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#21 |
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Clueless
diyAudio Member
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This is the first LT regulator I have built so I was following the schematic and building instructions to the letter, I guess it's a case of MJ says jump...
The supply chain is transformer - bridge - reservoir - cm choke - regulator. It must work though, so it will be interesting to make it stable with the chokes and find out where the construction mistake are.
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Broke solderer with delusions of grandeur |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Did he give a PCB design too? Exact placement of components can affect stray capacitance and hence stability.
Personally, I can't quite see the point of a CM choke there unless your mains is particularly dirty. Better to put a filter on the primary side. |
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#23 |
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Clueless
diyAudio Member
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No it was just a schematic with some notes on construction.
I just moved house and the mains has been an issue so built a little CLC mains filter which helped a lot. So maybe this is overkill...
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Broke solderer with delusions of grandeur |
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#24 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hangzhou - Marco Polo's 'most beautiful city'. 700yrs is a long time though...
Blog Entries: 62
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Quote:
If you try AndrewT's suggestion of turning the regs into CCS, I've found 317s can go unstable in those configurations too.
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When a measure becomes a target, it ceases to be a good measure. C.A.E. Goodhart |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Eindhoven, The Netherlands
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The application hints in the datasheet say that when caps are used on adjust and/or output that bypassing at the input is needed to keep the regulator stable. Abraxalito's explanation seems plausible since you have none between choke and input and you do have 10uF on the adjust.
Personally, I'd just leave out the CM choke. If you don't like the idea of current peaks powering up cold heaters and the CCS configuration might be prone to instability, then perhaps the slow turn on config I linked to in my previous post is the best solution. Here's a video showing the slowly rising output voltage of a slow turn on regulator. From the comment below the video: "Slow turn on - adjustable voltage regulator - 1.5v to 35v - 1.5A ideal for tube filament supply 6.3v", I' wouldn't be surprised if it's also based on an LM317. Last edited by jitter; 7th November 2012 at 07:33 AM. |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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I have found that 'over-improving' a circuit can make it behave worse, or stop it operating at all. Despite knowing this, I still sometimes do it!
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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a CCS 317 is just two components: 317 + resistor.
There is no connection to ground. Therefore no need for decoupling of either the input or the output. There is no complex circuit. It just works. The Tube/valve Members have used them and there are some good reports for this style of heater drive. BUT !!!! each CCS can only drive heaters with the same current requirement. The rules on heater to cathode voltage differential still apply. Last edited by AndrewT; 7th November 2012 at 11:06 AM. |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: North Sea
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That's my pick, too. Those regulators are happy with something like 100nF from input and output to ground, physically close to the IC itself. Did you do this?
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Regards, Lasse |
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#29 |
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Clueless
diyAudio Member
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There are different heater current requirements here so I guess a CCS is not an option this time.
I have a 1uF tant cap on the output as recommended in the datasheet, but actually I have only a 10nF and not 100nF on the input, so maybe this is the reason it is misbehaving. Regulator circuits of this type are quite new to me, so learning a lot. Thanks for the help. Edit: ditched the chokes, if it works without them...
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Broke solderer with delusions of grandeur Last edited by CSlee; 7th November 2012 at 03:21 PM. |
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
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Did you get your LM317's from China?
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