Hello. I am just starting to research diy audio projects and I am confused about powering different components of varying voltages. I would like to build a unit that contains a class d amp and headphone amp running 24 volts along with a Bluetooth receiver that runs on 12. I'm not very knowledgeable about electrical power and would really appreciate some help.
My idea: use a 24 vdc power supply and connect a buck converter to power the 12v component.
Questions: The buck converter and bt receiver only have two terminals vcc and ground. How should I wire this to the power supply? Am I completely off in this approach?
Any help is much appreciated. Thx!
My idea: use a 24 vdc power supply and connect a buck converter to power the 12v component.
Questions: The buck converter and bt receiver only have two terminals vcc and ground. How should I wire this to the power supply? Am I completely off in this approach?
Any help is much appreciated. Thx!
I'm no power supply expert but you should be able to get a transformer with 2 secondarys.
Transformers have a primary (input) which will be 115v for mains power in the US. The secondarys (output) can be any voltage you want. Transformers can have multiple primarys and secondarys depending on its purpose.
There's probably better/easier ways to skin the cat but you will have to wait for someone more knowledgeable.
Transformers have a primary (input) which will be 115v for mains power in the US. The secondarys (output) can be any voltage you want. Transformers can have multiple primarys and secondarys depending on its purpose.
There's probably better/easier ways to skin the cat but you will have to wait for someone more knowledgeable.
Forgot to mention that you will need some kind of rectifier to turn the AC mains into the DC you require.
If the Bluetooth module is sensitive to variations in power you may want a regulator circuit.
If you have a look in the DIY audio store and in some of the threads (forum member Salas springs to mind) here you will find circuits that rectify and regulate combined. Some also have soft start capabilities.
like I said, I'm also new so I may be way off with my suggestion.
If the Bluetooth module is sensitive to variations in power you may want a regulator circuit.
If you have a look in the DIY audio store and in some of the threads (forum member Salas springs to mind) here you will find circuits that rectify and regulate combined. Some also have soft start capabilities.
like I said, I'm also new so I may be way off with my suggestion.
If its just the Bluetooth needing 12 volts then I would advise a simple and reliable linear reg such as a 7812. The Bluetooth unit I assume draws very little current.
I know that's not what you are asking but it seems a logical solution tbh.
Connections to you buck convertor... we would have to see the details of it to advise.
I know that's not what you are asking but it seems a logical solution tbh.
Connections to you buck convertor... we would have to see the details of it to advise.
I guess I should clarify what I'm looking at. For a power supply something like the meanwell sp-320-24 or a similar prebuilt psu. It only has a 24v output. Can anyone point me to a psu that outputs 12 and 24v in one supply? I'm not really up for building my own.
The bt unit is 12v 1a. The headphone amp is 8-24v .5a. The main amp is 24v 6a.
The bt unit is 12v 1a. The headphone amp is 8-24v .5a. The main amp is 24v 6a.
I know I'm still not really answering your question but adding a 12 volt regulator to give 12 volts from the 24 is really easy. All you need is three components, a generic (available anywhere) 7812 device and two capacitors (values not critical). Anything from 15 to 30 volts in and a stable 12 volts out. Total cost £$1.00
(If you are not sure on wiring or what the parts actually are then just ask 🙂)
(If you are not sure on wiring or what the parts actually are then just ask 🙂)
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Awesome. That looks simple enough! 🙂 I did some research on this and it looks fairly straightforward. As far as wiring, Vi would be the positive lead from the power supply, Vo is the positive lead to the component right? Where do I connect the ground? The capacitors are not polarized correct? And will I need a heatsink for this?
That's it 🙂
The caps are non polarised in the drawing because they are small non polarised types such as polyester or ceramic. You could also use small electroylitics such as 10uf/35 or 63v. And yes, vin is the 24 volts. vout is a stable 12 volts. The ground lead goes to the amplifier ground preferably at the power supply.
If you try this then always confirm the output is correct first before connecting the components it feeds. The ground connection is the most important. If that breaks or is missing the output will rise to the input voltage. The caps should be mounted close to the regulator. If you are a neat solderer then you can mount miniature electrolytics on the leads themselves.
The caps are non polarised in the drawing because they are small non polarised types such as polyester or ceramic. You could also use small electroylitics such as 10uf/35 or 63v. And yes, vin is the 24 volts. vout is a stable 12 volts. The ground lead goes to the amplifier ground preferably at the power supply.
If you try this then always confirm the output is correct first before connecting the components it feeds. The ground connection is the most important. If that breaks or is missing the output will rise to the input voltage. The caps should be mounted close to the regulator. If you are a neat solderer then you can mount miniature electrolytics on the leads themselves.
Awesome. I think I got it. One last question. The ground on the bluetooth should be wired to chassis (star ground)? Or also wired to gnd on power supply? This bt unit says it is susceptible to ground loops but that is from the bt output(audio) signal ground right? As long as the signal outputs are shielded and grounded separately a ground loop isolator shouldn't be necessary?
The star is probably the best point, and that should be where all the critical grounds are referred back to anyway. Its always open to interpretation though and difficult to give hard and fast advice without actually having and seeing the whole set up for real.
Work to the star and only if problems arise would you look at alternatives for wiring it, which could be as simple as 10 ohm ground "isolation" resistor.
Work to the star and only if problems arise would you look at alternatives for wiring it, which could be as simple as 10 ohm ground "isolation" resistor.
Thank you so much for the help. That's pretty much the last thing I was wondering about with this project. Hopefully I can start purchasing parts soon!
You are welcome.
When you come to secure the regulator remember that the metal tab is electrically connected to ground. And it would be good to know the real current draw of the Bluetooth module... which I suspect will be quite low in practice. That figure of current draw will decide whether or not the regulator needs a little heatsink or not.
If you bolt the regulator to a metal case then you can also get "insulating kits". Do a google image search for "TO220 insulating kit" and you'll get the idea. That would isolate the regulator electrically from any metalwork and stop the "tab to ground" connectivity upsetting the grounding scheme. TO220 is just the name given to that style of device.
When you come to secure the regulator remember that the metal tab is electrically connected to ground. And it would be good to know the real current draw of the Bluetooth module... which I suspect will be quite low in practice. That figure of current draw will decide whether or not the regulator needs a little heatsink or not.
If you bolt the regulator to a metal case then you can also get "insulating kits". Do a google image search for "TO220 insulating kit" and you'll get the idea. That would isolate the regulator electrically from any metalwork and stop the "tab to ground" connectivity upsetting the grounding scheme. TO220 is just the name given to that style of device.
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