diyAudio Power Supply Circuit Board v3 illustrated build guide - Page 2 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Power Supplies

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 27th October 2013, 05:11 PM   #11
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
diyAudio Member
 
6L6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
The only thing the thermistor does is connect the starground to the metal of the chassis.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th October 2013, 05:14 PM   #12
rif is offline rif  United States
diyAudio Member
 
rif's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southern NJ
Sorry I wasn't clear. Should I jumper the grounds and then connect one wire to the star ground? Our not jumper them and use two wires to the star ground.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th October 2013, 05:18 PM   #13
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
diyAudio Member
 
6L6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
Ok, you totally lost me.
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th October 2013, 02:17 PM   #14
jdg123 is offline jdg123  United States
diyAudio Member
 
jdg123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Default grounding the star

Thanks 6L6, you are extremely patient with these questions.

As someone recently IN the confused state rif's question made sense to me; it is what I did!

I ran separate wires (4 actually) from the GNDs (euroblocks) of the power boards to the star ground point.

To get the thermistor into the act the star ground is physically short/shy of the GND bolt on the chassis, the thermistor is what connects the star ground TO the grounding bolt on the chassis.

How do you create a star ground short/shy of the ground bolt, in the air? I used a piece of copper suspended/insulated from the chassis. To connect ground wires to the copper I used bronze bolts going into euro barrier stips; the open ends then can receive all the many ground wires from everywhere on the PCBs. Ugly perhaps but thats why there is a case around all the working parts

I see and understand now one could take all the ground wires to the power board and then take a large single wire out from the power board through a thermistor and to a bolt on the chassis. 'Just didn't think of it at the time.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg wiring first try web.jpg (270.9 KB, 1259 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th October 2013, 02:33 PM   #15
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
diyAudio Member
 
6L6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
There are at least 14 places you can connect a wire to the GND portion of this PCB. Connect all your grounds there, and it is a starground.
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th October 2013, 11:31 PM   #16
Variac is offline Variac  United States
diyAudio Editor
 
Variac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
Also, the Faston "blade" connectors were mostly added to facilitate Stacking TWO boards if required to allow a LOT of caps

Last edited by Variac; 7th January 2014 at 06:48 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd November 2013, 08:23 PM   #17
delecoy is offline delecoy  United States
diyAudio Member
 
delecoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Default Power supply for F4 and F5T

I'm planning on building this power supply for an F4, but would also like to be able to use it for an F5T ( V1 or V2, different trafo of course ), should the inclination arise. I've already purchased capacitors rated for 50V, and am about to buy everything else. As the F5T power supply calls for MUR3020's as rectifiers, is there any drawback to using these from the get-go, knowing the supply will first be used for an F4? Should any other values, other than capacitors, be changed to facilitate this?
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th November 2013, 03:17 AM   #18
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
diyAudio Member
 
6L6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
No real difference, other than you need much more capacitance for an F5T. Look for the biggest (35mm diameter) caps you can find.

I would use the dual rectifiers as shown in the F4, not the single of the F5T.

If you build a good supply with 50V caps it will be fine for either amp.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th November 2013, 01:29 PM   #19
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Default Possible for Phono MM or for 45VDC ore some more ?

Is that design possible for my aged Phono MM and Pre needing 2x +/- 24V (hk Citation 17).
Other idea is to take it for my Citation Amp wich needs 2x +/- 47-49V,
Possible?
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th November 2013, 10:16 PM   #20
diyAudio Member
 
ticktock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Possible as long as you fit caps with sufficient voltage rating (and suitable transformer).
__________________
thanks
Blaue Leuchtdioden machen blöd. (hb)
sent from NSA monitored device
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Aleph J illustrated build guide 6L6 Pass Labs 1123 Yesterday 04:35 PM
V3 Universal Power Supply Circuit Board Jason The diyAudio Store 241 2nd November 2014 05:17 AM
An illustrated guide to building an F5 6L6 Pass Labs 742 15th October 2014 09:48 AM
diyAudio F5 Build Guide Jason The diyAudio Store 12 8th November 2013 05:28 PM
An illustrated guide for Aleph 60 builders PKI Pass Labs 58 12th October 2013 08:13 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:20 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2