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 21st July 2005, 12:43 PM #11 diyAudio Member     Join Date: May 2002 Location: The great city of Turnhout, BE Blog Entries: 7 Yes, you really should measure the in/output of the opamp. Second guessing and groping around in the dark is VERY inefficient. You're still off on Vout. Across the 890 ohms there is 6.9 V. Therefore, across the 1130 there is 1130/890 * 6.9 = 8.76 volts. Therefore, Vout = 15.66V. Since the opamp needs some volts to operate, and you also loose some in the series transistor, you need probably a minimum of 20VDC input under load. Please check. Jan Didden __________________ Whether we like to think of it this way or not, an audio engineer shares the professional goal of a magician - Richard Heyser Linear Audio Vol 12 is out! Check out my Autoranger and SilentSwitcher
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Llanddewi Brefi, NJ
Quote:
 Originally posted by janneman Yes, you really should measure the in/output of the opamp. Second guessing and groping around in the dark is VERY inefficient. You're still off on Vout. Across the 890 ohms there is 6.9 V. Therefore, across the 1130 there is 1130/890 * 6.9 = 8.76 volts. Therefore, Vout = 15.66V. Since the opamp needs some volts to operate, and you also loose some in the series transistor, you need probably a minimum of 20VDC input under load. Please check. Jan Didden

you also lose across the LM317 pre-regulator -- (the version which I built did not incorporate this.)

 21st July 2005, 02:25 PM #13 diyAudio Member     Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Grey Eagle, Minnesota As for the Vout, switch the two resistor values you're using and you'll get my 12.33V. Across the 1130 ohms there is 6.9 V. Therefore, across the 890 there is 890/1130 * 6.9 = 5.43 volts. Therefore, Vout = 12.33V. I'm using a 1n5235 zener to the collector of Q2. I'll measure voltages as soon as I get home. Thanks again for all the help!
 21st July 2005, 04:56 PM #14 diyAudio Member     Join Date: May 2002 Location: The great city of Turnhout, BE Blog Entries: 7 We may still talk about different things. I'm not using R1, R2, you are. In the Jung schematic where there are R1 and R2, I see a 1N4148 diode, not a zener. And in that diagram, Vout = 15,66, sorry. How many volts is that zener? What else is different? Can you post a diagram of the one YOU buiilt? We may catch something that went unnoticed so far. Jan Didden __________________ Whether we like to think of it this way or not, an audio engineer shares the professional goal of a magician - Richard Heyser Linear Audio Vol 12 is out! Check out my Autoranger and SilentSwitcher
 21st July 2005, 05:24 PM #15 diyAudio Member     Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Grey Eagle, Minnesota Oh, sorry. It's the "Jung Super Regulator 2" on that site. http://tangentsoft.net/elec/bitmaps/...lator-2000.png The zener is 1N5235B, 6.8V. Could anyone explain the variations in voltage across different loads? Thanks!
 22nd July 2005, 12:58 AM #16 diyAudio Member     Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Grey Eagle, Minnesota Pin 6 (output) has 13.5V (w/ respect to ground)on it with the 250 ohm load. There is a 4.35 difference between +In and Output. With no load, Pin 6 has 17.9V and there is 6V between +In and Output. The voltage difference btween +In and Ouput are the same polarity - one isn't negative. ?

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