Can I convert LPs to CDs?

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It's easy but i recommend an LP to CD software package.
A former Philips employee was the first 10 to 15 years ago to develop a package for transferring LP's to disc, nowadays there are a number of which Magix Cleaning Labs is likely the best known.

You need a fairly new main processor and a sound card with an audio input, a light-blue colored socket.
Between the recordplayer and soundcard either an integrated amplifier with recording out, a separate phono-pre, or a mixing panel.

Cool Edit is a nice program if you can find an older version, the latest one is part of an expensive Adobe deal.
The Ahead Nero packages also have utilities for recording, but are likely priced similar to Magix CL.
You can record with Windows only but it's a PITA.
 
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Audacity is a free tool with lots of features.
Not as fancy as Audition but it should work.

I do a lot of conversion and found out that recording the LP as one track, restoring it and then cutting the tracks to burn them on CD works best.
It takes a lot of practice to do a real good job but it's well worth it.

/Hugo
 
Hi Hugo,

I swear, this place is giving me ADD. Every day I see another thread that catches my interest and then I want to do that too, along with my already large and growing list! Too many directions at once.

Ah so what, what's one more? Anyway, when you listen to the CD you made vs the vinyl, how do they compare?

This is interesting because CDs from Led Zeppelin for example (I don't know if better remastered ones have been released since I bought mine) most songs sound terrible. The song "What is and what should never be" didn't make the conversion too well when they released the CD and neither did "Ten Years Gone". The vinyl sounds much better (maybe vinyl is more forgiving or the engineering was just for the vinyl media). This could be an answer to bring back the level of enjoyment I experienced as a teen when vinyl ruled! Very good memories!

Thanks as always!

Regards//Keith
 
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Keith,
A good converted LP to CD gives you a faithful copy.
I for one can hear no difference between both.

Led Zeppelin's II is a fine example of a heavily distorted record and I think we can safely blame the master tapes.
Bass and drums on the loud passages are completely clipped in many songs, especially side 1 of the record. I never heard the remastered CD.
Physical Graffiti is a lot better and I managed to extract 'Ten Years Gone' pretty well although Plant’s voice is rather grainy.

/Hugo
 
In my opinion, one of the simplest method giving good results is to play your LPs with your current turntable and preamp (assuming you have those, and the preamp has an output to external power amps). You can then connect your preamp outputs to either the analogue inputs of a highend computer sound card, or to those of one of the increasing number of CD players (e.g. Yamaha) with built-in hard disks and ADCs. All you then need to do is to set up the right signal level with the preamp volume control and get the data stored digitally. A computer-soundcard combination will probably give you better editing facilties afterwards.

Of course there are many additional conversion software which will allow you to remove noise and whatnot from LPs, but that is extra work that you should consider whether worthwhile or not.


Patrick
 
Note

Recording Time let’s say averagely 40 minutes for each LP
Editing, setting start and end points, cut about 5 Minutes (Automatic made by Software is not allways correct)
Setting Names on to the Datatracks, saving the Tracks on HD 2 Minutes
Totally about 50 Minutes per LP.

So the LP is digitally on HD at every desired Format now but :

You aren’t sure by doing this 1 to 1 recording in setting the recording level correctly without making the recording twice for reference. So it may be possible that the headroom will be to big or the recording gets distorted in a few Tracks.
If you think on conditioning the Tracks at the end of a recording, taking everything into account ; thats the wrong way to get a 1 to 1 recording wich is as near as possible to the recording.

Due to the fact that it takes that much time to digitize LP’s (let’s say count 10 $ per hour for your work, you would be able in buying more LP’s for that money and you will have time to listen them. And i think that’s what we want. Listening to music !
 
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Once you have set the reference input level of the soundcard, you can safely keep it in that position.
A few good LP’s with high dynamic range are enough to calibrate.
I usually stay away about 3dB from 0dBFS.
Later, you can always amplify the track (full LP) to say –0.5dBFS or even more close to 0dBFS with the software. I would not recommend normalize as you will loose the beauty of dynamics.

/Hugo
 
> i'll just store 24/96 on my computer and play it from there.

I am of the same opinion that digital storage (not CD) will be the format of choice eventually. Every CD mechanism has some reading errors and requires correction to a more or less extent. That is why people use "Exact Audio Copies" to extract CDs onto harddisks.

But I am not convinced of using a computer as Hi-End music server (switching PSU, clock jitter, ....). My dream is still a PC as master storage, a solid state memory (e.g. USB stick) holding the music content (temporary), and a dedicated audiophile player reading that off and playing it through proper DACs / Analogue stages. No mechanisms involved (vibrations and whatever else of black magic), pure electrons.

Either someone beats me to that and markets such a player, or I'll just have to design my own when I (ever) get round to finishing all analogue stuff first.


Patrick
 
I prefer Audacity (sp?) for recording. After that, Wave Repair is a good program for repairing pops and clicks, plus setting up the text data. Finally, I burn 'em using Nero Express. A good external sound card will usually have better performance than on-board, but some on-boards are pretty good now. Warning- doing this well is very time consuming. I mostly do it for old out-of-print disks. Sometimes I even buy several used copies just to get all the tracks in good enough condition. If your time is worth a nickel an hour, buy the new CD!
 
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EUVL said:
so it is not really meaningful to go 24 bit in my opinion. Going higher on sampling freq probably brings more benefit.

Anything beyond 20-22 bits is probably not useful. 24 is used because it is a multiple of 8... 24 bits or more are useful to keep round-off error to a minimum when you are processing the data.

Increased sample rate is beneficial... we probably won't see diminishing returns until somewhere beyond 300-some kHz...

dave
 
hi

When I have converted lp to cd I have tried a few of the electronic programes. I currently use cool edit pro. Cool edit is also ok. The newer versions are more complex so I recommend an older version.

The other easy way I use is via a Marantz DR6000 or DR7000 cd recorder. ( I own both but you can buy them for around US$ 100/200 second hand ) These will accept an analogue/record input and put it onto a cd for you. Easy.

Don
 
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