Enclosure - 10" Peerless XXLS
Hey guys,
Im a noobie here but there seems to be a wealth of information floating around the forum.
Im set on making a sub with a 10" Peerless (830843) driver in a sealed enclosure.
The application notes suggest a 62L (2.1 cu ft) box with 65% fill. This will produce a 44.8Hz 3dB cut off. I have chosen a trusty Qtc of 0.707 which requires a volume of 54.8L (1.9 cu ft) and has a 3dB cut off of 40.17 Hz.
Can you guys see any added benefit in having the larger enclosure? (slightly better gain below 30Hz?)
I'd be interested to know if any of you have an idea of how thick the enclosure walls can be before foregoing internal bracing? Currently im considering building a heavy enclosure with >40mm (1.57") thick walls. Is that still to thin to negate bracing?
Cheers all
Hey guys,
Im a noobie here but there seems to be a wealth of information floating around the forum.
Im set on making a sub with a 10" Peerless (830843) driver in a sealed enclosure.
The application notes suggest a 62L (2.1 cu ft) box with 65% fill. This will produce a 44.8Hz 3dB cut off. I have chosen a trusty Qtc of 0.707 which requires a volume of 54.8L (1.9 cu ft) and has a 3dB cut off of 40.17 Hz.
Can you guys see any added benefit in having the larger enclosure? (slightly better gain below 30Hz?)
I'd be interested to know if any of you have an idea of how thick the enclosure walls can be before foregoing internal bracing? Currently im considering building a heavy enclosure with >40mm (1.57") thick walls. Is that still to thin to negate bracing?
Cheers all
"Can you guys see any added benefit in having the larger enclosure?"
One thing one has to include into the calculation is, that the air in the enclosure acts in a nonlinear way when being compressed. This leads to additional distortion at bigger driver excursions. This distortion will get smaller as the box gets bigger.
Siegfried Linkwitz has build a sub very similar to yours, named it Thor. You can learn alot about what to consider in the design of you sub by reading the info in the link below.
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/thor-intro.htm
One thing one has to include into the calculation is, that the air in the enclosure acts in a nonlinear way when being compressed. This leads to additional distortion at bigger driver excursions. This distortion will get smaller as the box gets bigger.
Siegfried Linkwitz has build a sub very similar to yours, named it Thor. You can learn alot about what to consider in the design of you sub by reading the info in the link below.
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/thor-intro.htm
MaVo,
Thank you for your speedy reply.
The design on the Linkwitz page suits my requirements almost perfectly. I intend to use the sub mostly for music. I'll look further into the design.
Do you have any recommendations on choice of material? MDF seems to be the most popular by far but ive seen some people suggest Plywood.
For simplicity of construction and design i would prefer to use thicker walls rather than bracing but only if you guys think the two are interchangeable!! So perhaps choice of materials will have some impact on this??
Ive noticed the Thor on the Linkwitz page has only been braced at the corners, not the middle of the panels.
Thanks again
Thank you for your speedy reply.
The design on the Linkwitz page suits my requirements almost perfectly. I intend to use the sub mostly for music. I'll look further into the design.
Do you have any recommendations on choice of material? MDF seems to be the most popular by far but ive seen some people suggest Plywood.
For simplicity of construction and design i would prefer to use thicker walls rather than bracing but only if you guys think the two are interchangeable!! So perhaps choice of materials will have some impact on this??
Ive noticed the Thor on the Linkwitz page has only been braced at the corners, not the middle of the panels.
Thanks again
I have never seen a good comparison on what wood is better. in this area of design too many pseudo scientists argue based on what they feel. I use plywood since i like the stability it gives the enclosure. I suppose a sturdy enclosure is the most important thing here, most kinds of wood will be able to achieve that.
A small enclusure and 40mm walls like you mentioned, that would be ok for me. i build a tapped horn with 15mm plywood and it only vibrates a little on really loud music.
A small enclusure and 40mm walls like you mentioned, that would be ok for me. i build a tapped horn with 15mm plywood and it only vibrates a little on really loud music.
MaVo,
There is an argument on wood choice in this thread (post 18 onwards)
Its hardly scientific but it seems but it seems to agree with you and choose ply based on strength and rigidity.
I might be able to make a thinner enclosure with ply. Rather than using veneer, i was considering using some nice old hardwood floorboards i have lying around (dunno what else to do with them - at least the speaker would match the house!). Anyway thats where the extra thickness might come in as they are ~20mm thick
There is an argument on wood choice in this thread (post 18 onwards)
Its hardly scientific but it seems but it seems to agree with you and choose ply based on strength and rigidity.
I might be able to make a thinner enclosure with ply. Rather than using veneer, i was considering using some nice old hardwood floorboards i have lying around (dunno what else to do with them - at least the speaker would match the house!). Anyway thats where the extra thickness might come in as they are ~20mm thick
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