Krell Kav 300cd fault

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Hi Mooly I've checked with the lamp and it's at full brightness. So it looks like it's definitely the Transformer.
If I end up going down the replacement of the transformer with two transformers I take it you would have 18v and 5v on one and the 30v supply on the other. But what ampage would you use?
 
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Tricky. Looking at the circuit and it looks as though you could use a single 12 volt AC winding for the 5 and 7 volt rails. 12 volts AC would give around 16 to 18 volts DC. Current, probably a couple of amps so in the region of 30va at a guess.

The -/+18 volt rails would probably need an 18-0-18 tranny which would give around -/+ 26 volts DC. Current, probably looking at a 15 to 20VA rating.

The negative display rail would need a separate low current supply, say 28 volt AC at just a couple of VA rating.

So it gets a bit messy. They are just quick approximations. You can gauge better by looking at the secondary wire thickness to see which were the high current windings. Also the heatsink size of the individual regulators will give a clue as to what they need to handle.
 
I would go in the direction of an external enclosure, let's call it separate power supply to be fancy ;) that would contain the 3 power transformers you need to replace the custom one.

Then I'll run an cable with or without connector to the CD player.

Could cost less and 100£ and you'll be able to salvage the player.

Certainly cheaper than the original part.
 
Tricky. Looking at the circuit and it looks as though you could use a single 12 volt AC winding for the 5 and 7 volt rails. 12 volts AC would give around 16 to 18 volts DC. Current, probably a couple of amps so in the region of 30va at a guess.

The -/+18 volt rails would probably need an 18-0-18 tranny which would give around -/+ 26 volts DC. Current, probably looking at a 15 to 20VA rating.

The negative display rail would need a separate low current supply, say 28 volt AC at just a couple of VA rating.

So it gets a bit messy. They are just quick approximations. You can gauge better by looking at the secondary wire thickness to see which were the high current windings. Also the heatsink size of the individual regulators will give a clue as to what they need to handle.

So I could try the above and put these in a separate box
 
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That was the idea but don't rush off and order anything without giving it more thought. We would need to double check the calculations and make sure you understand that even then, its a bit of an unknown. Things like that display winding that had a tapping if I remember correctly.
 
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Well its certainly not something to undertake lightly, as I mentioned it could be tricky and its 'messy' with three transformers. That said it is undoubtable do-able... you just have to be prepared to iron out problems along the way PLUS we don't for sure that the player itself is OK anyway. The reasons why the original failed and so on.
 
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