your cabinet design looks very nice, your speaker design looks very ambitious as well.
the scanspeak has a new top tweeter (I forget the model name) is very good, the peerless tweeter is very good too, model:***921(don't know the exact model no.). the latter is much cheaper, about US$75-90 each
midbass/range is crucial, depending on your musical taste, if you like vocal, paper bass cone is very good. I tend to opt for mid range with high efficiency, eg. 90dB min., with your design you will lose 1-3dB due to BSC. the actual eff. you will get is around 87-89dB, to me is too low still. Maybe you have a high powered amp. to drive it to give it the musical scale you need.
you are starting from scratch, it is risky, eg get x-over right, etc.
all the best.....
go to this site:
http://www.stereotimes.com/look for:
The Penaudio Serenade Loudspeaker
under archives, to get inspirations.
the scanspeak has a new top tweeter (I forget the model name) is very good, the peerless tweeter is very good too, model:***921(don't know the exact model no.). the latter is much cheaper, about US$75-90 each
midbass/range is crucial, depending on your musical taste, if you like vocal, paper bass cone is very good. I tend to opt for mid range with high efficiency, eg. 90dB min., with your design you will lose 1-3dB due to BSC. the actual eff. you will get is around 87-89dB, to me is too low still. Maybe you have a high powered amp. to drive it to give it the musical scale you need.
you are starting from scratch, it is risky, eg get x-over right, etc.
all the best.....
go to this site:
http://www.stereotimes.com/look for:
The Penaudio Serenade Loudspeaker
under archives, to get inspirations.
May I suggest putting one bass driver on the opposite side, and running a short bar, or block of MDF on the inside to mechanically connect them. This would effectively cancel out the vibrations from the woofs. (It might cause you to have to widen the front baffle though, and you might not want to do that either.)
I would also put them as close to the floor as possible, which would help them get a slightly flatter response in the room, and get a tad more bass. It looks real good though. Good luck!
I would also put them as close to the floor as possible, which would help them get a slightly flatter response in the room, and get a tad more bass. It looks real good though. Good luck!
Oh...I would put the port on the bottom also. Or you could do what B&W did, raise the whole thing, and down fire the port in to the floor with about 3" clearance. (802's) Sometimes there can be some lower midrange muck coming out of the port, and because of that, I would have it close to the floor, to reinforce the bass more, and away from the upper range speakers. Also use as wide, (which means longer) vent that you can get away with, and flare the ends inside and out to reduce chuffing sounds.
Yeah I'd love to see the file.
Yeah I'd love to see the file.
Great looking project, looking forward to "in-progress" pictures.
I assume your wood working skills are not an issue here...I have two comments.
1. Can you tilt the front baffle of the midrange/tweeter to time-align the two? Either a tilted baffle of maybe taller "feet" in the front then in the back?
2. From an cosmetic standpoint, I would have the "side panel" on the bass enclosure align with something. Maybe the top corner of the midrange cabinet? This would required an extra piece of material on the side of the midrange cabinet. I have had a similar cabinet design floating around in my head.
I assume your wood working skills are not an issue here...I have two comments.
1. Can you tilt the front baffle of the midrange/tweeter to time-align the two? Either a tilted baffle of maybe taller "feet" in the front then in the back?
2. From an cosmetic standpoint, I would have the "side panel" on the bass enclosure align with something. Maybe the top corner of the midrange cabinet? This would required an extra piece of material on the side of the midrange cabinet. I have had a similar cabinet design floating around in my head.
Stingray, I've added a piece that follows the lines of the bass cabinet into the midrange, I hadn't at the time of the second set of pictures. I'm interested in the discussion of different driver choices at this juncture, I'm certainly open to new ideas as far as what drivers to use. Thats the beauty of drawing all this in CAD ahead of time...saves me a lot of money in MDF! I also have an adjustable rear foot on the back of the midrange module to tilt it up and down.
Have you considered the 8" Usher 8955A? If it has similar distortion to it's 7" brother, it may be a good choice. Also, it is on sale over at Partsexpress.com.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=296-618
You can see the 7" distortion over at Zaph|Audio.
http://www.zaphaudio.com/6.5test/
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=296-618
You can see the 7" distortion over at Zaph|Audio.
http://www.zaphaudio.com/6.5test/
tinitus, I think I will use a single 12" sub on the bottom instead of the two 10" woofers, and use two of the h1350s for midbass on the front of the baffle
TC, I've thought about it, I've designed the top to be adjustable as far as time alignment...You can angle the enclosure about 15 degrees either way. I've also looked at making the tweeter mounted further back than the midrange. I need to pick a mid to use before I draw in that section.
Planet, I can machine a piece of aluminum without problem
TC, I've thought about it, I've designed the top to be adjustable as far as time alignment...You can angle the enclosure about 15 degrees either way. I've also looked at making the tweeter mounted further back than the midrange. I need to pick a mid to use before I draw in that section.
Planet, I can machine a piece of aluminum without problem
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