PCB for HV Regulator

jackinnj · 14th January 2006, 01:50 AM

I am thinking of having PCB's made for this regulator using the Supertex LR8N3 -- size will be about 3" x 2 " -- wondering whether, in fact, 330u/450V isn't overkill. Bypass caps are WIMA MKP's (but choice is up to you.) I estimate the cost (net of shipping) to be something less than $3.00/board. Note that on the PCB I alot space for the MJE3439 or a BU205A. Email me if interested: jack@tech-diy.com I haven't sent the design out so am awaiting suggestions. As usual, but not always, this is a Mother Theresa project.

ps -- about 1/2 of the Last-PAS regulator boards are gone.

jackinnj · 14th January 2006, 02:10 AM

3D Rendering:

Eva · 14th January 2006, 02:11 AM

Do you really need a double sided board?

Why don't you draw wide polygons in order to use as much copper area as possible and reduce the amount of wasted copper (particularly useful for DIY PCB manufacturing)?

Do you really need two transistor mounting locations? I would just put the TO-220 or TO-126 and the TO-247 or TO-263 one over the other and retouch the pads a bit...

jackinnj · 14th January 2006, 02:19 AM

EVA:

I hadn't drawn in the powerplane -- usually I set this as a different NET than "0" and connect at one locus. I have found these designs to be very, very quiet and stable using this grounding methodology.

The TO-247 case for the BU205 (actually TO-218) is a different pinout than the MJE3439. The MJE3439 is ECB, the BU205 is BCE. I guess you could "flop" one or the other -- but they must be heatsinked in any case.

btw, the LR8N3 costs about $0.65

Bakmeel · 15th January 2006, 09:14 PM

I think it's OK, but only one advice:

The ground pin on R2 is getting awfully close to the 280V regulated output trace. I advice a little more spacing there... 3 millimeters at least to be on the safe side.

Second, but this is for your personal taste only: This layout can be done on a single layer... Do save your manufacturing costs and try to work those two traces to the soldering side....

Cheers

jackinnj · 16th January 2006, 01:23 AM

ok, flop the MJE3439 -- it takes a smallish heat sink anyway -- the PCB is about 0.25 inch wider (adds about $0.07 to the cost):

Bakmeel · 17th January 2006, 08:37 PM

that looks just fine... got no more comments

there is no difference in price between double sided pcb's or single sided??

jcx · 20th January 2006, 05:11 PM

how "HV"? - Is there any creepage spacing consideration

given some trace separation requirement it probably helps to use opposite sides of the board for the 2 unreg input traces and large ground plane clearances everywhere

jackinnj · 3rd February 2006, 02:47 PM

here's what the first protoype looks like == there are some things I don't like -- the connectors are too close to the mounting holes (even though I bought some nylon spacers, it wouldn't be my default choice). I used 1.0 uF 400V WIMA PP on the output == there is about 50mV of "noise" (on 292 VDC out) == but it does take the wrinkles out. FWIW the "Last PAS" regulator has much less noise (but is much, much more expensive):

Bakmeel · 4th February 2006, 08:27 AM

Have you considered a high voltage ceramic capacitor parallel to the wima?

Cheers

14th January 2006, 01:50 AM	#1
jackinnj diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Llanddewi Brefi, NJ	PCB for HV Regulator I am thinking of having PCB's made for this regulator using the Supertex LR8N3 -- size will be about 3" x 2 " -- wondering whether, in fact, 330u/450V isn't overkill. Bypass caps are WIMA MKP's (but choice is up to you.) I estimate the cost (net of shipping) to be something less than $3.00/board. Note that on the PCB I alot space for the MJE3439 or a BU205A. Email me if interested: jack@tech-diy.com I haven't sent the design out so am awaiting suggestions. As usual, but not always, this is a Mother Theresa project. ps -- about 1/2 of the Last-PAS regulator boards are gone.

15th January 2006, 09:14 PM	#5
Bakmeel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: The Netherlands	I think it's OK, but only one advice: The ground pin on R2 is getting awfully close to the 280V regulated output trace. I advice a little more spacing there... 3 millimeters at least to be on the safe side. Second, but this is for your personal taste only: This layout can be done on a single layer... Do save your manufacturing costs and try to work those two traces to the soldering side.... Cheers __________________ More Power Igor! More Power!

17th January 2006, 08:37 PM	#7
Bakmeel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: The Netherlands	that looks just fine... got no more comments there is no difference in price between double sided pcb's or single sided?? __________________ More Power Igor! More Power!

4th February 2006, 08:27 AM	#10
Bakmeel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: The Netherlands	Have you considered a high voltage ceramic capacitor parallel to the wima? Cheers __________________ More Power Igor! More Power!

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14th January 2006, 02:10 AM	#2
jackinnj diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Llanddewi Brefi, NJ	3D Rendering:

14th January 2006, 02:11 AM	#3
Eva diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Near the sea	Do you really need a double sided board? Why don't you draw wide polygons in order to use as much copper area as possible and reduce the amount of wasted copper (particularly useful for DIY PCB manufacturing)? Do you really need two transistor mounting locations? I would just put the TO-220 or TO-126 and the TO-247 or TO-263 one over the other and retouch the pads a bit...

14th January 2006, 02:19 AM	#4
jackinnj diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Llanddewi Brefi, NJ	EVA: I hadn't drawn in the powerplane -- usually I set this as a different NET than "0" and connect at one locus. I have found these designs to be very, very quiet and stable using this grounding methodology. The TO-247 case for the BU205 (actually TO-218) is a different pinout than the MJE3439. The MJE3439 is ECB, the BU205 is BCE. I guess you could "flop" one or the other -- but they must be heatsinked in any case. btw, the LR8N3 costs about $0.65

16th January 2006, 01:23 AM	#6
jackinnj diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Llanddewi Brefi, NJ	ok, flop the MJE3439 -- it takes a smallish heat sink anyway -- the PCB is about 0.25 inch wider (adds about $0.07 to the cost):

20th January 2006, 05:11 PM	#8
jcx diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: ..	how "HV"? - Is there any creepage spacing consideration given some trace separation requirement it probably helps to use opposite sides of the board for the 2 unreg input traces and large ground plane clearances everywhere

3rd February 2006, 02:47 PM	#9
jackinnj diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Llanddewi Brefi, NJ	here's what the first protoype looks like == there are some things I don't like -- the connectors are too close to the mounting holes (even though I bought some nylon spacers, it wouldn't be my default choice). I used 1.0 uF 400V WIMA PP on the output == there is about 50mV of "noise" (on 292 VDC out) == but it does take the wrinkles out. FWIW the "Last PAS" regulator has much less noise (but is much, much more expensive):

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