at amplifier building. But, I think you are correct about it being a great sound system! I haven't heard many high-end systems, so I may not be one to judge, but I am constantly amazed at how good it sounds.
I'm in the US, so I got my passives and misc components from DigiKey and Mouser. I got the best quality I could find at those places (1% metal foil resistors, best quality Panasonic caps, etc). The smaller transistors I got from Newark, the output transistors I got as samples from OnSemi (MJL3281A/1302A). The heatsink came from e-bay, Transformer is a Plitron 400VA 30-0-30, cases came from Par-Metal (great value). Miscellaneous parts (Alps volume control, 5-way speaker posts, gold-plated RCA's, press-on lettering, etc., etc.) were obtained from various web sites.
I also built Rod's DC protection unit (P33), the fan contoller, and the clipping indicator. I built a DC trap for the mains that was discussed in a thread here a while ago.
All-in total cost for the whole enchilada, preamp and amp, was about US$1100. I sent many emails to Rod, and asked a lot of questions, read many posts on this board. Many of my miseries were self-inflicted, and I learned a lot about what NOT to do.
I originally put the active crossover in the preamp to split the signal at 60 Hz between the P3A and my sub. The idea was to take the <60hz signal off the P3A. However, I find I like the sound much beter if I send the whole signal to the P3A, so I am not actually using the crossover at this point.
If you want to see pictures:
http://members.tripod.com/omordicai/hifi.html
Hope this gives you some help.
I built exactly what you described. I put a P88 preamp in a 1U rack case along with a P05 power supply, a P06 phono preamp and a P81 active crossover. I built a P3A and put it in a separate 3U rack. I bought all my boards from Rod.
I am a rank amateur compared to many who frequent this board, and this was my first attempt at amplifier building. But, I think you are correct about it being a great sound system! I haven't heard many high-end systems, so I may not be one to judge, but I am constantly amazed at how good it sounds.
I'm in the US, so I got my passives and misc components from DigiKey and Mouser. I got the best quality I could find at those places (1% metal foil resistors, best quality Panasonic caps, etc). The smaller transistors I got from Newark, the output transistors I got as samples from OnSemi (MJL3281A/1302A). The heatsink came from e-bay, Transformer is a Plitron 400VA 30-0-30, cases came from Par-Metal (great value). Miscellaneous parts (Alps volume control, 5-way speaker posts, gold-plated RCA's, press-on lettering, etc., etc.) were obtained from various web sites.
I also built Rod's DC protection unit (P33), the fan contoller, and the clipping indicator. I built a DC trap for the mains that was discussed in a thread here a while ago.
All-in total cost for the whole enchilada, preamp and amp, was about US$1100. I sent many emails to Rod, and asked a lot of questions, read many posts on this board. Many of my miseries were self-inflicted, and I learned a lot about what NOT to do.
I originally put the active crossover in the preamp to split the signal at 60 Hz between the P3A and my sub. The idea was to take the <60hz signal off the P3A. However, I find I like the sound much beter if I send the whole signal to the P3A, so I am not actually using the crossover at this point.
If you want to see pictures:
http://members.tripod.com/omordicai/hifi.html
Hope this gives you some help.
Hi!
For high end parts you can also buy at partsconnexion. (www.partsconnexion.com).
They also deliver abroad (from Canada), with no heavy postage fees, and carry some of the most exclusive DIY parts that are available (BackGate, Jensen, Rikken etc.).
And tax (if it should apply) to EU for electronical parts is somewhat around 1.7%. So if you can't find a local source (for high quality components), try them.
Bye,
Arndt
For high end parts you can also buy at partsconnexion. (www.partsconnexion.com).
They also deliver abroad (from Canada), with no heavy postage fees, and carry some of the most exclusive DIY parts that are available (BackGate, Jensen, Rikken etc.).
And tax (if it should apply) to EU for electronical parts is somewhat around 1.7%. So if you can't find a local source (for high quality components), try them.
Bye,
Arndt
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