I have to admit this does not make sense to me.
Have you built your MBT yet?
Do you have, or can borrow, a 230:115Vac transformer?
Yes, but --- you have given NO CLUE what "USA cassette deck" this is. No brand, no model number, and no copies of whatever images and instructions you have.
Even knowing the BRAND might be helpful. Maybe someone has dealt with a lot of Brand X and knows their tapping-system.
With _NO_ real information, you have a fair chance of wiring two 120V windings (if that is what they are) out-of-phase, which will tend to burn-up your house (hopefully blow the circuit fuse before the line-cord starts to burn).
Even once we get the voltage, there is a further trouble-spot. Many cassette decks used DC or servo motors which do not care what the line frequency is. But a very few used AC motors which run at Line Frequency. A 60Hz motor on 50Hz power will run at 50/60 or 83% speed, several semi-tones flat, a 3 minute song takes 3:36 to finish. There is no simple fix for this. (You can bush the pulley and other tricks, but not easy to get right.)
arrived yesterday.
Hi Kodabmx,
the stepdown arrived yesterday on the slow boat from china.
I plugged it in after twisting the inlet pins very carefully to fit the Australian angled slots.
It works fine, its expecting 60Hz whereas we are running 50Hz. it's expecting 220-240v whereas we have 250v at the outlet according to my power consumption adapter/checker.
display on cassette is medium low brightness which makes some parts of the display hard to read but only slightly.
I guess I can continue like this or use it to measure the secondary taps all 8 of them for future adaption.
Hi Kodabmx,
the stepdown arrived yesterday on the slow boat from china.
I plugged it in after twisting the inlet pins very carefully to fit the Australian angled slots.
It works fine, its expecting 60Hz whereas we are running 50Hz. it's expecting 220-240v whereas we have 250v at the outlet according to my power consumption adapter/checker.
display on cassette is medium low brightness which makes some parts of the display hard to read but only slightly.
I guess I can continue like this or use it to measure the secondary taps all 8 of them for future adaption.
I appreciate you feel I've left details out, but to me this was a straight 110 to 240 volt conversion. The USA one is a CT-W703RS.
This pioneer model uses one motor for both the capstans and the fast forward/rewind. it has no AC servo motors that I can see but I could be wrong.
no.. wait I found the entry in the specs, they're DC servo motors so its looking good on that score
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So these are from the 706.
which I'm willing to bet uses the same power supply.
So now we can all see they came in three versions.
120vac only.
220-240vac only.
or,
110-240vac multi tapped.
Pretty obvious now that if yours did not come with the multi voltage switch on the back panel.
Then your SOL.
You should've posted either the manual you paid for or at the least a screen shot (like these).
which I'm willing to bet uses the same power supply.
So now we can all see they came in three versions.
120vac only.
220-240vac only.
or,
110-240vac multi tapped.
Pretty obvious now that if yours did not come with the multi voltage switch on the back panel.
Then your SOL.
You should've posted either the manual you paid for or at the least a screen shot (like these).
Attachments
OnC if i saw a switch to select 120 or 240v then I'd not have asked this question as it would have an obvious answer and you guys are better than that i presume.
I dont know if your ref to 706 is different to the w703rs but all i know is that the manual tells me to change primary terminals. I dont seem to have the same numbers as it says and i havent managed to make sense of it.
I hope the picture helps you guys.
Thx for perservering this far.
I dont know if your ref to 706 is different to the w703rs but all i know is that the manual tells me to change primary terminals. I dont seem to have the same numbers as it says and i havent managed to make sense of it.
I hope the picture helps you guys.
Thx for perservering this far.
Im unsure as i dont have a measure but its plastic outer is warm like cosy but not hot like a slight sting if that helps.
Curiously i have another cassette deck which indicates 50/60hz on its back panel suggesting for that pioneer cassette changer unit the frequency of the mains line doesnt matter.
Curiously i have another cassette deck which indicates 50/60hz on its back panel suggesting for that pioneer cassette changer unit the frequency of the mains line doesnt matter.
A couple of comments:
I suspect that the thermal fuse is between pins 5 and 6, and you have a single 120V winding between pins 3 and 6, so rewiring for 240V is not possible.
If you are are using that stepdown from the ebay link, I highly doubt that has a transformmer inside, it is just too small. It's likely solid state and clipping the waveform down, which may cause audible artifacts on an audio device like yours. I would fully check it out to make sure it is working properly.
I suspect that the thermal fuse is between pins 5 and 6, and you have a single 120V winding between pins 3 and 6, so rewiring for 240V is not possible.
If you are are using that stepdown from the ebay link, I highly doubt that has a transformmer inside, it is just too small. It's likely solid state and clipping the waveform down, which may cause audible artifacts on an audio device like yours. I would fully check it out to make sure it is working properly.
For the last time.
POST
THE
SCHEMATIC
Or at the least screen shots of the relevant sections.
Thanks for your comments.
I need an oscilloscope for that.
Yes I figured altering the primary for 240 wasnt possible but the manual says otherwise so i threw it out there to you guys.
The clipping might explain the lower than fully bright display. No audible effects on player and speed appears good but could well be down a semitone. Hard to tell.
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