Well, that wouldn't be any fun.
I don't have access to the schematics. Perhaps better to leave it alone and find something else to tinker with.
I do need to complete the chassis and optimize wiring, after all...
It just seems to me like it would be more money/trouble than its worth. But I ain't your pa.
I have a more grown-up version of this basic idea. I use a computer power supply to run the tripath amp, I know everyone's going to freak out at that, but they are dirt cheap and have more current than you can shake a stick at.
I have a more grown-up version of this basic idea. I use a computer power supply to run the tripath amp, I know everyone's going to freak out at that, but they are dirt cheap and have more current than you can shake a stick at.
As I said, I have all sorts of components and the objective would be to do it for free. The "trouble" is what I enjoy about this stuff. That's the beauty of doing this as a hobbiest/hacker. It is not time wasted or lost.
Whatever works!
The big cap will be mounted on top of the chassis (not inside) with that bracket holding it in place like on some old tube amps. The larger transformer will be mounted on top also, and there will be a hole cut out of the top plate to let the tube poke through.
1) connect transformer to 6A bridge to big filter cap.
Then bridge to filter cap legs.
*Then*, using separate red and black cables, as thick as possible (1mm to 1.8 mm , "translate" to AWG if you wish) feed whatever needs to be fed 12V.
It's bad practice bringing DC "down" and sending charging pulses "up" through the same wires.
2) load that filter cap with a 4 ohms 10 to 20W resistor or with (maybe easier to find) 1 or 2 car lamps , about 24 to 32W total, to see what yout PSU *actually* delivers under load.
If it drops to around 13V (quite possible) I think you can feed your Tripath with it.
Please google and post TA2020 datsheet to check.
Then bridge to filter cap legs.
*Then*, using separate red and black cables, as thick as possible (1mm to 1.8 mm , "translate" to AWG if you wish) feed whatever needs to be fed 12V.
It's bad practice bringing DC "down" and sending charging pulses "up" through the same wires.
2) load that filter cap with a 4 ohms 10 to 20W resistor or with (maybe easier to find) 1 or 2 car lamps , about 24 to 32W total, to see what yout PSU *actually* delivers under load.
If it drops to around 13V (quite possible) I think you can feed your Tripath with it.
Please google and post TA2020 datsheet to check.
I'll have to go over this a few times before I understand exactly what to do, but thanks for the reply. And yes, the TA2020 can take up to 14.6v (actually, absolute maximum is 16v, but safe limit is 14.6).
Just one problem. Music isn't a sine-wave. He will be drawing less current than max most of the time. If the line voltage is just a bit high and the amplifier not overdriven, the 16V max on the datasheet will be exceeded.
Good point. I'll be typically drawing much less than max. In fact, the amp is already getting a bit over 13 volts from the existing DC supply because it isn't loading it enough. Still safe, but not safe if that was 16v.
Fine enough.
Didn't know Voltage spec was *that* tight, that's why I asked.
*MY* favorite "car amp" chip is TDA2005, I have sold hundreds of 12V 7A battery powered Guitar/Mic amplifiers powered by them.
And although meant for a 12.6V battery, they work up to 18V, can stand 28V and short peaks of 40V, go figure.
Looks like often "old tech" is better
http://www.ozitronics.com/data/tda2005.pdf
Here's one of my biamplified TDA2005 + TDA2003 "FAHEY Callejero" amplifiers:
Didn't know Voltage spec was *that* tight, that's why I asked.
*MY* favorite "car amp" chip is TDA2005, I have sold hundreds of 12V 7A battery powered Guitar/Mic amplifiers powered by them.
And although meant for a 12.6V battery, they work up to 18V, can stand 28V and short peaks of 40V, go figure.
Looks like often "old tech" is better
http://www.ozitronics.com/data/tda2005.pdf
Here's one of my biamplified TDA2005 + TDA2003 "FAHEY Callejero" amplifiers:
Well, I played with some bridge rectifiers, smoothing caps, and diodes yesterday after work. It was a lot of fun. For a while.
I put a couple of 1000uF 25v caps parallel to the DC pins on the bridge rectifier and then connected the "12VAC" (closer to 13.5VAC) supply to the AC pins. Got 18.66VDC on my meter. I have a bunch of 12A diodes that I strung together, probably 8 of them in total - still wasn't enough to get the voltage down below 16VDC and it was a PITA to keep all the diodes connected for the test (I was using the "nut and bolt" end of one diode to "clamp" the pointy end of the next diode, and so on).
I could have added more diodes, as I am fairly sure there are dozens more in my box of goodies, but at one point I grew bored with it and realized that 20 diodes (of that size) in series is just comical no matter what the application.
I put a couple of 1000uF 25v caps parallel to the DC pins on the bridge rectifier and then connected the "12VAC" (closer to 13.5VAC) supply to the AC pins. Got 18.66VDC on my meter. I have a bunch of 12A diodes that I strung together, probably 8 of them in total - still wasn't enough to get the voltage down below 16VDC and it was a PITA to keep all the diodes connected for the test (I was using the "nut and bolt" end of one diode to "clamp" the pointy end of the next diode, and so on).
I could have added more diodes, as I am fairly sure there are dozens more in my box of goodies, but at one point I grew bored with it and realized that 20 diodes (of that size) in series is just comical no matter what the application.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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