I only know a bit about this. The RMS voltage output of your device will be 230v, however the frequency and the amplitute of that sin wave will probably not be the same as your residential power. That said, inverters work perfectly for resistive loads like lamps and heaters, but could have trouble with systems which require that certain sin function.
Switching power is beyond my ken in the minute details really, that was just a suggestion. This is the ultimate solution, but may be more challenging and/or expensive than other approaches.
A linear regulator is essentially just burning away the difference between voltage in and desired output. Glass smooth DC in exchange for heat.
LM338 datasheet has some examples.
A linear regulator is essentially just burning away the difference between voltage in and desired output. Glass smooth DC in exchange for heat.
LM338 datasheet has some examples.
In my opinion, inverter doesn't like the input capacitors of the pc power supply. I think that at the first moment, they look like a short circuit for the inverter's output and probably a current protection acts.
Connect a resistor between the inverter's output and pc power supply and try again. If it works you can bypass then the resistor with a relay or a triac.
Regards,
Florin
Connect a resistor between the inverter's output and pc power supply and try again. If it works you can bypass then the resistor with a relay or a triac.
Regards,
Florin
You could probably use linear regulators since you have a 12V input.
Remember that in PC systems that old, the CPU etc. drew power from 3.3 V rails. So you have to have a very robust regulator/series pass on that rail, at least 15 amps current draw.
Check out www.mp3car.com they have links to some nice 90 watt SMPS supplies for car PC. May suit yyour requirement, some of them are so small they'll plug into the ATX connector directly!!
Remember that in PC systems that old, the CPU etc. drew power from 3.3 V rails. So you have to have a very robust regulator/series pass on that rail, at least 15 amps current draw.
Check out www.mp3car.com they have links to some nice 90 watt SMPS supplies for car PC. May suit yyour requirement, some of them are so small they'll plug into the ATX connector directly!!
hi,
there are great differences in that converters output sine wave, look into eBay descriptions (for example) and dont buy the cheapest, better the most expensive
.
Be sure that you get much overhead, for example your PC (in this case) take about 70-80 watts input, get an inverter with 600 watts.
Also try a very good Power Supply like heavy-weight/great quality Fortron Source (FSP).
As you dont need so big PSU you can also look for FSP 145 (i.E. 145-50 NI on eBay), these are Mini or Micro ATX PSUs with short cables and different mounting, but save space. I drove an Athlon Barton 2400 XP + GF2 GTS + 4 Harddrives + more (full load 170 Watts) with this without any Problems (but gets warm) on a PSU-test setup.
http://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fsp12yn.jpg
To save more energy you can change the ATI to a 2D-only Matrox PCI Card, i.E. "Matrox Millenium" if you dont need 3D.
have fun,
tom
there are great differences in that converters output sine wave, look into eBay descriptions (for example) and dont buy the cheapest, better the most expensive
.Be sure that you get much overhead, for example your PC (in this case) take about 70-80 watts input, get an inverter with 600 watts.
Also try a very good Power Supply like heavy-weight/great quality Fortron Source (FSP).
As you dont need so big PSU you can also look for FSP 145 (i.E. 145-50 NI on eBay), these are Mini or Micro ATX PSUs with short cables and different mounting, but save space. I drove an Athlon Barton 2400 XP + GF2 GTS + 4 Harddrives + more (full load 170 Watts) with this without any Problems (but gets warm) on a PSU-test setup.
http://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fsp12yn.jpg
To save more energy you can change the ATI to a 2D-only Matrox PCI Card, i.E. "Matrox Millenium" if you dont need 3D.
have fun,
tom
Here's a linear setup I tossed together for an AT style motherboard.
For ATX you'd need to add the 3.3V regulator,and a constant +5V For "standby".
http://www.users.qwest.net/~ptaylor/Electronics/DC-PCsupply/12Vdc_PC_power_supply.html
For ATX you'd need to add the 3.3V regulator,and a constant +5V For "standby".
http://www.users.qwest.net/~ptaylor/Electronics/DC-PCsupply/12Vdc_PC_power_supply.html
What happens if you plug in both the lamp AND the computer PS (use a power outlet strip if the inverter has only one outlet)?
Does the lamp go off when you try to switch the computer on?
Does it dim significantly?
If the computer comes on while the lamp is plugged in, will it remain on if the lamp is unplugged?
Does the lamp go off when you try to switch the computer on?
Does it dim significantly?
If the computer comes on while the lamp is plugged in, will it remain on if the lamp is unplugged?
http://www.mp3car.com/store/index.php?cPath=21&osCsid=2b1d57ed0b3bc5508fc9caf41cc624e2
lot of dc/dc atx mini xtx power supplys
lot of dc/dc atx mini xtx power supplys
design a power switch with UC3842
I would like to design a power switch with UC3842,
220vac input , 150W,
flyback structure,
multi output of +/-5v, +/-12V,15V,all are 3A.
from the datasheet of UC3842,
there are some reference circuit,
but if I want to design a novel circuit so as to get better performance.
what should i do ,a novel voltage sample circuit or other new idear about this design.
anyone who are familiar with UC3842,please give me some suggestion,
I would like to design a power switch with UC3842,
220vac input , 150W,
flyback structure,
multi output of +/-5v, +/-12V,15V,all are 3A.
from the datasheet of UC3842,
there are some reference circuit,
but if I want to design a novel circuit so as to get better performance.
what should i do ,a novel voltage sample circuit or other new idear about this design.
anyone who are familiar with UC3842,please give me some suggestion,
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