diyAudio Power Supply Circuit Board v3 illustrated build guide - Page 3 - diyAudio
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Old 6th November 2013, 03:39 AM   #21
delecoy is offline delecoy  United States
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What's gained by using the MUR3020 in the F5T power supply, as opposed to just 35A 200V rectifier blocks as in the F4's? Already have 8 Panasonic CE TUP 50V. If using the supply for an F4 first, any reason I couldn't just add the MUR3020 later?
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Old 6th November 2013, 05:04 AM   #22
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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If you make a good, big PSU with 50V caps it will work for either amp. Use discrete diodes, or the monolithic bridges, single or double - it doesn't matter.
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Old 23rd November 2013, 11:14 PM   #23
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Hello,

I am still at a beginner level, so please forgive me if I may ask a stupid question.

My question is related to the maximum filtering capacity. I have seen a recommendation from Mr. Pass at the F5Turbo manual for a CRC with 40uf, then 0.067Ohm resistor bank, and again 40uF capacitance per rail. The manual for the power supply recommends capacitors from 10000uF to 15000uF. May I ask, why is that and can I may use these capacitors:
ECO-S1VA223EA Panasonic | Mouser

many thanks,
tom
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Old 24th November 2013, 02:55 AM   #24
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Tom -

That's a good question, as there is some conflicting information depending where you look.

The easiest thing to do is look at the total capacitance in the PSU as drawn by the designer, and then see what parts you can buy similar to that.

As for the capacitors, are you building an F5Turbo? You will be better served by capacitors with a 50V rating. Such as these - ECO-S1HP183EA Panasonic | Mouser
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Old 26th December 2013, 10:53 PM   #25
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Hi,
Help please! Where would I add more capacitors to this board? I have two boards made with 8 in parallel each and would like to include them but I don't know where to connect. Need to use the caps I have on hand so larger value is not an option now. Building the Honey Badger- built my last amp 42yrs ago so I'm a little rusty

Max
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Old 5th January 2014, 09:43 AM   #26
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Can someone post an overhead shot of the fully assembled power supply with mains. I am a newbie and I am trying to wrap my head around why the mains are connecting to the filter section before the diode bridge in the photo with the monolithic bridge(please explain what this is).
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Old 5th January 2014, 02:18 PM   #27
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoneyBadger View Post
I am a newbie and I am trying to wrap my head around why the mains are connecting to the filter section before the diode bridge in the photo with the monolithic bridge (please explain what this is).
The "Mains" refer to the wires connected to the AC wall plug. The "Primaries" of the transformer connect to the mains. The transformer then transforms the wall voltage down to out transformer voltage, in a Pass amp something like 18V - 24V. The wires with the lower voltage (which is still AC, just lower voltage) are the "Secondaries"

The lower voltage AC needs to be turned into DC - diode bridges do this - the array of 4 discrete diodes with heatsinks (per channel, totaling 8) take the AC on the secondaries and make it DC, which is not particularly clean and smooth, which is what the filter section is for - The big capacitors and resistor banks will make the rippily DC into very smooth DC.

The "Monolithic bridges" are the little square packages that have 4 diodes in the one package, and take the place of the diode section of the PCB. They have 4 connections so AC goes in, and DC comes out.

In the below photo you can see, from left to right -

Transformer and transformer secondary wires, connected to;

(2) monolithic bridges, connected to;

Filter section of the PCB. (which has the diode section removed)

Click the image to open in full size.


This page has TONS of awesome info that will help you figure out your PSU - although it's specific to a chipamp, the Pass style PSU is essentially the same, just much bigger. Building a Gainclone chip amp power supply.
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Old 6th January 2014, 08:34 PM   #28
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Thanks for the clarification and thank you for the link. I did not realize those devices (monolithic bridges) actually contained diodes (they looked too small).

I realized the BoM is not intended for the HoneyBadger board at 63W. Is there any advantage in selecting diodes that are rated higher than the secondaries?
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Old 6th January 2014, 08:50 PM   #29
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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?? The normal diodes are 200V 30A. So don't worry about them.

What needs attention is the capacitor voltage rating. The need to be rated higher than the rail voltage. The voltage ratings in that general area are 50V, 63V, 80V, 100V. Higher voltage ratings have some advantages, but you will be trading away capacity for a given volume. More uF is generally better.
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Old 7th January 2014, 03:29 AM   #30
lhalha is offline lhalha  Australia
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A bit confused about these monolithic bridges - why show them if they don't ship with the PCB [edit - by which I mean, they are not part of the BOM for the power supply - you provide the bridge rectifier PCBs instead] ? Should I abandon the diyaudio rectifier PCBs and get these instead? They certainly look easier to work with than all the heat sinking, bolting etc (although admittedly still require heat sinking which you are achieving with the chassis in your pic).

As this is the build guide for the power supply that you guys sell, introducing new components that are not part of that kit / BOM is a bit counter-intuitive to me!

A final comment - from memory mine were shipped with the 2 filter PCBs already separated from each other, so the stuff in the guide above about not separating them for a lower noise PCB is not very helpful

Last edited by lhalha; 7th January 2014 at 03:31 AM. Reason: clarification
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