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Old 9th April 2016, 03:08 AM   #1
Abdiel is offline Abdiel  Croatia
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Default Supply for amps - help with pcb

Hi all!

In the past few months I've been working on a large DIY project consisting of amps, pre-amps, volume and tone controls, etc...
If all goes well, I'll put some photos of finished product within few months.

I've created schematics and PCBs for supplies, could somebody please check them and write if something is wrong or there is a better way of doing something there?
Size of the PCB can't be changed(enclosure limitations).

Amplifier PSU schematic/PCB:
https://cdn.pbrd.co/images/2W3FvKM.png
https://cdn.pbrd.co/images/2Wh1d8R.png
Note: using 2 diode bridges, 35A which are not on the schematic.
Is this the right way of connecting multiple caps with different values?

Pre-amplifier PSU schematic/PCB:
https://cdn.pbrd.co/images/2WnAp4e.png
https://cdn.pbrd.co/images/2WpOUXw.png

Any help is appreciated!
(I also offer a beer for any help from Croatian speaking members!)
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Old 9th April 2016, 10:51 AM   #2
AndrewT is online now AndrewT  Scotland
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attach your pics.
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Old 9th April 2016, 10:53 AM   #3
AndrewT is online now AndrewT  Scotland
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Generally I don't use a PSU PCB.
I prefer to hardwire using twisted pairs everywhere.
One cannot achieve the equivalent interference attenuation using untwisted pairs, or big loop areas, that often get incorporated in a PCB.
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Old 9th April 2016, 04:01 PM   #4
Abdiel is offline Abdiel  Croatia
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Pictures are attached.
Can't you see them?

Unfortunately I can't hardwire it, no space for it since I'm limited with big toroid and 2 large heatsinks.

Just need somebody to confirm I'm not doing something very wrong without even realizing it.

Thnx
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Old 9th April 2016, 06:44 PM   #5
AndrewT is online now AndrewT  Scotland
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Quote:
Pictures are attached.
You don't have any pics attached.
You have used a remote server
Quote:
Can't you see them?
No, I can only see links to https.
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Old 9th April 2016, 07:01 PM   #6
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When designing a PS you should create ground reference point. This is the point that interconnects all grounds from different boards. See the attached pictures for a simple example.

Capture.JPG

Capture1.JPG

Capture2.JPG
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Old 9th April 2016, 08:01 PM   #7
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Hi Abdiel,

Even though you provide no details regarding the amp and the pre-amp you are going to power with your PSUs, I see unnecessary waste of PCB area in your designs. Could you explain why did you use 10000||10000||6800||6800||4700||4700 uF combination for the amp PSU instead of paralleling four 10000 uF caps which would be more compact? Have you actually looked at the existing designs, e.g universal PSU from diyaudio store? Also C||RC snubber after the capacitor bank should probably be put before the rectifier according to Mark Johnson. On the pre-amp PSU I would turn the regs parallel to the board's edge and make provision for the heatsinks. Also what is the purpose of D4 and D5 on the pre-amp PSU? You could look on ebay which is full of LM317/LM337 PSU PCBs... even if just for an inspiration.

Just my two cents...
Oleg
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Old 9th April 2016, 08:39 PM   #8
Abdiel is offline Abdiel  Croatia
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I've linked to another web source.
You have to click the link to see the image.
Same on the 1st post.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...PS/pre_sch.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...PS/pre_pcb.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...PS/amp_sch.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...PS/amp_pcb.png
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Old 9th April 2016, 08:56 PM   #9
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Abdiel, it is a reasonable request when members ask you to use our servers to host schematics and artwork. This prevents them from disappearing and rendering the thread meaningless in the future. Someone may find your your efforts informative in the future.

They are attached.
Attached Images
File Type: png pre_sch.png (88.9 KB, 311 views)
File Type: png pre_pcb.png (167.3 KB, 311 views)
File Type: png amp_sch.png (90.3 KB, 306 views)
File Type: png amp_pcb.png (229.0 KB, 311 views)
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Old 9th April 2016, 09:06 PM   #10
Abdiel is offline Abdiel  Croatia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyBerg View Post
When designing a PS you should create ground reference point. This is the point that interconnects all grounds from different boards. See the attached pictures for a simple example.
I do have it. Look closely.

Quote:
Hi Abdiel,
Even though you provide no details regarding the amp and the pre-amp you are going to power with your PSUs, I see unnecessary waste of PCB area in your designs.
2 MOSFET amps from ESP, P101. Hi powered versions. Transformer is 600VA so I could get above 150W on each amp.
Waste of PCB can't be avoided in my case so just bear with me.

Quote:
Could you explain why did you use 10000||10000||6800||6800||4700||4700 uF combination for the amp PSU instead of paralleling four 10000 uF caps which would be more compact?
The idea was to use larger and smaller caps since smaller ones charge and discharge quicker than the large ones.
Unfortunately I bought all the caps before I realized I will have to make this kind of messy PCB for it. I still can use 8x10000 caps but then smaller ones will be left unused(something I would like to avoid).

Quote:
Have you actually looked at the existing designs, e.g universal PSU from diyaudio store?
Sure I did. Along with numerous others.

Quote:
Also C||RC snubber after the capacitor bank should probably be put before the rectifier according to Mark Johnson.
Rectifier bridges have their own snubbers. According to Texas Instruments "AN-1849 An Audio Amplifier Power Supply Design" C||RC snubbers are welcomed after big capacitor banks due caps inductance.

Quote:
On the pre-amp PSU I would turn the regs parallel to the board's edge and make provision for the heatsinks.
Putting regulators on board edges is a no go for this PCB, but I will make some space for the heatsinks. Thnx!

Quote:
Also what is the purpose of D4 and D5 on the pre-amp PSU? You could look on ebay which is full of LM317/LM337 PSU PCBs... even if just for an inspiration.
Just my two cents...
Oleg
ESP (sound westhost...) site could probably tell you more, I've read it months ago and if I remember it correctly D4 and D5 are for some kind inductance... Well, I can remove them easily.
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