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What diodes would you recommend?
What diodes would you recommend?
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Old 11th September 2013, 04:38 AM   #11
zilch0md is offline zilch0md
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Actually, I'm using a brand new battery. The player uses two PCM1704U-K DACs and has a choice of three interchangeable audio amplifiers for the headphone out. Power consumption varies with which headphone amplifier you install, but even the amp that's made for efficient IEMs pulls down the battery in about 7 to 8 hours. I use the Player's Line Out to an external amp, so that helps a little bit with the internal battery's play time, as does setting the LCD display to blank out after 15 seconds of no key presses.

Here's their web page: HiFiMAN

Thanks for helping me come to a very solid conclusion with this investigation. I'm OK with using two of the Anker Astro 3 battery packs because my headphone rig packs into a hard case, somewhat like a Pelican, but a different brand (HPRC). I wouldn't even try to carry the HM-801 around in my pocket or in one hand - it's too big. :-)

Here's what I'm using currently:

Click the image to open in full size.

96/24 capable Sony PCM-M10 > iBasso PB2 Pelican balanced amp (2.5 Wpc) > Toxic Cables Silver Poison Ohno-cast pure silver cables > Audeze LCD-2 ortho planar headphones

Click the image to open in full size.

Touch is shown for scale - I don't use it as a source.

I have to say, my first experience here at DIYaudio has been very beneficial thanks to you guys!

I'll come back and post some pictures here when I've finished assembling my new "transportable" headphone rig (which will use the HM-801 and a TBI Millenia MG3 (a 32Wpc speaker amp, with an impedance match for my 50-Ohm headphones, made by the amp's designer, that I'm powering with a 6-cell 3600 mAh LiPo battery that outputs 25.2V when fully charged.)

If only I knew what I was doing! :-)


Last edited by zilch0md; 11th September 2013 at 04:42 AM.
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Old 11th September 2013, 04:57 AM   #12
sofaspud is offline sofaspud  United States
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Antonio
I'm happy you're satisfied. It looks like you have a good solution to me.
That's a nice hp rig you've got there. If you'd've shown us Dre Beats I'd have taken it all back!
But you're doing just fine. Let us know how it turns out.
It is error only, and not truth, that shrinks from enquiry. - Thomas Paine
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Old 11th September 2013, 07:11 PM   #13
zilch0md is offline zilch0md
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
I've modified my prototype (using the 9V alkalines) such that the two batteries are now shorted as shown in this hand-drawn schematic. Now, all the voltages and polarities measured on the original AC adapter's connectors are emulated on my prototype, including the 18V, as shown here:

Click the image to open in full size.

Next, I have to order a second Anker Astro 3 to go with the one I already have.

Then I'm going to cut the cable off of the original AC adapter, preserving the double-barreled connector that goes into the HM-801. I'll wire up two power plugs where I made the cut so that they can be plugged directly into the two Anker Astro 3's while they are set for 9V output.

The shorting that serializes the two batteries (for 18V) as well as the crossover that puts one 9V battery cross the tips of the two connectors with the other 9V battery across the barrels, will all be done inline, under some heat shrink. That's the plan, anyway.


Thanks again!

More later...

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Old 12th September 2013, 02:16 PM   #14
zilch0md is offline zilch0md
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Click the image to open in full size.

This shows the original connector that can be emulated by the schematic above.
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