Hey guys,
I'm in the market for an upgrade of the power cord on my system, as well as a new rectifier.
Currently I got an APC line R rectifier, which i use because the power in China is plain dirty and unstable. I use stock power cos so anything should be better than what i have now.
I was thinking of a Sine 30 conditioner, but i got no idea what to use for power cord.
My setup comprises:
Opera Consonance Reference 5.5 my integrated tube amp
Opera Consonance Reference 7 media player
Opera Consonance Droplet LP5.0 my turntable
Opera Consonance PM2mk2 phono preamp.
Sony 555es sacd player.
As for my budget, I'm flexible, but I was thinking 250-350 us $ per cable. I realise different equipment can benefit from different power cables (which probably means the price can be different too).
As for my taste in music, i like warm airy sound but want to preserve details in the music and a tight bass tone.
Any suggestions?
I'm in the market for an upgrade of the power cord on my system, as well as a new rectifier.
Currently I got an APC line R rectifier, which i use because the power in China is plain dirty and unstable. I use stock power cos so anything should be better than what i have now.
I was thinking of a Sine 30 conditioner, but i got no idea what to use for power cord.
My setup comprises:
Opera Consonance Reference 5.5 my integrated tube amp
Opera Consonance Reference 7 media player
Opera Consonance Droplet LP5.0 my turntable
Opera Consonance PM2mk2 phono preamp.
Sony 555es sacd player.
As for my budget, I'm flexible, but I was thinking 250-350 us $ per cable. I realise different equipment can benefit from different power cables (which probably means the price can be different too).
As for my taste in music, i like warm airy sound but want to preserve details in the music and a tight bass tone.
Any suggestions?
Assuming that the power cord is routed away from low-level signal cables, the signal cables are properly shielded and have appropriate levels and termination impedances, the amp is enclosed and shielded, and the power cord is of sufficient guage for the current demand, and the plug ends are clean, the only improvement over a stock power cord is perhaps some shielding, which probably isn't very effective anyway. With a decent power conditioner I can't hear any difference between a $25 cord and a $1000 power cord, because things like quality of the copper and insulation don't really matter unless you abuse the cord. This is a DIY site. Make your own. You can get really great male plugs and an IEC connector for the chassis end on ebay, add some shield braid, some nylon sleeve, some 10-guage 3-conductor wire, and make your own. I don't know what power jacks you have there, so I can't be more specific. But...save your money and spend it on speakers or a second power amp for subs perhaps. Sorry if that's not what you wanted to hear, but be skeptical and careful whose advice you take. Please don't spend $1750 USD on 5 overpriced power cords, unless your purposes have nothing to do with fidelity.
Belden 19364 Audio-Grade Cable just £6.95 meter at Belden 19364 Mains Cable per metre, for DIY
!!!!!!!
with an "Active Earth Screen".
Where do you suggest we connect that Screen?
Who gave Belden that rating?
Themselves?
Separating the mains power feed from the signal wiring does not seem to affect any of my audio gear.
I have tested unshielded twisted pair by placing it parallel and across and wound in coils next to and laid on top of powered mains cables (and on exposed transformers) and cannot detect any change in the Output of the power amplifier, during these tests.
I guess the reason that the Mains cable does not affect the signal cable is twofold.
a.) the mains cable wires are close coupled with a very gentle twist.
b.) the signal wires are close coupled and generously twisted.
These two interference reducing measures seem to remove interference effect simply due to attenuation of the interference.
It works for me.
Have any of you tested the effectiveness of twisted pairs?
I have measured a difference between shielded and unshielded cable using RMAA. Were talking about removing a small 50hz bump in the noise floor down at ~-100-120db so its not going to be audible with speakers or headphones, but there is a difference.
Having said that i make all my own cables using Belden as its just nice cable, and worth the £10 to me. As for spending $2-300 on a cable, you have lost me there.
Having said that i make all my own cables using Belden as its just nice cable, and worth the £10 to me. As for spending $2-300 on a cable, you have lost me there.
@aardvarkash10 & JMFahey: sorry, don't get your point. Not sure you are trying to be comical, sarcastic, or envious... Considering we are all here share the same passion, I don't see a reason for providing such pointless comments. Constructive feedback is more welcome.
@Cyclecamper: Actually, I think your advice is very interesting, and for sure I welcome it! In fact, thinking about it, it's probably possible to build your own power cords with selective components probably at a fraction of the price for a pre build branded cord. I'll look into that, thanks matey!
@Cyclecamper: Actually, I think your advice is very interesting, and for sure I welcome it! In fact, thinking about it, it's probably possible to build your own power cords with selective components probably at a fraction of the price for a pre build branded cord. I'll look into that, thanks matey!
I agree with everything that Andrew has stated above, especially his experience with Twisted Pair Wirering...excellent advice!
I personally like Belden Cable because of it's availability and excellent quality. One thing you may want to know is that American Copper wire is available in two standard Purity Levels 99.95% and 99.99% and all of it is Oxygen Free (if you want copper with an Oxygen Content, it would have to be custom made for you...at least in the United States!) A couple of years ago Chinese Copper wire was usually somewhere in the 80 percent range of purity. High purity copper (as used in weapon systems, etc.) is purchased from the USA, or other suppliers.
Best Regards,
TerryO
Yes, I'd anticipated that.
I'll type slowly and clearly then.
If you want some bling for your audio system that, at best, won't degrade the sound of the system, power cabling is as good a place as any to dispose of your spare cash.
If you expect specific, audible and measurable differences in the sound quality from changing the cabling that supplies your various nice but largely not jealousy-inducing adio gear, you would be better off self-medicating.
Advice given with love and in the spirit of constructive criticism.
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As he's got that APC Line-R conditioner, would that cause some HF rubbish on the mains?
Line-R ? Voltage Regulator, Stabilizer | APC
If so, I'd consider to use dedicated mains filters as mentioned earlier.
http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Mains_Filters/Mains_Filters.html
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Had a colleague who was "sequestered" to Shanghai a couple of years back.
He returned with stories of 5kw Max allowable consumption per apartment (his was a Newly built one too) And Brown outs were everyday events.
Even household appliances and an electric stove Do Not coexist. A real problem when more than one apartment per floor tries it.
I 'd seriously consider using Battery power, if trying to commit Audio in that environment
He returned with stories of 5kw Max allowable consumption per apartment (his was a Newly built one too) And Brown outs were everyday events.
Even household appliances and an electric stove Do Not coexist. A real problem when more than one apartment per floor tries it.
I 'd seriously consider using Battery power, if trying to commit Audio in that environment
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This post tells me everything I need to know about why not to buy audiophile power cords. Mind you, I like better mechanical quality of the more expensive connectors.
Spend that money on:
Installing separate circuits for power amps, especially if you have mono blocks...
Your running 220-240V, Thats a big advantage.. I run 240V when possible for power amps.. Your lucky..
Go and buy 12 gauge cord for power amps and 16gauge for all other gear and make nice cords with nice quality connectors.. Use Hospital grade Receptacles because they are tight..
Save some money for good sounding Interconnects and speaker wire..
The difference you are hearing in power cords is so small that it is likely imagined..
The difference you are hearing with Interconnects and speaker wire is so large that it can't be denied..
Lastly, if you feel you need much more improvement from your system, wires won't fix this.. A component change or new system might..
Installing separate circuits for power amps, especially if you have mono blocks...
Your running 220-240V, Thats a big advantage.. I run 240V when possible for power amps.. Your lucky..
Go and buy 12 gauge cord for power amps and 16gauge for all other gear and make nice cords with nice quality connectors.. Use Hospital grade Receptacles because they are tight..
Save some money for good sounding Interconnects and speaker wire..
The difference you are hearing in power cords is so small that it is likely imagined..
The difference you are hearing with Interconnects and speaker wire is so large that it can't be denied..
Lastly, if you feel you need much more improvement from your system, wires won't fix this.. A component change or new system might..
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