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Old 15th March 2013, 07:35 AM   #1
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Default How to wire AC neon pilot light?

I want to have a pilot light on my isolation transformer so that I know if its on or not at a glance.I have a 90v neon light and a 270k ohm resistor to wire in series.It is a 240vAC to 110vAC transformer to power a 110v Sansui amplifier here in Australia where we have 240v The transformer didn't come with a switch at all,it is 6amps on the primary side so Ive got a 12amp,250v,DPDT for it.The switch shows continuity on the pins between 1 & 4 & 3 & 6. if I switch the toggle the other way its continuous between 2 & 5 & 3 & 6.The fuse is that black tag thing on the wiring block in the photo(brown wire is live)Any Ideas on how I can go about this,I keep tripping the fuses out and I'm sick of standing back when I turn it on with a broom stick LOL
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Old 15th March 2013, 07:58 AM   #2
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The lamp and ballast resistor should hook up easily between the hot and neutral lines.
Something is not right with that switch, though. You're showing continuity between 3 & 6 in both positions. Do you have a part number for it?
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Old 16th March 2013, 05:49 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofaspud View Post
The lamp and ballast resistor should hook up easily between the hot and neutral lines.
Something is not right with that switch, though. You're showing continuity between 3 & 6 in both positions. Do you have a part number for it?
I have a bridge soldered in between 2 & 5 and 3 & 6. I forgot to mention that,you see I originally asked this question on (All about Circuits) and I was advised to do that but when I mentioned the possible use of an LED the moderator locked the thread and chided me for not reading the fine print on 240v and LEDs?I think that site must be for children,run by children. Anyway I have the switch working by soldering the live wire to 3 & 6 and another to 2 & 5 that goes back to the connection/fuse block.The pilot light works as well but only when the switch is in the off position when I turn the switch on the light goes off? When I bought the neon light the catalog said that it is to be wired in series with a 270k ohm resistor,so Ive wired it the same as the live wire on the switch between 2 & 5 and 3 & 6 Its got me beat where the neon pins go? Just a thought,Do these neon lights have a built in diode and I have it soldered in backwards?

Last edited by redrooster; 16th March 2013 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 16th March 2013, 06:21 AM   #4
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What you have is a double pole, double throw switch.
I would wire it so that it switches both active and neutral.
Firstly, remove the wire bridges.
Then connect the active to 2 and the neutral to 5 (you can reverse them, it doesn't matter)
The transformer is wired to either 1 and 4 OR 3 and 6 depending on which direction of the switch throw you want to be ON.
The neon goes to the same two terminals and no, there is no internal diode.
Put the fuse in series with the active on the mains side of the switch.

Last edited by Bibliophile; 16th March 2013 at 06:28 AM.
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Old 16th March 2013, 06:33 AM   #5
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So you've made the DPDT switch into a SPDT switch? You've decided not to provide the part number? We're dealing with mains voltages here, so while some other forum may be overly cautious, some degree of care must be taken.
I have only a guess as to the pinout of the switch, especially the modified pinout, so I can't say for sure what's right or what's wrong. I wouldn't proceed without better certainty if the switch was in my hands, so I'm sure not going to tell you to.
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Old 17th March 2013, 03:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bibliophile View Post
What you have is a double pole, double throw switch.
I would wire it so that it switches both active and neutral.
Firstly, remove the wire bridges.
Then connect the active to 2 and the neutral to 5 (you can reverse them, it doesn't matter)
The transformer is wired to either 1 and 4 OR 3 and 6 depending on which direction of the switch throw you want to be ON.
The neon goes to the same two terminals and no, there is no internal diode.
Put the fuse in series with the active on the mains side of the switch.
OK I have continuity between 1 & 4 and 2 & 5 with the switch one way and 2 & 5 and 3 & 6 the other way. I cant have the fuse on the mains side of the switch because the fuse is built into the wire connection block and it will be a hassle to change it, I thought I had better let you know that before I did anything. Do I still wire it how you said?
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Old 17th March 2013, 03:50 PM   #7
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Are you sure ??

2 & 5 seem to be always connected, regardless of the operation of the switch and the other connections just don't make any sense.

Can you draw a little diagram as your description of the connectivity doesn't match any mains switch that I have ever met.

In my little drawing of a standard DPDT switch you would expect 3 to connect to 1. And 4 to connect to 2 in one position.

3 would connect to 5. And 4 would connect to 6 in the other position.
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Last edited by KatieandDad; 17th March 2013 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 17th March 2013, 04:28 PM   #8
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Mains fuse should always come first.
That is the only way that all downstream faults can be isolated if some item shorts.
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Old 17th March 2013, 04:30 PM   #9
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The Mains Fuse always comes first.
The Mains Fuse rating must be LOWER than the smallest cable fed by that mains electricity.
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Old 17th March 2013, 07:26 PM   #10
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I agree with K&D, there's something strange about that switch.
Can you give us a part or catalogue number and where you bought it from? Looks like sofaspuds concerns were justified.
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