If you have 3 of those transformers, you can connect the primaries in parallel and the secondaries in consecutive order. The central point then will then be the central point of the second transformer.
If you want to design a DC power-supply, you can use a single 2x12 transformer and a voltage tripler (using diodes and capacitors). But in fact it is not a good idea, because for the same noise level as with a 2x36 V transformer you have to use at least three times larger capacities (e.g. not 5000 uF, but 15000 uF).
The third option is to rewire the transformer, but I haven't done that much, and can't give you any advice.
The best option is to quit inventing a bicycle and to buy a new transformer.
If you want to design a DC power-supply, you can use a single 2x12 transformer and a voltage tripler (using diodes and capacitors). But in fact it is not a good idea, because for the same noise level as with a 2x36 V transformer you have to use at least three times larger capacities (e.g. not 5000 uF, but 15000 uF).
The third option is to rewire the transformer, but I haven't done that much, and can't give you any advice.
The best option is to quit inventing a bicycle and to buy a new transformer.
Are you talinkg about electronic transformers for halogen lamps?
Remember that these ones provide approx. 35Khz AC output amplitude-modulated by the 50/60Hz mains fundamental so they are almost useless for anything but powering resistive loads. Shall a capacitive load be used the switching circuit may blow
Remember that these ones provide approx. 35Khz AC output amplitude-modulated by the 50/60Hz mains fundamental so they are almost useless for anything but powering resistive loads. Shall a capacitive load be used the switching circuit may blow
Oh, then I see what you mean... Then the word combination "switch-mode power supply" or just "electronic power supply" should be used, because there are a lot more components inside that box, than just the transformer. 
And like a PC power supply, it can be rewired for your needs, BUT then you may loose all protections (if there are any) and the device can in general become less stable, if it will even work.
When rewiring, you have to keep in mind the maximum output power of that SMPS, so the number of turns has to be approx. 36/12=3 times more, but the diameter of the wire should be 2-3 times smaller.
As I've previously said, I have almost no positive experience in that kind of works (only 3 dead supplies), so the numbers here are very approximate. If I were you, I'd build a failsafe SMPS from scratch or buy an already built one.
And like a PC power supply, it can be rewired for your needs, BUT then you may loose all protections (if there are any) and the device can in general become less stable, if it will even work.
When rewiring, you have to keep in mind the maximum output power of that SMPS, so the number of turns has to be approx. 36/12=3 times more, but the diameter of the wire should be 2-3 times smaller.
As I've previously said, I have almost no positive experience in that kind of works (only 3 dead supplies), so the numbers here are very approximate. If I were you, I'd build a failsafe SMPS from scratch or buy an already built one.
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