This is my first post here, and I am quite new with audio circuits. Please be gentle...
(Narrative - feel free to skip)
(Question here)
Assuming the nomenclature is close the HYS1A200-CS would be a 200W power supply. Does anyone have any recommendations for a replacement?
Thanks!
(Narrative - feel free to skip)
I have a broken Mirage MM6 sub woofer. It just gave out one day while watching a movie. I replaced it with a Klipsch, but decided to keep the Mirage to repair one day. One day is here. I opened up the box and found the power supply had at least one burnt cap (ceramic disc). I couldn't see the full cap as it was completely covered in shmoo. The entire board was covered in a hard immobilizer and a few strategic locations had a softer substance. I tried to dig out the burnt cap but couldn't free it without destroying it. I tried a replacement cap at a value estimated from the others on the board and size. No big surprise but it didn't work. I tried getting schematics to no avail. Mirage has been sold and the new owners didn't have it or even know what type of amp it used. I began scraping away shmoo and learned that the manufacturer was Foshan Hanyi. Went to their website and learned that they didn't have any power supply that looked like what I had. I scavenged the board for any useful components and eventually uncovered a model number. HYS1A200-CS. I tried contacting the company in China but got no responses. If interested (::hanny computer device::)
(Question here)
Assuming the nomenclature is close the HYS1A200-CS would be a 200W power supply. Does anyone have any recommendations for a replacement?
Thanks!
> Somebody is telling fibs.
I'm shocked.
But maybe they have just broken all Laws Of Physics. They get the "800" Watts with just 100-120V 2.0 Amps (200VA) pulled from the wall. 400% efficiency!!
Being as the one driver is near as big as the box, and there are two similar drone-cones in the box, the driver may be built a lot like a shaker-motor. (I doubt it, but it could). Then 50W thermal and 100-150W of music is not impossible. Will it be reliable? Well, it's broke now and the company is effectively gone- not your father's Oldsmobile. (Oh, wait, Olds is gone now too.)
I'm shocked.
But maybe they have just broken all Laws Of Physics. They get the "800" Watts with just 100-120V 2.0 Amps (200VA) pulled from the wall. 400% efficiency!!
Being as the one driver is near as big as the box, and there are two similar drone-cones in the box, the driver may be built a lot like a shaker-motor. (I doubt it, but it could). Then 50W thermal and 100-150W of music is not impossible. Will it be reliable? Well, it's broke now and the company is effectively gone- not your father's Oldsmobile. (Oh, wait, Olds is gone now too.)
Attachments
I don't doubt the company stretched the truth on the wattage. I just reported what was on the website.
I measured the impedance at around 7.4 Ohms. The reading wouldn't really stabilize anywhere. I saw as low as 7 and as high as 7.9. It is my understanding that the reading will always be less than the actual impedance, so I would guess 8 Ohms.
I measured the impedance at around 7.4 Ohms. The reading wouldn't really stabilize anywhere. I saw as low as 7 and as high as 7.9. It is my understanding that the reading will always be less than the actual impedance, so I would guess 8 Ohms.
That 7r to 8r tells us it's an 8ohms driver, or a little bit higher. They could have purchased a special 10ohms, or 12ohms, driver to suit their build.
800W into 8ohms requires an output of 113Vpk.
That would need supply rails around ±130Vdc
What does the speaker driver say for power rating?
What is the voltage rating on the electrolytic capacitors?
800W into 8ohms requires an output of 113Vpk.
That would need supply rails around ±130Vdc
What does the speaker driver say for power rating?
What is the voltage rating on the electrolytic capacitors?
Ok, so we have a 50V cap and a 25V cap, can't tell how the 25V cap is connected - maybe in series to give 75V that is then fed to the amp pcb with a 63V cap? I would say 48V to 50+, but TL494 maximum Vcc is 40V so that has to be generated from somewhere...
BTW are we talking about replacing the PSU or the entire amp? If latter, just get an amp.
BTW are we talking about replacing the PSU or the entire amp? If latter, just get an amp.
I see a red circled electro cap with no info. I see a 63V electro lying on it's side.
We need more electro voltage ratings at the output side.
The 200V rated cap is on the mains side, where 110/120Vac mains power needs a 200Vdc rating and 220/240Vac needs a series pair of 200Vdc rated caps.
But what is in the amplifier? The supply rail caps in there potentially tell us the most.
What is the power rating written on the speaker driver? You have told us enough for the impedance rating.
We need more electro voltage ratings at the output side.
The 200V rated cap is on the mains side, where 110/120Vac mains power needs a 200Vdc rating and 220/240Vac needs a series pair of 200Vdc rated caps.
But what is in the amplifier? The supply rail caps in there potentially tell us the most.
What is the power rating written on the speaker driver? You have told us enough for the impedance rating.
I could not find any power rating on the speaker itself. I will pull it out and see if I can see anything I missed earlier.
I don't see anything circled that isn't labeled. The label on the far right doesn't blend into the background though, didn't notice that until after I uploaded it. I see a third cap behind the other two blue ones.
The 63V cap isn't on the power supply, I was focusing on that board as I am fairly certain the problem is there. I will see what more information I can get on those boards when I get home.
I don't see anything circled that isn't labeled. The label on the far right doesn't blend into the background though, didn't notice that until after I uploaded it. I see a third cap behind the other two blue ones.
The 63V cap isn't on the power supply, I was focusing on that board as I am fairly certain the problem is there. I will see what more information I can get on those boards when I get home.
You really have to remove the board and look at the trace underneath. Right now I believe the PSU should have two output voltages - usually the case for speakers since the preamp portion cannot handle the high voltage needed for the main amp. Check whether the 25V and the 50V caps are connected together.
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All three of the blue caps in the lower right corner seem to be tied together and then to the output terminal. (100uf 50v, 100uf 25v, and 220uf 25v)
I pulled the speaker and could not find anything that was obvious to me as a power rating.
I made a quick and dirty flash animation that will show the images I have for the components, silk screen, and traces. You can click on the image and move through the layers to see the corresponding points. I couldn't get all of the images to line up correctly, so it is not as accurate as it could be.
Flash Movie (It is safe I promise; however, it is big so it may take a while to load; if blank refresh).
I pulled the speaker and could not find anything that was obvious to me as a power rating.
I made a quick and dirty flash animation that will show the images I have for the components, silk screen, and traces. You can click on the image and move through the layers to see the corresponding points. I couldn't get all of the images to line up correctly, so it is not as accurate as it could be.
Flash Movie (It is safe I promise; however, it is big so it may take a while to load; if blank refresh).
I have abandoned using the power supply to power the existing amp circuit and will just use a new one. I have no way of knowing that it is even still functional.
I picked up a couple of TDA7293 circuits and will play with them. I have also acquired a toroid transformer 300VA 35/15V and one of this site's universal power supply circuit boards. I have just about finished my mouser order but I am still working on the snubber values. Right now my head is still spinning after reading the article on the snubber calculations. When it stops I will post back with my findings and the rest of the components. Thanks for the help so far.
I picked up a couple of TDA7293 circuits and will play with them. I have also acquired a toroid transformer 300VA 35/15V and one of this site's universal power supply circuit boards. I have just about finished my mouser order but I am still working on the snubber values. Right now my head is still spinning after reading the article on the snubber calculations. When it stops I will post back with my findings and the rest of the components. Thanks for the help so far.
Wow... Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I am trying to fix my Energy ESW-M6 sub and typed in the part number on the power supply board and this came up. Followed the link to the Mirage website and the Mirage looks just like my Energy..The only thing I have found so far is it could be a capacitor problem. Any luck here>
Thanks
Thanks
Thread has been dormant for some time. I'm trying to replace the entire main board in my ESW-M6 subwoofer. It simply stopped working. Heard a pop when I turned it on after being off for a few minutes. I probably didn't let it cool down enough.
A longtime subwoofer repair shop told me it wasn't worth paying to repair through them and I should replace it. That's when I decided to take it apart.
I've pulled the main board off the back of the speaker and it appears that one connector from the board goes into the main speaker array. If I can get and install a new main board, I believe I can get it operating again.
Anyone know where a main board can be purchased? I don't have the skills to troubleshoot the main board other than to note the fuse seems intact and appears not to be blown.
A longtime subwoofer repair shop told me it wasn't worth paying to repair through them and I should replace it. That's when I decided to take it apart.
I've pulled the main board off the back of the speaker and it appears that one connector from the board goes into the main speaker array. If I can get and install a new main board, I believe I can get it operating again.
Anyone know where a main board can be purchased? I don't have the skills to troubleshoot the main board other than to note the fuse seems intact and appears not to be blown.
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