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Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
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Old 10th August 2018, 10:37 AM   #401
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
Quote:
Originally Posted by vega65 View Post
Attached a simplified Schematic of an amplifier with C3M and 13e1se.
I replaced the cathode resistor/bypass cap of 13e1 with the 1.3 BIB.
One monoblock is running fine the first 15 minutes or so, wi music, then the 13e1 starts to oscillate. wiring between reg and cathode of 13e1 is ca 10 cm.
The other amp similar, but running without this issue.
13e1 160ma, 24v at cathode. Input to 1-3 reg is 22v Ac. R1 2,4 ohm
Suggestions ?
The tubes may differ in something between the monos so swap them first and if it happens again change the Ubib's C3 cap with one of bit lower ESR in the troublesome channel and/or increase the wiring length a bit I would guess
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Old 10th August 2018, 01:28 PM   #402
vega65 is offline vega65  Norway
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Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
Quote:
Originally Posted by Salas View Post
The tubes may differ in something between the monos so swap them first and if it happens again change the Ubib's C3 cap with one of bit lower ESR in the troublesome channel and/or increase the wiring length a bit I would guess


Thanks : Spot on. Oscillation followed the tube. I have been playing with 13e1's about ten years, so I should have known...
It's a temperamental lady. Easy to get hot



The c3's are muse's from Teabags kit. Shall look after lower ESR's and
report ( guess it will take a while...)
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Old 10th August 2018, 02:10 PM   #403
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
33uF/50V ES has lower 100kHz ESR than same KZ on my meter and Pana FC 100uF/50V is in the middle. But look about higher value grid stopper to the temperamental one first or play with some physical arrangement like the cabling length and dressing or the bias point because some parasitic that changes with temperature seems to set it off due to mechanical tolerances maybe. Is it the CV type or the normal type British tube? Rare beasts those.
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Old 10th August 2018, 02:30 PM   #404
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
P.S. Using a shunt reg instead of cathode resistor//cap certainly changes the parameters of the tubes circuit. Since only one of the two valves finds trouble after 15 minutes of heat either try a third one if you got or tweak the circuit values a bit before tweaking the shunt seems like a logical procedure.
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Old 10th August 2018, 03:25 PM   #405
Marra is offline Marra  United Kingdom
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Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
I have just powered up my two Ultra-bibs of which two positive and one negative are ok; settable to +-15v with a 15vac transformer. The second negative supply can be set to -15v but reads 1.12v across R1 whereas the others all show 0.565v give or take a fraction. Am I ok to use a transformer with 22v secondaries to achieve the 17v needed for the DCG3.

Advice on what to check much appreciated. Thanks.

Last edited by Marra; 10th August 2018 at 03:27 PM. Reason: Sentence added
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Old 10th August 2018, 03:33 PM   #406
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
Replace Q1 if its broken or wrong type (must be NPN in the negative i.e. 337-40). Look close on the transistors, 327 and 337 tiny prints can fool the eye.
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Old 10th August 2018, 03:36 PM   #407
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
Also verify the value of R4 and mV across R4 proving about passing 2mA or so. If J4 is broken shorted and passes many mA then Q1 would be affected. What you measure across R1 is Q1's Vbe.
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Old 10th August 2018, 03:43 PM   #408
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marra View Post
Am I ok to use a transformer with 22v secondaries to achieve the 17v needed for the DCG3.
Apart from extra heat on M1s, 22VAC is good for M1s PSRR because more voltage drop vin-vout across them linearizes their parasitic capacitance. They are characterized for pF at 25V VDS for that reason. But heat will bite you if you haven't got the sinking when CC is also high. 18VAC is middle of the road. It would work for 17V output even on 15VAC since it takes little to drop to hang on there in reality, (CCS mA sagging starts at Vin-Vout <1.7V for ~200mA CC settings. At 600mA CC it starts at Vin-Vout <2.5V), but the CCS quality will be lower and not enough space will be left for mains play either. 5V drop vin-vout good 10V nice 20V very nice. Heat on M1 good, bad, super bad. You win some you lose some.
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Old 10th August 2018, 03:47 PM   #409
Marra is offline Marra  United Kingdom
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Thanks Salas I will check things out.
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Old 10th August 2018, 11:22 PM   #410
Dadbeh is offline Dadbeh  United States
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so here is the thing:
Click the image to open in full size.

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the 0.33 ohm and R2 in the negative rail smoked white the second that I plugged them in.

1 - I randomly selected which pair of blue/green wire go from the tran to the positive and negative, is there an order? the trans has two pairs of outputs. each has green blue wires. i connceted one pair to positive and one pair to negative randomly. AS-1215 - 100VA 15V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp

2 - there was no load connected to them when plugged in. i forgot

3 - the transistors were connected to the same heat sink with no mica insulation. so i guess they were electrically connected. im a doofus.

now i am using a separate heatsink for each rail so that each board is isolated (wooden base and nylon standoffs). i guess im oredring some resistors and trying again. fml

Last edited by Dadbeh; 10th August 2018 at 11:27 PM.
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