Hi:
You can use an LM338 voltage regulator to reduce the voltage from the rectifier capacitors of the output amplifier to 12V DC. You may need to add a heatsink to the regulator. The schematic is here:
http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM338.html
Regards,
Milan
You can use an LM338 voltage regulator to reduce the voltage from the rectifier capacitors of the output amplifier to 12V DC. You may need to add a heatsink to the regulator. The schematic is here:
http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM338.html
Regards,
Milan
moamps said:Hi:
You can use an LM338 voltage regulator to reduce the voltage from the rectifier capacitors of the output amplifier to 12V DC. You may need to add a heatsink to the regulator. The schematic is here:
http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM338.html
Regards,
Milan
Thanks for the reply but I need to get 12V AC from 22V AC.
moamps said:Motorized pot circuits must be powered with DC. Things will be much clearer when you post a picture or the schematic.
Regards,
Milan
This one has PS on board, I just need 12V AC to run it
This what I ordered:
http://eshop.diyclub.biz/product_info.php?cPath=85&products_id=247
they say it needs 12V 1A trafo
The picture in the link you have provided shows an onboard power supply, made of the rectifier, capacitor (the big blue thing) and regulator (mounted on a heatsink). As I said earlier, you should use an LM338 to build a voltage drop regulator. The +output of the LM338 regulator must be connected to the +pin (plus) of the big blue capacitor whereas the -output of the LM338 (ground) must be connected to the -pin (minus) of the blue capacitor. This is the simplest way to do it. Otherwise, you would have to use a non-standard transformer to reduce 22V to 12V AC, which complicates things considerably.
Regards,
Milan
Regards,
Milan
I would use an LM7812 (or LM340T12) as it is simpler to use and much cheaper than the LM338. The motorized pot does not draw very much current.
http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM140.html
http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM140.html
moamps said:The picture in the link you have provided shows an onboard power supply, made of the rectifier, capacitor (the big blue thing) and regulator (mounted on a heatsink). As I said earlier, you should use an LM338 to build a voltage drop regulator. The +output of the LM338 regulator must be connected to the +pin (plus) of the big blue capacitor whereas the -output of the LM338 (ground) must be connected to the -pin (minus) of the blue capacitor. This is the simplest way to do it. Otherwise, you would have to use a non-standard transformer to reduce 22V to 12V AC, which complicates things considerably.
Regards,
Milan
Ok I think I got it. Please check if i got the resistor values right.
As I see you are from Croatia, LM338 is expensive could you suggest a replacement from Chipoteka
Is LM350T ok ?
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moamps said:
EDIT: Yes, LM350T is also fine.
Milan thanks for your help.
Hvala na pomoæi, èovjek traži pomoæ u svijetu a naðe je u susjedstvu.
paulb said:I took another look at the board you bought. It has a regulator on board already, and it looks like it is heat sinked. You may be able to apply your transformer voltage 22VAC directly to this board. Can you email them and ask?
I'll ask the guys at diyclub. But their english is very hm... funny i hope they will understand.
moamps said:Can you please tell me what's written on the blue capacitor re capacity and rated voltage? What's the spec written on the regulator?
As the kit hasn’t arrived yet, all the info I have are those pics. I asked what is the regulator onboard, but they answered only, it's ok to use 22V check the heatsink. I will upgrade the cap to 50V kind, and check the regulator can handle the 22*1,41=31V voltage. Do I need to check anything else ?
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