Find one used? Or a clone/related product at a fraction of the Hakko cost? Make a local friend? It's a good tool to have in the DIY arsenal.
BK
I have this cheap one that I mentioned before, it does the job: Desoldering Station ZD-915 - exxos Atari Forum
(Set it at 425C for this power hungry board of wide and thick ground plane, use a small diameter nozzle to seal well, let it a bit on the pad to transfer heat across the plated hole, wiggle the gun to push the part's pin around while pulling vacuum)
No worries....
I do all kinds of de-soldering on many different boards using just an ordinary Weller WES51, soldering wick, a spring activated soldier sucker, and normal hand tools.
You just need to take some time and develop some skills.
Get yourself a used PCB from some old broken electronics which you do not care about, and spend a few hours de-soldering different styles of components until you develop a feel for it. After some practice and developing some techniques, I suspect that you find desoldering from the UBiB boards easy.
I do all kinds of de-soldering on many different boards using just an ordinary Weller WES51, soldering wick, a spring activated soldier sucker, and normal hand tools.
You just need to take some time and develop some skills.
Get yourself a used PCB from some old broken electronics which you do not care about, and spend a few hours de-soldering different styles of components until you develop a feel for it. After some practice and developing some techniques, I suspect that you find desoldering from the UBiB boards easy.
thank you salas. i just bought this desoldering station as well but the boards and the components are already ruined (all transistors and most resistors and diodes). I want to stress that I really appreciate all your help and also sharing your knowledge and your time. when i started i didnt even know how to order a single resistor online or how to troubleshoot anything but now when i look at a schematic i have a good idea of what is going on, my soldering has gotten a lot better and also i have been doing some effective troubleshooting. the desoldering of components of these boards were 100% failure though and it ruined not just the boards but the components. ofcourse this is all only my problem not the designer or the vendor's. I only wish that last week instead of advising me to get a soldering station that goers above 390C you should have just told me that a desoldering station is the only remedy. i already had a good 60 watts weller but i bought a new 90 watt weller because i thought going hotter is the solution. but again I think that what you are doing here has been very valuable to me and i appreciate it and please keep up this great work.
am also restoring a vintage yamaha CA-2010 and desoldering on that is a breeze. it is this board. but not that there is something wrong with the board, it is that i didnt know that dealing with this board is different. maybe also the soldering on this board should be different too. i am planning on using the smallest amount of solder if i ever get these boards again and make sure that they dont penetrate all the way to the other side. the pads on this board seem to really absorb the solder and never let it go whioch is whgat you want except when you need to desolder.
in any case, thgis board is different than other boards and like you said i definitely dont know how to do it and im afraid after ruining two boards i still dont think that i have gotten any better at it. i use wick drenched in flux, i put the solder on 825 F degrees and i bought two new solder suckers and new various tips for my iron. on other boards i dont need any of these mostly because just the conical tip on my 25 year old weller is enough, i melt the solder and i pull the component out from the boards on any other amplifer that i have, new or old, vintage or not, that easy. but when on these boards i use the flux drenched wick and the sucker and the components just do not come out. this board literally made me cry after 5 hours, and burning my hand two dozen times and everything ruined. now there is no way to buy these boards until there is another group buy and my dac project is just in the air
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Dadbeh - PM me, I have one precious panel of three boards and parts that I really want to keep but do not need for a while. Tea will get on the case this year so we should be good. Let me know what you need.
So far, I have built one versatile and working dual mono rig that will be good to play with on a few projects. Everything works first time when built as recommended, worth reading through the tread again before committing to optional parts.
I am also looking for the best manual solder pump on the market, many are just rubbish. Any recommendation welcome. The Engineer SS-02 is one of the best so far but still has issues.
As far as de- soldering these boards - don't forget these are 2mm thick and enig finish which kind of creates a chemical bond between pads and solder. Also, the holes are just the right size, if you get me, not much space between the pin and hole. For this it is hard to use a manual solder sucker in time. You ideally need simultaneous heat and suction. Rocking components out and then clean holes by adding a bit more solder can work to flush the hole out from other side.
In my experience do not use crappy lead free solder. Cardas is superb as is Kester in plain old 63/37, worth every penny.... Metcal irons are definitely the one
So far, I have built one versatile and working dual mono rig that will be good to play with on a few projects. Everything works first time when built as recommended, worth reading through the tread again before committing to optional parts.
I am also looking for the best manual solder pump on the market, many are just rubbish. Any recommendation welcome. The Engineer SS-02 is one of the best so far but still has issues.
As far as de- soldering these boards - don't forget these are 2mm thick and enig finish which kind of creates a chemical bond between pads and solder. Also, the holes are just the right size, if you get me, not much space between the pin and hole. For this it is hard to use a manual solder sucker in time. You ideally need simultaneous heat and suction. Rocking components out and then clean holes by adding a bit more solder can work to flush the hole out from other side.
In my experience do not use crappy lead free solder. Cardas is superb as is Kester in plain old 63/37, worth every penny.... Metcal irons are definitely the one
Dadbeh - PM me, I have one precious panel of three boards and parts that I really want to keep but do not need for a while. Tea will get on the case this year so we should be good. Let me know what you need.
So far, I have built one versatile and working dual mono rig that will be good to play with on a few projects. Everything works first time when built as recommended, worth reading through the tread again before committing to optional parts.
I am also looking for the best manual solder pump on the market, many are just rubbish. Any recommendation welcome. The Engineer SS-02 is one of the best so far but still has issues.
As far as de- soldering these boards - don't forget these are 2mm thick and enig finish which kind of creates a chemical bond between pads and solder. Also, the holes are just the right size, if you get me, not much space between the pin and hole. For this it is hard to use a manual solder sucker in time. You ideally need simultaneous heat and suction. Rocking components out and then clean holes by adding a bit more solder can work to flush the hole out from other side.
In my experience do not use crappy lead free solder. Cardas is superb as is Kester in plain old 63/37, worth every penny.... Metcal irons are definitely the one
pm sent. and about leadfree solder. I agree. i had some expensive 3% silver solder that i ran out of after finishing the reflecktor D board and then i bought some high rated lead free from amazon and ut just doesnt flow the same.
I desoldered the diodes and a couple of 327 on mine with a Maplin 50 watt iron.
Try getting some Low Melt DeSolder Wire, Low-Temp SMD De-Soldering Removes Chip Quick & Easy makes life easy.
Try getting some Low Melt DeSolder Wire, Low-Temp SMD De-Soldering Removes Chip Quick & Easy makes life easy.
I am happy to report that having replaced the 5k trimmers with the 10k ones and replaced all transistors on the non working negative supply both of my +- boards are now working as intended and easily set to +- 17v.
Like Dadbeh I found it difficult to remove components without cutting off their heads and unsoldering the legs one at a time.
Hopefully I will have them powering my DCG3 in a couple of weeks.
Thanks again Salas.
Like Dadbeh I found it difficult to remove components without cutting off their heads and unsoldering the legs one at a time.
Hopefully I will have them powering my DCG3 in a couple of weeks.
Thanks again Salas.
i dont know what it is about this board that everyone else has figured out but me. but im gonna study it and practice until i get it. even after cutting the components, the legs and the residue usually dont come out and even in some cases when i get the leg out usually that hole is not usable anymore because the residue inside blocks partially and does not come out. the solder and residue inside the holes dont come out even after i get the iron so hot that i can smell the board burning. a couple times i literally burned a hole in the pvb (which is not easy to do given how tick it is but still the residue didnt come out using the solder sucker. it is a bit of a mystery and is really really bothering me. like i cant get on with my life, i need to learn how to do this.
could someone please make a video?
could someone please make a video?
This is the best manual solder sucker I have found so far... ENGINEER SS-02
YouTube
Lead free really is a nightmare, but try adding some solder to the hole and sucking from other side.. I have sent you some Cardas quad eutectic solder to try, bloody amazing stuff, hopefully you will like it.
What shape tip do you use? I have found the 'Hoof' shape tip quite useful for putting heat to a flat pads quickly. A chisel tip might also be good.
I have now mounted M1 and M2 onto a thick sheet of aluminium which is bolted to the metal casing. With a load connected the temperature is around 55C. Is this OK for normal usage?
I noticed that the voltage slowly ramps up (about 3 seconds) to the operating voltage, this is causing problem to my Project Phono which have delayed relays operating during power on. Can the voltage made to stabilise quicker?
Salas, your Ultrabib has improved the sound quality on my Project Phono RS preamp. Well done and thank you for sharing this. I've just finished putting the Ultrabib in a case and this is the first time I'm using the Ultrabib. I'm listening to my records and can say it has made given vocals a bit more clarity and space and can hear the different background instruments more clearly as separate entities.
you see the hole for C3 is filled with solder? i set the soldering iron to 825 and still no solder comes out. it is like a rock
Dadbeh, try re flowing with the Cardas when you get it, it won't mix too well with the lead free but might be able to wet the existing solder. Clean the boards with iso and soap/water before trying again.
Another experiment if you really want to try is to bang the boards into a 200 degree oven to warm up for a few minutes, all the copper ground plane is sinking the heat so get them nice and hot.
Another experiment if you really want to try is to bang the boards into a 200 degree oven to warm up for a few minutes, all the copper ground plane is sinking the heat so get them nice and hot.
So the voltage on your Bib stabilise instantly upon switch on?
Mine also ramps down slowly too if no load is connected but drops pretty quickly with a load (i.e. my preamp) connected.
FYI, I'm using alternative mosfets IRF9610 / IRF610, but surely this should not be the cause.