I have these devices to supply:
Magma Chassis: 12V
Laptop: 16V
Wireless headphones emisor: 12V
Portable preamp/AD: 6- 14V
I thought about using a 12V to 16V converter to the laptop, and so woul have all devices conected to 12V, and so could easily use the car battery, or AC using a 220V-12V psu.
The problem is that using the 12 to 16 V for the laptop, a high noise from the laptop enters in the other devices, especially the wireless emisor.
I would like to know if it could be isolated diferent the diferent devices to avoid noise between them.
I suppose I would must to filter, but would be enough?
The other solution, could be use the 220-16V for the laptop. But then to use with the car, would need an inverter. Would this option have more comsumption?
What do you recomend?
Magma Chassis: 12V
Laptop: 16V
Wireless headphones emisor: 12V
Portable preamp/AD: 6- 14V
I thought about using a 12V to 16V converter to the laptop, and so woul have all devices conected to 12V, and so could easily use the car battery, or AC using a 220V-12V psu.
The problem is that using the 12 to 16 V for the laptop, a high noise from the laptop enters in the other devices, especially the wireless emisor.
I would like to know if it could be isolated diferent the diferent devices to avoid noise between them.
I suppose I would must to filter, but would be enough?
The other solution, could be use the 220-16V for the laptop. But then to use with the car, would need an inverter. Would this option have more comsumption?
What do you recomend?
12V SUPPLY SEVERAL PLACES
lagoausente:
A 12v single supply can be supplied to several points if the appliance with the same polarity ground, one important factor is that Ur 12v supply has enough current to deliver out. If the highest voltage used by one of the appliance is over 12v, let say 18v, then Ur supply voltage must not less than 18volts, and the lower voltage can be achieved by 78XX monolithic three terminal regulator. In sentence ( XX ) means the voltage you needed. If you clear the above points, then you will be fine with Ur power arrangement. Othwise you are putting yourself on the shaft.
WE CONSIDER RELIABILITY
lagoausente:
A 12v single supply can be supplied to several points if the appliance with the same polarity ground, one important factor is that Ur 12v supply has enough current to deliver out. If the highest voltage used by one of the appliance is over 12v, let say 18v, then Ur supply voltage must not less than 18volts, and the lower voltage can be achieved by 78XX monolithic three terminal regulator. In sentence ( XX ) means the voltage you needed. If you clear the above points, then you will be fine with Ur power arrangement. Othwise you are putting yourself on the shaft.
WE CONSIDER RELIABILITY
Re: 12V SUPPLY SEVERAL PLACES
Have this voltages issues have relation with the "ground loop"?
So, what you mean, is that in my setup, I would must have a 16V power supply for the laptop, and then a 16 to 12V for the other devices, isn´t?
So to can use the Car 12V, I would need an inverter 12-to 220, at least fot the laptop (220-16V)? would avoid the problem?
mitwrong said:lagoausente:
A 12v single supply can be supplied to several points if the appliance with the same polarity ground, one important factor is that Ur 12v supply has enough current to deliver out. If the highest voltage used by one of the appliance is over 12v, let say 18v, then Ur supply voltage must not less than 18volts, and the lower voltage can be achieved by 78XX monolithic three terminal regulator. In sentence ( XX ) means the voltage you needed. If you clear the above points, then you will be fine with Ur power arrangement. Othwise you are putting yourself on the shaft.
WE CONSIDER RELIABILITY
Have this voltages issues have relation with the "ground loop"?
So, what you mean, is that in my setup, I would must have a 16V power supply for the laptop, and then a 16 to 12V for the other devices, isn´t?
So to can use the Car 12V, I would need an inverter 12-to 220, at least fot the laptop (220-16V)? would avoid the problem?
Searching for "ground loop" have found some devices for car that is supposing to eliminate it: http://www.scosche.com/scosche_caraudio.aspx?CategoryID=33&ItemID=ES034
Do you think it would eliminate the noise using the 12V to 16V I have been using for the laptop'
Or maybe the best solution would be a 12 to 220 inverter,
and the 220 to 16 laptop supply?
Do you think it would eliminate the noise using the 12V to 16V I have been using for the laptop'
Or maybe the best solution would be a 12 to 220 inverter,
and the 220 to 16 laptop supply?
Multi-Voltage PSU
Hi lagoausente,
Here's another approach: One big +12V supply, powering directly, the components that run on +12V, like your Magma Chassis and Wireless headphones, and switching regulators for the other components. For the +16V (laptop), and the portable preamp (+6 to +14V), you could use National Semoconductor's SimpleSwitcher switching regulators.
From the +12V bus, you could use an LM2588 boost (step-up)regulator to step up the 12V to 16V to power the laptop, and an LM2596 buck (step-down) regulator to step down 12V to, say, 10V, to power the preamp. The following two datasheets, one for each chip,
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM2588.pdf
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM2596.pdf
will help you in designing a circuit suitable for each output you need. Since there would be two switching regulators operating in close proximity to each other, beat frequencies (the difference between two oscillators' frequencies) could be generated, causing undesirable interference.
To combat this, the two chips' clocks can be synchronized off one frequency. Here is a bonus Application note on that subject:
http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1082.pdf
It would seem that this solution is well-suited to your requirements. However, there are trade-offs and Pros and Cons for Switching -v- Linear regulation.
Switching Pros: Only one big transformer will be needed (220V-12V), and several small chips, each with rather high efficiency (low heat dissipation) would result in a rather small footprint.
Switching Cons: Possibility of interference from switching noise, Level of complexity relative to a linear regulator.
Linear Pros: relatively simple to build, noise-free operation by virtue of its design.
Linear Cons: relatively low efficiency, large size due to heat-dissipating components.
Getting back to the SimpleSwitcher chips, as their name implies, these chips are very easy to implement, as, in their simplest form, only a diode, coil, and two capacitors are necessary for regulation in the buck regulator, and a diode, coil, two caps and an R-C feedback compensation network are needed for the boost regulator.
Thew LM2588 Boost IC has a rating of 5A on the main switch. So, say your laptop's current draw is 3A at 16V for a 48W output, at a worst-case efficiency of 85%, you will need to switch 4.7A for an input of 12V, which is within the 5A limit. The datasheet for the '2588 helps in the selecting the right inductor and capacitor values, as well as adjusting the output feedback circuit to get your desired 16V.
Pretty much the same for the LM2596 Buck regulator chip, since it can supply 3A all day without getting too warm because if its 85-90% efficiency. So for a current draw of 1A at 10V (10W) at a worst-case efficiency of 80%, you will need to switch a little over 1.0 amps, which is well within the current rating of this chip.
Equationsd from the application note on synchronizing the two chips together can be adapted to the 10V and 16V you would need, with good -to-excellent results.
The 7-pin LM2588 is available in either a TO-220 or surface mount package. Same thing for the 5-pin LM2596.
Now for the important part: I have made many step-up and step-down circuits using these two, and many others from the SimpleSwitcher line. I have also done the aforementioned two-chip synchronization scheme for an application very similar to yours. These chips have produced outstanding results, and I am still amazed at their simplicity, robustness, reliability, and efficiency several years after constructing them.
Hope these rantings and ravings will help you in your efforts.
Cheers,
Steve
Hi lagoausente,
Here's another approach: One big +12V supply, powering directly, the components that run on +12V, like your Magma Chassis and Wireless headphones, and switching regulators for the other components. For the +16V (laptop), and the portable preamp (+6 to +14V), you could use National Semoconductor's SimpleSwitcher switching regulators.
From the +12V bus, you could use an LM2588 boost (step-up)regulator to step up the 12V to 16V to power the laptop, and an LM2596 buck (step-down) regulator to step down 12V to, say, 10V, to power the preamp. The following two datasheets, one for each chip,
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM2588.pdf
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM2596.pdf
will help you in designing a circuit suitable for each output you need. Since there would be two switching regulators operating in close proximity to each other, beat frequencies (the difference between two oscillators' frequencies) could be generated, causing undesirable interference.
To combat this, the two chips' clocks can be synchronized off one frequency. Here is a bonus Application note on that subject:
http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1082.pdf
It would seem that this solution is well-suited to your requirements. However, there are trade-offs and Pros and Cons for Switching -v- Linear regulation.
Switching Pros: Only one big transformer will be needed (220V-12V), and several small chips, each with rather high efficiency (low heat dissipation) would result in a rather small footprint.
Switching Cons: Possibility of interference from switching noise, Level of complexity relative to a linear regulator.
Linear Pros: relatively simple to build, noise-free operation by virtue of its design.
Linear Cons: relatively low efficiency, large size due to heat-dissipating components.
Getting back to the SimpleSwitcher chips, as their name implies, these chips are very easy to implement, as, in their simplest form, only a diode, coil, and two capacitors are necessary for regulation in the buck regulator, and a diode, coil, two caps and an R-C feedback compensation network are needed for the boost regulator.
Thew LM2588 Boost IC has a rating of 5A on the main switch. So, say your laptop's current draw is 3A at 16V for a 48W output, at a worst-case efficiency of 85%, you will need to switch 4.7A for an input of 12V, which is within the 5A limit. The datasheet for the '2588 helps in the selecting the right inductor and capacitor values, as well as adjusting the output feedback circuit to get your desired 16V.
Pretty much the same for the LM2596 Buck regulator chip, since it can supply 3A all day without getting too warm because if its 85-90% efficiency. So for a current draw of 1A at 10V (10W) at a worst-case efficiency of 80%, you will need to switch a little over 1.0 amps, which is well within the current rating of this chip.
Equationsd from the application note on synchronizing the two chips together can be adapted to the 10V and 16V you would need, with good -to-excellent results.
The 7-pin LM2588 is available in either a TO-220 or surface mount package. Same thing for the 5-pin LM2596.
Now for the important part: I have made many step-up and step-down circuits using these two, and many others from the SimpleSwitcher line. I have also done the aforementioned two-chip synchronization scheme for an application very similar to yours. These chips have produced outstanding results, and I am still amazed at their simplicity, robustness, reliability, and efficiency several years after constructing them.
Hope these rantings and ravings will help you in your efforts.
Cheers,
Steve
Thanks N-Channel for your complete reply.
I have opened the 12V to 16V converter I was using, and seems near the same you described, but seems not the same IC.
A coil and caps on input, diode (three legs), IC, caps and out coil.
This converter is a Switching type, also. My doubt now if the problem is only about the IC used. It seems rare to me that.
Note that the noise present on the 12V section, comes from the computer, not itself for the own swithing noise. I had conected also a lead battery as 12V supply, and the noise persists.
As I tell, the noise is not "switching noise" , is the noise from the computer, since open/closing windows, and increasing cpu use, model the noise.
Maybe more probable be the ground loop issue?
I could read some letter of the IC used on the DC-DC converter I use: 5aa7d ?
tl598 ?
I coudn´t read the last letters, don´t know if are N, or H.
The portable 6-14V can be forgoten, since I can run it with batteries, because has very lo consumption.
The main problem is on the 12-16 step, and I suspect that building the converter you suggested, maybe would have just the same ground loop?
I´m googling on it, but if you have any idea of how can be fixed, if can be done, let me know.
PD: Do you know if I could supply a 12VAC, taking a 12V battery and an oscilator? Easy to do the oscilator? or can be buyed?
I have opened the 12V to 16V converter I was using, and seems near the same you described, but seems not the same IC.
A coil and caps on input, diode (three legs), IC, caps and out coil.
This converter is a Switching type, also. My doubt now if the problem is only about the IC used. It seems rare to me that.
Note that the noise present on the 12V section, comes from the computer, not itself for the own swithing noise. I had conected also a lead battery as 12V supply, and the noise persists.
As I tell, the noise is not "switching noise" , is the noise from the computer, since open/closing windows, and increasing cpu use, model the noise.
Maybe more probable be the ground loop issue?
I could read some letter of the IC used on the DC-DC converter I use: 5aa7d ?
tl598 ?
I coudn´t read the last letters, don´t know if are N, or H.
The portable 6-14V can be forgoten, since I can run it with batteries, because has very lo consumption.
The main problem is on the 12-16 step, and I suspect that building the converter you suggested, maybe would have just the same ground loop?
I´m googling on it, but if you have any idea of how can be fixed, if can be done, let me know.
PD: Do you know if I could supply a 12VAC, taking a 12V battery and an oscilator? Easy to do the oscilator? or can be buyed?
A TL598 is a relatively new chip for National Semiconductor. It has roughly the same capabilities and features as the industry workhorse, the SG3525 voltage-mode PWM IC.
The converter you cracked open is a discrete circuit, and not a SimpleSwitcher. THis is probably because you might be drawing more than 5A. Theoretically, the max. current you can run with a discrete regulator would be limited only by your switching MOSFET, boost diode and coil, theoretically.
I would believe that what appears as a "three-legged" diode may actually be the N-Channel MOSFET switch. The other chip I thought you might be referring to is the UC3843 Single-channel current-mode PWM IC in the 8-pin DIP package. This chip is common in DC-DC boost converters where the start voltage could be as low as 8V. This chip then drives the MOSFET which switches the coil on-and-off anywhere from 25kHz to over 100kHz.
I wouldn't worry too much about ground loops with the SimpleSwitcher step-up chips, when they are used in straight, non-isolated step-up configuration. I have not used them in flyback config. yet, so I cannot comment on this setup, but for step-up, they are a very robust chip.
Can you post any pics of this step-up converter?
The converter you cracked open is a discrete circuit, and not a SimpleSwitcher. THis is probably because you might be drawing more than 5A. Theoretically, the max. current you can run with a discrete regulator would be limited only by your switching MOSFET, boost diode and coil, theoretically.
I would believe that what appears as a "three-legged" diode may actually be the N-Channel MOSFET switch. The other chip I thought you might be referring to is the UC3843 Single-channel current-mode PWM IC in the 8-pin DIP package. This chip is common in DC-DC boost converters where the start voltage could be as low as 8V. This chip then drives the MOSFET which switches the coil on-and-off anywhere from 25kHz to over 100kHz.
I wouldn't worry too much about ground loops with the SimpleSwitcher step-up chips, when they are used in straight, non-isolated step-up configuration. I have not used them in flyback config. yet, so I cannot comment on this setup, but for step-up, they are a very robust chip.
Can you post any pics of this step-up converter?
a 12v supply provide the pwr.
Hi,
As I said, If U use the single source to supply several points, U have to identify the ground potential. if all use the neg. ground. the problem can be easily solved. If not, may be try smps by using TL494 PWM control IC, then wire Ur special core, ( transformer ). with 4 windings. Each winding satisfies each appliance. this way can ignore the ground potential, no matter pos. or neg. gnd. only thing to notice is the filtering cap. for noise and outside interference.
If single supply can be applied, U have to choose the highest voltage U needed. eg. 16V, then U drop to 12V by monolitic IC, such as 78hc12, these ic can deliver 5 amps. actual spec. pls consult manufacturer. Don't forget to put filter cap. on the in / out side with a .1uf in parallel with.
if the first method to be employed, from the web U can get the schematic.
WE CONDIDER SAFETY AND RELIABILITY
Hi,
As I said, If U use the single source to supply several points, U have to identify the ground potential. if all use the neg. ground. the problem can be easily solved. If not, may be try smps by using TL494 PWM control IC, then wire Ur special core, ( transformer ). with 4 windings. Each winding satisfies each appliance. this way can ignore the ground potential, no matter pos. or neg. gnd. only thing to notice is the filtering cap. for noise and outside interference.
If single supply can be applied, U have to choose the highest voltage U needed. eg. 16V, then U drop to 12V by monolitic IC, such as 78hc12, these ic can deliver 5 amps. actual spec. pls consult manufacturer. Don't forget to put filter cap. on the in / out side with a .1uf in parallel with.
if the first method to be employed, from the web U can get the schematic.
WE CONDIDER SAFETY AND RELIABILITY
Re: a 12v supply provide the pwr.
I want to supply 12V to diferent points. That´s just to can be compatible with batteries and specially on car battery.
What exactly mean "ground potencial"?
Till I know, all my devices ground are conected. I don´t know exaclty if inside them have any component that separate it, But I assume they don´t.
So if can be easily solved, how can do it?
mitwrong said:Hi,
As I said, If U use the single source to supply several points, U have to identify the ground potential. if all use the neg. ground. the problem can be easily solved. If not, may be try smps by using TL494 PWM control IC, then wire Ur special core, ( transformer ). with 4 windings. Each winding satisfies each appliance. this way can ignore the ground potential, no matter pos. or neg. gnd. only thing to notice is the filtering cap. for noise and outside interference.
If single supply can be applied, U have to choose the highest voltage U needed. eg. 16V, then U drop to 12V by monolitic IC, such as 78hc12, these ic can deliver 5 amps. actual spec. pls consult manufacturer. Don't forget to put filter cap. on the in / out side with a .1uf in parallel with.
if the first method to be employed, from the web U can get the schematic.
WE CONDIDER SAFETY AND RELIABILITY
I want to supply 12V to diferent points. That´s just to can be compatible with batteries and specially on car battery.
What exactly mean "ground potencial"?
Till I know, all my devices ground are conected. I don´t know exaclty if inside them have any component that separate it, But I assume they don´t.
So if can be easily solved, how can do it?
Laq-
I never did ask the currents you were drawing, but if you're drawing anything over, say, 2Amps, then droping 16V to 12V using an 78HC12 linear requlatore will dissipate alot of power in waste heat. Not real efficient. Hence the suggestion of the SimpleSwitchers. I would go to National's website and search for SimpleSwitchers. You will find out more than you ever wanted to know about them and how easy they are to implement.
Steve
I never did ask the currents you were drawing, but if you're drawing anything over, say, 2Amps, then droping 16V to 12V using an 78HC12 linear requlatore will dissipate alot of power in waste heat. Not real efficient. Hence the suggestion of the SimpleSwitchers. I would go to National's website and search for SimpleSwitchers. You will find out more than you ever wanted to know about them and how easy they are to implement.
Steve
The higher consum device is the laptop, and is not around 1A 10.8V.
The Magma is 0.5 amp.
The wireless headpones emisor, a few ma.
The preamp/AD I will use independent battery.
The doubt is if the problem is itself the ground, or if not.
If is ground, and how is conected, maybe would work with the current 12-16V, I´m having, so maybe could try this first, and then if no works, build the IC setup you recomend.
What must I do with the ground?
The Magma is 0.5 amp.
The wireless headpones emisor, a few ma.
The preamp/AD I will use independent battery.
The doubt is if the problem is itself the ground, or if not.
If is ground, and how is conected, maybe would work with the current 12-16V, I´m having, so maybe could try this first, and then if no works, build the IC setup you recomend.
What must I do with the ground?
identify groung loop
The easily way to identify ground is simple, just use a volt meter to measure the common point ( the point that joins all app. together ) or simply say the casing potential, you don't need to know how the inside circuit, you only need the metal frame or the outside ring of the dc plug. You only need to know this common point voltage referenced to the other voltage point.
Thus u can find out each appliance common potential, +ve or -ve, that would be enough for u to solve the problem.
If diff. groung volt ( some +ve, some -ve ) then u have to use individual ps. some switcher has multiple output, and u have to give up the single 12v concept.
WE CONSIDER SAFETY AND RELIABLE
The easily way to identify ground is simple, just use a volt meter to measure the common point ( the point that joins all app. together ) or simply say the casing potential, you don't need to know how the inside circuit, you only need the metal frame or the outside ring of the dc plug. You only need to know this common point voltage referenced to the other voltage point.
Thus u can find out each appliance common potential, +ve or -ve, that would be enough for u to solve the problem.
If diff. groung volt ( some +ve, some -ve ) then u have to use individual ps. some switcher has multiple output, and u have to give up the single 12v concept.
WE CONSIDER SAFETY AND RELIABLE
Re: identify groung loop
Well, I confess I thought that there would not voltage at all between ground devices, since they were common.
I´m still quite lost. Measuring voltage between 12V ground supply, and devices ground gives all positive values, very little.
As I told, I though would be totally 0V.
About the common 12V idea, I´m now not totally sure. The Preamp/AD I was going to buy was an Apogee Mini-me, but the guy seems have doubts and more doubts about international shipment, security of paypal etc etc.
I would need to look for another one, or maybe another diferent device.
At the same time, I have been in mind about building DIY my own preamp, and AD. As AD I was told about the eval board CBD5381 from Cirrus Logic. It costs around 360$, and have been told, changing the op-amps and some caps, would be a great killer AD.
For both, the Eval board and the DIY preamp, if I would decide to go that way, woul require +/- Voltages over than 12V. But to build a 12V to for example +/- 15V would be not easy? Or maybe not better performance?
The other posibility of using a 12V to 220 inverter, pure sine wave, maybe would solve problems. Maybe the bad points would be the % performance of the inverter, and then individual power supplies, that maybe would require extra innecesary consume? and maybe quite more heavy case..
Well, I´m complicating things with my new preamp /AD thoughts, but if I´m not wrong maybe you´ll find the thread more interesting, I hope.
mitwrong said:The easily way to identify ground is simple, just use a volt meter to measure the common point ( the point that joins all app. together ) or simply say the casing potential, you don't need to know how the inside circuit, you only need the metal frame or the outside ring of the dc plug. You only need to know this common point voltage referenced to the other voltage point.
Thus u can find out each appliance common potential, +ve or -ve, that would be enough for u to solve the problem.
If diff. groung volt ( some +ve, some -ve ) then u have to use individual ps. some switcher has multiple output, and u have to give up the single 12v concept.
WE CONSIDER SAFETY AND RELIABLE
Well, I confess I thought that there would not voltage at all between ground devices, since they were common.
I´m still quite lost. Measuring voltage between 12V ground supply, and devices ground gives all positive values, very little.
As I told, I though would be totally 0V.
About the common 12V idea, I´m now not totally sure. The Preamp/AD I was going to buy was an Apogee Mini-me, but the guy seems have doubts and more doubts about international shipment, security of paypal etc etc.
I would need to look for another one, or maybe another diferent device.
At the same time, I have been in mind about building DIY my own preamp, and AD. As AD I was told about the eval board CBD5381 from Cirrus Logic. It costs around 360$, and have been told, changing the op-amps and some caps, would be a great killer AD.
For both, the Eval board and the DIY preamp, if I would decide to go that way, woul require +/- Voltages over than 12V. But to build a 12V to for example +/- 15V would be not easy? Or maybe not better performance?
The other posibility of using a 12V to 220 inverter, pure sine wave, maybe would solve problems. Maybe the bad points would be the % performance of the inverter, and then individual power supplies, that maybe would require extra innecesary consume? and maybe quite more heavy case..
Well, I´m complicating things with my new preamp /AD thoughts, but if I´m not wrong maybe you´ll find the thread more interesting, I hope.
isolate 12v dc
Hay,Gent:
I read your post#14, and make me a little confuse, you mentioned a lot of appliance that I am not that familiar with. i just want to help you to solve your problem. to simplify the matter, you have to know if the app. use a dc source, you just measure the outer ring of the dc plug, with respect to the center pole. then mark the polarity.
If the app. use an ac source, then u have to use a 12v-220v converter. A 12vdc source is not capable to supply a 16v app. therefore u need something called step up method, many way can do this job, such as by doubling capacitor volt with a multivibrator controlled 2 pwr tr. then 12v becomes 24v, then use a lm338 tune down to 16v with regulation.
For the rest app. just direct supply the 12v with a diode in5404 to isolate each individual app. For better result, parallel a cap, 1000uf, at each app. source point. this method, I've been used in many application with excellent result. the important thing is all app. use the same potential neg. ground.
If ground pot. is diff. another method is use a dc-dc converter which cct. employs a isolate transformer, then 12v neg. ground changed to pos. ground without shorting your car battery.
WE CONSIDER SAFETY, NO FIRE HAZARD
Hay,Gent:
I read your post#14, and make me a little confuse, you mentioned a lot of appliance that I am not that familiar with. i just want to help you to solve your problem. to simplify the matter, you have to know if the app. use a dc source, you just measure the outer ring of the dc plug, with respect to the center pole. then mark the polarity.
If the app. use an ac source, then u have to use a 12v-220v converter. A 12vdc source is not capable to supply a 16v app. therefore u need something called step up method, many way can do this job, such as by doubling capacitor volt with a multivibrator controlled 2 pwr tr. then 12v becomes 24v, then use a lm338 tune down to 16v with regulation.
For the rest app. just direct supply the 12v with a diode in5404 to isolate each individual app. For better result, parallel a cap, 1000uf, at each app. source point. this method, I've been used in many application with excellent result. the important thing is all app. use the same potential neg. ground.
If ground pot. is diff. another method is use a dc-dc converter which cct. employs a isolate transformer, then 12v neg. ground changed to pos. ground without shorting your car battery.
WE CONSIDER SAFETY, NO FIRE HAZARD
Sorry, I didn´t understand ok at first.
Polarity a the same on all devices. All positive.
N-Channel mentioned a IC to can get 16V from 12v. I´m having a comercial one that do it also.
Maybe trying the diode and cap could solve it. What´s type of diode is? can buy it on a current electonic store of must get in on internet?
The use of 220 would be another topic. Not exactly would need 220. I would need a supply from 12V to the required on the preamp, for example +/- 15 +/- 32 or what voltage would require.
Perhaps don´t need to go to 220V AC first to this +/- supplies?
Maybe I would need to start another topic for this.
Polarity a the same on all devices. All positive.
N-Channel mentioned a IC to can get 16V from 12v. I´m having a comercial one that do it also.
Maybe trying the diode and cap could solve it. What´s type of diode is? can buy it on a current electonic store of must get in on internet?
The use of 220 would be another topic. Not exactly would need 220. I would need a supply from 12V to the required on the preamp, for example +/- 15 +/- 32 or what voltage would require.
Perhaps don´t need to go to 220V AC first to this +/- supplies?
Maybe I would need to start another topic for this.
Re: Multi-Voltage PSU
Can be a good option to supply a preamp with +- voltages? I mean, what about performance using them with high-end preamps and AD converters?
N-Channel, have you experience with AD conversion? I´m thinking about a eval board from Cirrus Logic, and the posibility of SMPS for it´s +- voltages.
Mytek 192k, has a 12V DC supply inside, but don´t know if it´s SMPS.
N-Channel said:
Can be a good option to supply a preamp with +- voltages? I mean, what about performance using them with high-end preamps and AD converters?
N-Channel, have you experience with AD conversion? I´m thinking about a eval board from Cirrus Logic, and the posibility of SMPS for it´s +- voltages.
Mytek 192k, has a 12V DC supply inside, but don´t know if it´s SMPS.
smps
Hi.Laq:
Smps is stand for Switching Mode Power Supply. A simpleswitcher is a simple type of smps, the function is almost the same, It uses PWM technique to control the output power, something like a large bucket of water with a small tap, when you turn on the tap, water goes out, as much as u want. PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation, like the tap, to control the power instead of water.
A completed smps include input, pwm, output element ( usually mos fet ), ferric core transformer, schottky rectifier, filter, feedback loop by means of optic coupler stages. A simpleswitcher just convert the input voltage into the desired voltage with least minimum component. It may not have feedback loop, noise filter, protect cct. It's basic theory is by switching, may not employ PWM method. I mentioned in post#15 a multivibrator controls 2 tr. to double the voltage is another switching method, but it doesn't need a transformer, or using pwm concept. It just utilize the flip-flop mode of the mv. then turns on / off the 2 tr. alternatively to charge up the two caps in series. thus u get twice the voltage as the supplied voltage. Diode used to isolate the upper and lower cap. without shorting the control cct, and the 2 tr. Tr. can replaced by 2 fets to improve efficience, some cct. may employs Germanium transistor due to it's B-E voltage = 0.2v, far lower than silicon =0.6v.
Circuit design is up to the end user, most cct have advantage and disadvantage. It depends how u wants it.
Circuit can be found on web, so i don't waste space to discuss here.
WE CONSIDER EFFICIENCE
Hi.Laq:
Smps is stand for Switching Mode Power Supply. A simpleswitcher is a simple type of smps, the function is almost the same, It uses PWM technique to control the output power, something like a large bucket of water with a small tap, when you turn on the tap, water goes out, as much as u want. PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation, like the tap, to control the power instead of water.
A completed smps include input, pwm, output element ( usually mos fet ), ferric core transformer, schottky rectifier, filter, feedback loop by means of optic coupler stages. A simpleswitcher just convert the input voltage into the desired voltage with least minimum component. It may not have feedback loop, noise filter, protect cct. It's basic theory is by switching, may not employ PWM method. I mentioned in post#15 a multivibrator controls 2 tr. to double the voltage is another switching method, but it doesn't need a transformer, or using pwm concept. It just utilize the flip-flop mode of the mv. then turns on / off the 2 tr. alternatively to charge up the two caps in series. thus u get twice the voltage as the supplied voltage. Diode used to isolate the upper and lower cap. without shorting the control cct, and the 2 tr. Tr. can replaced by 2 fets to improve efficience, some cct. may employs Germanium transistor due to it's B-E voltage = 0.2v, far lower than silicon =0.6v.
Circuit design is up to the end user, most cct have advantage and disadvantage. It depends how u wants it.
Circuit can be found on web, so i don't waste space to discuss here.
WE CONSIDER EFFICIENCE
Re: smps
Well, and what option would asure me to feed the laptop, and avoid entering noise back to the battery?
Simpleswitch?
Complete SMPS with PWM, filter etc?
N-Channel wrote:
I have found this issue very interesting and opened me some doors. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90125
mitwrong said:
Well, and what option would asure me to feed the laptop, and avoid entering noise back to the battery?
Simpleswitch?
Complete SMPS with PWM, filter etc?
N-Channel wrote:
So what type of converter have I? As I understand the TL598 is the PWC IC, so I´m having a SMPS? If yes, I asume would better improve it, instead of building another one.
I have found this issue very interesting and opened me some doors. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90125
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