How would a full wave bridge rectifier made from naked MUR860's stack up against a standard 35A potted Full Wave Bridge Rectifier?
There are some question before that can be answered . 1. how big is the current requirement . 2. how big the first cap. 3. What curcuit do you want to power.How would a full wave bridge rectifier made from naked MUR860's stack up against a standard 35A potted Full Wave Bridge Rectifier?
trySomeone had suggested I use Schottky Rectifiers instead of the MUR860.
Would something like this be more suitable?
STPS30100ST STPS30100ST STMicroelectronics | Mouser
That has a 100 volt version .
Isn't 25V a little too close to the supply voltage for comfort? Especially before the R.I will be using Cornell Dubliner SLP 15000uF 25V 105deg. in a 2-R-3 per rail.
Do not use Schottky diodes in this application -- they aren't meant for it, and it will bite you (Very low breakdown voltages, and the fast switching speed will cause noise). I suggest simply going with a good old fashioned potted can -- they are indestructible, match thermally inside due to their construction, and are heatsinkable, unlike individual diodes.
Until your mains supply runs over its rating. Mine consistently runs at 15% above here.18V secondary would give about 24.5V after rectifier voltage drop.
But Pass must know what he's doing.
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