Battery-Powering a Trent TA-10 & a Citypulse DA2.03e
Hi guys, it's my first post on DIYAUDIO forums, so I'd like to begin by expressing many thanks to all the persons taking part in those forums, and especialy in this particular topic: "Battery-powered supplies", from which I learned a lot about my present concern.
Apropos, as I am a complete newbie in audio DIY world and electonics, I would greatly appreciate a last confirmaton of my assumptions:
So, I'm currently planning to Battery-Power my (yet to come) Trend audio TA-10.1 and Citypulse DA2.03e.
1) So, if I got it, I "JUST" have to plug a Lead battery with the same voltage instead of the stock PSU (12v-3A, for the trend)? or is there any modification needed ? (adding or removing parts in the power circuitry)
Do you have any other recommandation about the capacity (>=7Ah imho) , brand (Panasonic ftw? ), etc... in order for me to make the best battery choice?
(French online stores are providing several different brands like Panasonic, PowerSonic, Yuasa, EUROPA, CONRAD Energy, Sheng Yang...)
2) Additionnaly, if I understood well, connecting the battery charger while the Amp is on would not be a great problem for the amp's safety, but it could lower the sound quality, so I should consider buying 2 batteries, using one while charging the other.
(and connecting both to the charger during long off periods?)
3) Finally, in fact, my main actual problem is that I can't find anywhere the different input voltage values of the Citypulse DA2.03e...
So if anyone can help me on that point... that would be greatly appreciated
by the way, is it possible to battery-power this device?
is it still as "trivial" as connecting the batteries to the corresponding pins ?
Hi guys, it's my first post on DIYAUDIO forums, so I'd like to begin by expressing many thanks to all the persons taking part in those forums, and especialy in this particular topic: "Battery-powered supplies", from which I learned a lot about my present concern.
Apropos, as I am a complete newbie in audio DIY world and electonics, I would greatly appreciate a last confirmaton of my assumptions:
So, I'm currently planning to Battery-Power my (yet to come) Trend audio TA-10.1 and Citypulse DA2.03e.
1) So, if I got it, I "JUST" have to plug a Lead battery with the same voltage instead of the stock PSU (12v-3A, for the trend)? or is there any modification needed ? (adding or removing parts in the power circuitry)
Do you have any other recommandation about the capacity (>=7Ah imho) , brand (Panasonic ftw? ), etc... in order for me to make the best battery choice?
(French online stores are providing several different brands like Panasonic, PowerSonic, Yuasa, EUROPA, CONRAD Energy, Sheng Yang...)
2) Additionnaly, if I understood well, connecting the battery charger while the Amp is on would not be a great problem for the amp's safety, but it could lower the sound quality, so I should consider buying 2 batteries, using one while charging the other.
(and connecting both to the charger during long off periods?)
3) Finally, in fact, my main actual problem is that I can't find anywhere the different input voltage values of the Citypulse DA2.03e...
So if anyone can help me on that point... that would be greatly appreciated
by the way, is it possible to battery-power this device?
is it still as "trivial" as connecting the batteries to the corresponding pins ?
This one can:
http://www.diykits.com.hk/Pro-dac.html
This might help the battery to maintain the power:
http://www.rondevries.nl/catalog/pr...=3940&osCsid=1b5474aeea671a0f4554eb3d41b4982d
To get your Citypulse on batteries you should measure the dc voltage from the rectifiers...(or the ac voltage from the transformer multiplied by 1.41)...
http://www.diykits.com.hk/Pro-dac.html
This might help the battery to maintain the power:
http://www.rondevries.nl/catalog/pr...=3940&osCsid=1b5474aeea671a0f4554eb3d41b4982d
To get your Citypulse on batteries you should measure the dc voltage from the rectifiers...(or the ac voltage from the transformer multiplied by 1.41)...
thanks for your answer v-bro.
Concernig the pro-dac, it seems to be a very nice device, but, in fact, I chose the Citypulse because I could use it as a preamp too.
(initially, i was thinking about purchasing the Trend UD-10, but in my "less is better" philosophy, I prefered avoiding any DAC-Preamp interconnect.)
Concerning your second link, unfortunately, my Dutch AND my electronics skills are both as bad... but I still get that I should be thinking about using power caps... i'm gonna make some searchings, but since the TA-10 seems to work fine between 10.5 to 14.0V... I hope I won't need it
for the voltage measurement, the little technical problem is... hum... I don't have the DAC yet....
(If you don't agree with any of those ideas, please let me know! Remember, I'm just a knowledge-ungry HI-FI noob )
Concernig the pro-dac, it seems to be a very nice device, but, in fact, I chose the Citypulse because I could use it as a preamp too.
(initially, i was thinking about purchasing the Trend UD-10, but in my "less is better" philosophy, I prefered avoiding any DAC-Preamp interconnect.)
Concerning your second link, unfortunately, my Dutch AND my electronics skills are both as bad... but I still get that I should be thinking about using power caps... i'm gonna make some searchings, but since the TA-10 seems to work fine between 10.5 to 14.0V... I hope I won't need it
for the voltage measurement, the little technical problem is... hum... I don't have the DAC yet....
(If you don't agree with any of those ideas, please let me know! Remember, I'm just a knowledge-ungry HI-FI noob )
Salut Leto! Bienvenu au Forum.
You can use a SLA (batterie a plomb) to power your Trends, though it may not be better than a normal power supply. Batteries are not perfect.
As I posted over in the Class-D forum:
DO NOT turn the amp on with the battery charger connected. Many of these chargers can output 15V while charging - some even use pulsed AC to rejuvinate the cells. Your Tripath chip would not like that.
The best thing to do is rig up a toggle switch for CHARGE/OFF/ON. Or just diconnnect the battery from of the amp when charging.
You can plug in the battery just like the normal power supply. Tip is positive. Double check your power supply plug and you new battery plug twice before you plug it in. Stop if you are not sure. The chip will not survive a reverse polarity.
A battery might work well for the CityPulse, but I don't know waht voltages it uses.
You can use a SLA (batterie a plomb) to power your Trends, though it may not be better than a normal power supply. Batteries are not perfect.
As I posted over in the Class-D forum:
DO NOT turn the amp on with the battery charger connected. Many of these chargers can output 15V while charging - some even use pulsed AC to rejuvinate the cells. Your Tripath chip would not like that.
The best thing to do is rig up a toggle switch for CHARGE/OFF/ON. Or just diconnnect the battery from of the amp when charging.
You can plug in the battery just like the normal power supply. Tip is positive. Double check your power supply plug and you new battery plug twice before you plug it in. Stop if you are not sure. The chip will not survive a reverse polarity.
A battery might work well for the CityPulse, but I don't know waht voltages it uses.
merci beaucoup pour ta réponse !
well, first, battery-powering my hifi devices is not a hobby in itself (for me), and I hope it will effectively improve its sound, as it's said in this 6 moons review
and.. for the charger.. thank you very much for bringing that point to my attention... I could have done a very stupid mistake if you didn't warn me
and.. concernig polarities... I'm was aware of that detail's importance... as the above said 6 moons reviewer mentioned how he managed to burn it's own TA-10
well, first, battery-powering my hifi devices is not a hobby in itself (for me), and I hope it will effectively improve its sound, as it's said in this 6 moons review
and.. for the charger.. thank you very much for bringing that point to my attention... I could have done a very stupid mistake if you didn't warn me
and.. concernig polarities... I'm was aware of that detail's importance... as the above said 6 moons reviewer mentioned how he managed to burn it's own TA-10
Welcome Leto, the link indeed driects you to a power cap. I don't really think you'll need it, but battery power should in the opinions of many 'audiophiles' be better because it would not show ripple (power fluctuations). But as an amplifier draws power in a fluctuating way just as well the supply should also be fast in recovery...
IMO a switch mode power supply does that job quite well and I can blindfolded pick out the amp with 6A nicad battery or 8A SMPS supply. I prefer the SMPS...
I did some experimenting with a power cap (1Farad which is 1000.000 uF) and it did seem to make the smaller batteries recover faster and make the sound somewhat more precise...though I could not hear the difference that well to pick the one or the other out in a blind test... I think the power cap will make more difference with a higher power amp (like the ones with 12V to higher V SMPS on board that can deliver lots of power in a car....)
So adding this is up to you, they can be found for 39 EUR. which is not very expensive IMO...
IMO a switch mode power supply does that job quite well and I can blindfolded pick out the amp with 6A nicad battery or 8A SMPS supply. I prefer the SMPS...
I did some experimenting with a power cap (1Farad which is 1000.000 uF) and it did seem to make the smaller batteries recover faster and make the sound somewhat more precise...though I could not hear the difference that well to pick the one or the other out in a blind test... I think the power cap will make more difference with a higher power amp (like the ones with 12V to higher V SMPS on board that can deliver lots of power in a car....)
So adding this is up to you, they can be found for 39 EUR. which is not very expensive IMO...
On the giant power cap, consensus on these forums is that anything over about 10,000 uf is overkill and will not improve sound. Furthermore, the quality of the capacitor (low ESR) and its nearness to the chips are at least as important as size. If you want to pursue this direction, take a look at the Trends modification thread elsewhere.
--Buckapound
--Buckapound
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